Wemotec F-16 Falcon Build Instructions

The Wemotec F-16C Fighting Falcon kit as shown with major assenblies fitted The model comes well packed from the manufaturer Parts are shown that come with the kit The two halves of the intake tube are made from carbon fiber The fuselage and wings are molded as one piece, keeping the assembly lightweight Side view of the scale shape of the fuselage Front view shown Rear view of pre-installed formers Bag of hardware is shown that is included with the kit The HW 620 86mm custom Midifan from Wemotec is included in the kit Contents of the fan assembly are shown The fan housing is molded from carbon fiber to keep it light weight and strong Shown are the basic parts from the fan kit that are required to assemble it for this model Construction begins with the power plant assembly. Install the shaft adapter for the fan over your motor shaft Apply Loktite to the shaft adapter set screw and install it in the adapter Make sure there is enough clearance on the adapter so the fan does not rub on the housing. A good starting point is shown. Install plugs if you wish on the motor wires Install sockets on your ESC to match the motor Plugs are also installe don the power wires for the ESC. This allows you to interchange motors and ESC's if necessary Loktite is applied to the motor threads only!!! Do Not apply blue Loktite to the screws as it will touch the housing and can disolve the housing plastic. Clean up any excess Loktite Install the motor in the housing Install the retaining screws in the motor to mount it to the housing Insure the motor is centered in the assembly Use a tool to balance your fan assmebly. Small pieces of electrical tape can be placed inside the fan outer hub and CA'ed in place to adjust balance Install the fan rotor on the shaft adapter Install the supplied washer, then the aluminum nut A slot can be cut into the shaft to allow for tightening. Be sure to cover the motor anf fan with a cloth so metal dust from cutting doesn't contaminate the assembly Use a screwdriver to hold the shaft in the slot you cut, then tighten the nut with a wrench Install the hub if desired and tighten with the supplied screw Sand the outer lips of both halves of the carbon fiber intake duct Halves are shown preped and ready to be glued Apply a piece of masking tape that was made 3 layers thick along the lenth of the seam Install the second half, using th masking to hold it in place Apply epoxy with a small brush along the seam lip Clamp the assembly until the eopxy sets Remove the clamps once the epoxy sets Remove the tape from the inside of the duct Repeat the procedure for the other side, applying a 3-layered tape strip tot he inside, then epoxy along the seam Clamp the second half and allow the epoxy to set Remove the clamps and tape The tape prevents overspill of epoxy in the inside of the intake Use a dremel and cutting wheel to remove most of the lip Remove the lip from the other side Cut off as much of the lip as you can Sand the remaining area until it si nearly flush Prepare a 2" strip of 5oz fiberglass cloth by soaking it in resin Apply the cloth along the seam, then remove all excess and allow it to set Apply a second strip to the other seam along the bottom Trim the rear of the Intake Cover as shown Trim the top of the cover along the molding lines Remove the trimmed fiberglass and sand Install the fiberglass intake on the fuselage and check for fit, then trim as necessary Use tape to hold the intake in position Use a pencil to transfer the inside pattern of the fuselage to the top of the intake Pattern is now drawn on the intake Outline the pattern in marker so it is easier to see Use a Drenel and cutting wheel to rought cut the marked area Remove the center piece Sand the edges to a smooth finish, then remove marks with alcohol and a paper towel Install the carbon fiber intake duct in the fuselage Check for fit at the rear former Install the intake cover and make sure it does not bind on the duct Check the fit of the cover Make sure the edge of the inner carbon fiber duct is flush against the bottom inside ridge of the fiberglass intake cover Make a mark on the bottom of the cover 100mm from the front Make a 1/16" ply plate 40mm x 40mm and an inside 1/16" plate 30mm x 40mm. Note the grain orientation...this is important Epoxy the two halves together, making sure the inner place is centered Use a punch to make a mark for drilling at the 100mm line you drew earlier Drill the hole with a 5/64" bit Rough up the inside area for the towkhook plate with some 60 grit sandpaper Make a towhook as shown using 2-56 steel rod Mark a drill hole with a punch centered on the two ply pieces and 10mm from the front edge Drill the hole for the towhook Use a dremel to slightly slot the area for the towhook. Cut about 1/32" deep, just enough to prevent the hook from twisting Clean up the slot with a knife Use coarse sandpaper to rough up the hook on the short side Insert the hook in the ply Use epoxy to glue the hook in place Slightly taper the outside edges to the contour of the intake, then apply epoxy as shown Install the towhook through the hole in the intake and allow the epoxy to set. Note the orientation of the plate with the 10mm of spacing at the front Use a pair of pliers to bend the hook into shape Mark the hook to a length of 3/4" and remove the excess. Round the end with sandpaper Check the clearance of your towhook ring, then set the assembly aside Use a dremel to cut out the notches in the tail area of the fuselage A file and sandpaper can be used to smooth the area A saw can also be used to cut and remove the excess fiberglass Use a small saw to cuth the Tail Brake pieces in half Sand and round the edges Use a drill to open up the holes for the tailerons on both sides Custom cut the tail of the brake so it fits arouns the taileron shaft, then apply epoxy to the area Apply epoxy to the shaft lip and install flush to the fuselage Make sure it is recessed completely and even with the outside. Custom fit the second brake assembly Apply epoxy to the hole and brake, then glue it in place Tape the piece to hold it straight until the glue cures Install a Taileron, then mark a cut line with a saw Remove just enough of the shaft so there is enoguh for the wheel collar to hold Sand the end and remove all ridges Install the taileron and wheel collar, then mark the outer locations of the wheel collar on the fuselage with masking tape Use a file to notch the area, so the collar is far enough away from the exhaust area so it doesn't rub Fine sand the area Install the supplied washer Install the Wheel collar, holding the taileron to the fuselage side. Remove and sand the shaft until it is flush with the inner part of the collar Final fitting completed, you will have space between the collar and Exhaust nozzle Notch the other taileron shaft Shorten the shaft the same as the first Make sure to remove any ridges on the inside of the taileron Sand the shaft and round the end at the edges Install the taileron and wheel collar, then use masking to mark the outer sides of the collar Once again, use a file to notch the wheel collar area. It should be wide enough to allow the wheel collar to turn without binding. Install the second washer Install the wheel collar over the shaft and tighten Taileron mounting completed Drill three holes for the motor to ESC wires as shown Solder ends to the 12ga wires that will plug into the motor A piece of 1/64" ply is cut 3/4" wide to make an airfoil for the wires The ply is inserted into the heat shrink and just fits Solder plugs for the ESC side to the wires Slide the airfoil over the wires as shown Run the wires through the Carbon fiber motor cover that was supplied with the motor assembly Slide pieces of heat shrink over the motor wires Install the wires on the motor connectors Slide the heatshrink in position, then use a heat gun to shrink the tubing in place Apply some thick CA to the lip of the motor cover Install the cover in the motor housing 1/2" tape is applied to the rear of the motor housing to build up the area around the former Remove the outer spacer tape An Exhaust Duct is made from clear mylar Temporarily tape up the motor wires and run them down through the fan so they are out of the wya, then shape the duct Tape the Nozzle flush to the rear of the fuselage. Make sure the mylar duct fits well to the rear of the Exhaust Nozzle Trim away any excess material with a razor Duct should be flush to the rear and note that the wheel collars should clear the nozzle Use 1" strips of packing tape to seal up the inside of the duct Tape the outside of the duct as well with a 1" wide strip Measure the distance from the end of the fuselage to the rear of the motor cover Make amark on the duct at this distance. Note you will cut rearward from this mark for the airfoil to exit Make a small plate from 1/64" ply for the airfoil as shown Mark the area with tape, then cut the airfoil at the thick side of the duct, where it overlapped. Glue the plate in place with CA or epoxy, then another piece of 2" wide packing tape can be used to seal the plate to the duct The airfoil was removed and the bottom was tapered rearward to the andgle of the tapered mylar exhaust duct Install the airfoil, then run the wires through the duct Test fit the assembly and adjust as necessary. Shown is a fitted and assembled tail section Solder to 4mm sockets to the battery wires for the ESC Plug the wires into the ESC Use heat shrink to hold the wires in place and prevent them from coming loose Solder a Deans Ultra plug to the other end for your battery, or use any other plug that you use for your power needs Make an airfoil from hardwood about 3/16" thick and 3/4" wide. An old piece of wooden Helicopter tail rotor blade was used and cut to shape as shown. It already had a good airfoil shape to start and was long enough to act as a spacer for the intake duct. CAREFULLY drill a hole straight through the center length of the airfoil with a 5/64" bit Drill a hole about 3/8" - 1/2" from the front lip of the intake duct Position the duct, then drill a mark on the other side, using the airfoil as a guide , which will hlp you keep it visually centered. Sand the length of the airfoil spacer so it matches the contour of the intake duct and fits flush ont he top and bottom. it shoudl also fit without deforming the shape/opening of the intake Use a hand drill to finish, drilling through the duct and fudelage Hole throught he fuselage is shown. This will also help with alignment during final assembly and gluing and also strengthen the ductwork A small file was used to slightly open the hole so 2-56 threaded rod can pass through The airfoil is covered with CA to seal the wood A 2-56 nut is soldered flush to one end of the allthread rod The rod is installe dthrough the duct into the fuselage, then marked to trim. Allow enough length for spacers and lock washer/nut Install the fiberglass intake. Align it and tape the intake in place Drill through the hole in the fuselage and into the intake Remove the intake and file the hole so the 2-56 rod fits Hole shown drilled through only the top of the fiberglass intake and through both sides of the carbon fiber duct JR DS3421 metal gear servos are used on the tailerons. These are the ONLY recommended servos as their low profile makes them the only ones that fit Use a receiver or servo tester to center the servo, then install the horn Trim away the unused sides from the horn Trim the mount from the wire side that is closest to the servo output gear Center the servo, install the horn and install the retaining screw Poaition the servo in the fuselage, then mark the former for wire clearance Mark the side of the fuselage 30mm in front of the center of the tailron shaft Mark the location with a punch Drill a pilot hole a tthe mark Use a saw to remove some of the former on the inside so the wire passes through while the servo fits flush against the inside wall of the former Center the servo and check the outside hole Pivot the servo to the end side of the fuselage and make a mark Draw a line showing the movement area of the srvo horn Use a punch to mark the end points Drill each end point, then carve between them This was the most difficult part of the build. The former is right in the middle of where the servo arm should be and the slot needed enlarged enough to remove the former pieces, from the outer wall to about 3/8" deep. Cutting and grinding with a dremel router made the job easier New tailron pushrods were made from 4-40 rod Cut the rod to length Drill the outer hole for each rod Install a top nut flush to the inner side of the threads and rod Install a nylock nut on the other side Center the servo and reposition the horn Install each horn screw A 1/2" wide x 3/8" thick hardwood block is cut 3/4" wide ans screwed to the servo Screws on the bottom side of the servo are shown Apply epoxy to the top of the block and the side of the servo by the wire, then install it in the fuselage. NOTE... pay close attention to alignment and check for correct position before gluing the servo The servo must be positioned so the pushrod is perpendicular to the fuselage Important: Not only must it be aligned to the fuselage, the servo must run at a parallel downward angle to the taileron. You will need to install a taileron and check, then hold the servo in place while the glue sets. For these reasons, 5 minute epoxy is recommended Servo is shown with wire side glued to inside of former and the wood block is glued to the outer wall slot (located behind servo) Another Important Note! Both sides of the fuselage were not even...one side had the former closer to the taileron shaft hole than the other. You should space the shorter side with a piece of ply between the inside of the former and servo Ply spacer was needed on the short side, where the former was closer to the taileron shaft hole. This insured that both servo pushrods would be equally spaced from their respective taileron shaft holes The second servo is glued into place, the same as the first The intake duct was taped and primed, then painted prior to completing the build Photo shows intake primed first, then sanded Intake painted with gloss white The spacer airfoil was also painted The rear of the inside area was cleaned with an alcohol pad Apply two layers of servo tape to your receiver Install your receiver battery or BEC as shown. A 2/3AAA 400mah NiMH pach was used for this model and it weighs about the same as a U-BEC Make wedges for the servos on the top and bottom by cutting a couple pieces of 3/16" thick balsa to shape Apply epoxy to each wedge Install them in place on one servo Apply epoxy to the second wedge Install the wedge on the bottom for the other servo Cut two more wedges for the top Apply epoxy and install each of the two balsa wedges on top of the servos Rough up the edge of the Vertical Stab Sand the shelf for the vertical stab Make a mark in the stab well 3" from the rear of the model. This will be for the antenna. Note that this is only one method of installing the antenna Transfer the mark from the fuselage to the bottom of the stab Mark the location with a punch Drill a 1/8" hole for the antenna tube Mark the rear center of the fin as shown Drill a 1/8" hole for the antenna tubing Cut about 9" of antenna tubing Bend a small pushrod wire so it curves down and passes through the bottom hole Slightly round the end of the antenna tube so it passes through easily Check the antenna tubing run and make sure you have enough length for your guide rod Apply some epoxy in the rear hole with a toothpick Install the antenna, working it to the bottom center of the stab using the wire as a guide. A piece of paper towel along with a couple drops of alcohol can be pushed torugh to remove any epoxy the inside of the tube Allow the epoxy to set Trim the tubing flush with the end of the stab Antenna tube installation completed Use a punch to mark a hole for the antenna tube exit Drill a 3/16" hole for the tube The oversized hole will allow for easier installation Check the fit and make sure the tube clears the hole A small plate was made from 1/16" ply to hold the ESC. The ESC is mounted to the plate and tied in place A piece of servo tape is added to the bottom of the ply under the ESC Apply epoxy to the other half of the plate Install the ESC inside the fuselage as shown A wood dowel can be used to hold the ply plate to the wing sheeting until the epoxy cures A 18" servo extender is wrapped on a balun and should be about 12" long when finished Feed the extension through the hole from the rear and plug it into the ESC and use heat shrink to insure it does not come apart Make sure the servo wire run is on the opposite side of the fuselage, away from the ESC wires Tie wrap the excess servo wire from the right side servo A Deans charge jack is installed on the radio switch A switch mounting board is cut from 1/8" ply Transfer the shape of the switch to the board Also transfer the shape of the charge jack to the board Pattern is shown drawn on the ply Use a chisel Exacto to cut the slot for the charge jack Check the fit of the jack Transfer the switch plate slot to a piece of 1/32" ply Cut the switch hole in the plate with a chisel knife Drill the mounting holes for the switch Cut the mount plate for the switch Check the switch for fit Cut a spacer for the charge jack from 1/8" ply Glue the ply spacer to the board over the jack hole as shown Install the jack and drill two small holes for mounting screws Countersink the other side of the holes Install 1/8" ply side plates to the switch Position the switch and draw a line at the front edge of the faceplate for the switch Draw a second line 3/32" in front of the first Cut a slot here so a 2-56 sized pushrod will fit through the slot Install the plate in the fuselage Measure from the front of the plate to the rear of the fuselage Draw a locator line on the fuselage Place the plate with its front at the mark, then transfer the slot pattern to the fuselage Install the plate in the fuselage, then use a push pin to make sure you are centered Pin is shown exiting the slot Place strips of masking tape over the wood on both sides of the slot and transparent tape over the slot underneath, then apply candle wax to the slot and scrape away the excess Remove the tape from both sides. Apply a piece of masking across the board, covering the slot and jack. Trace the slot and jack position on the tape, then remov the tape and set aside. This pattern will be used larter Apply epoxy to the frame of the switch Install the switch in place and be sure not to cover the slot Install the retaining screws for the charge jack Apply epoxy to the board, but not in the jack area position the switch and glue in place inside the fuselage Tie wrap the ESC wire as shown leaving some slack in the wire Apply your pattern tape ove rthe location for the switch plate Slowly cut the slot from the outside of the fuselage and cut the charge jack from the pattern Use a file to smooth out the slot Plug the battery into the switch and cover with heat shrink so it will not unplug Make sure all four servo wires will reach to the right side of the fuselage Install a piece of servo tape to the bottom of your receiver Plug the servo and switch wires into the receiver Remove the cover from the servo tape Install the receiver in place as shown. Neatly dress the wires so they are out of the way Apply masking around the edges of the fuselage to catch any excess eopxy spillover when gluing the vertical stab in place Make a jig to hold the fuselage so alignment of the vertical stab could be checked. Dry fith the stab; the one in the picture was a perfect fit when held flat against the top of the fuselage slot Apply epoxy to the bottom of the vertical stab Install the stab on the fuselage Check alignment and adjust if necessary Vertical Stab installtion completed Run the antenna wire through the stab tube as shown Pull the antenna wire from the rear. LEave just a little slack inside and tape the wire with masking to the fuselage wall Roll up the wire and tape it to the side of the fuselage to keep it out of the way Pass the three ESC wires through the holes in the rear Run the wires though the hole in the side of the fuselage and forward to the ESC Install a piece of heatshrink over each wire, then plug them in to the ESC. This was most easily accomplished by inserting one had through the rear opening and one through the front, then pluging the wires together Install the heatshrink over each connection to keep them from pulling apart ESC Wire installation completed Install the intake duct in place and check for final fit Insert the all thread rod to make sure the duct is aligned with the fuselage Remove the duct, then install masking on the inside rear Tape the ESC servo wire out of the way, then apply epoxy to top of the first former Apply epoxy to the next former as shown Install the duct in place, making sure the hole for the allthread is aligned. Apply a thick bead of epoxy at the joint as shown. You can push down on the duct to get epoxy under the fuselage area at this location Clean out the wax from the slot hole in the plywood. Check thsat you can use a rod from the slot to turn the receiver switch off and on without binding Clean any epoxy from the lip of the duct at the rear. A filet of epoxy can be applied at this rear joint install the fan asembly in the fuselage Align the fan as shown Apply silicon sealer to the rear of the housing and rear former joint. You can flex the housing away from the former with the dispenser tip to apply silicon to this area Clean up any excess silicon Position the exhaust tube over the rear of the fan housing Check the fit by installing the exhaust nozzle Rough up the landing areas of the intake cover Rough up the rear edge as shown and clean up any dust Rough up the fuselage area where the cover will mount Install the alltread rod and spacer Apply masking to the glue area to catch excess resin Apply masking to the cover area to catch excess resin Apply masking inside the intake to keep it clean Position the spacer slightly off to one side so the rod doesn't go through the fuselage hole Apply epoxy to the intake as shown, as well as the cover Install the cover; you will have to flex it open to get it over the allthread rod Once the cover hole is aligned with the intake and fuselage hole, push the rod through. Make sure the airfoil is pointing straight. Clamp the lower joint until the epoxy sets Install the washer and nut over the threaded rod and tighten Tape the cover in position until the epoxy sets Intake Cover installation completed Apply a couple drops of CA to the threads and nut Install a Elevon so it butts against the servo control rod. Make a mark at the front of the rod Push the servo all the way down and make another mark at the rear of the rod Use a file to open up a slot as shown clean up the marker marks with alcohol Mark the second elevon the same as the first A piece of 1/2" x 1/16" thick Carbon Fiber rod is used to replace the oversized and unuseable round rod guides that were supplied in the kit. Draw a center line down the carbon rod Use a drill to make several small 5/64" holes down the center Make sure you leave at least 1/4" ov material on each side Cut, then file the slot and check the fit over the control rod The fit should be smooth without any vertical play along the entire 1/2" long slot Plate contruction completed Tape the first carbon plate over the rod and use it as a pattern for a second plate Drill several holes down the second plate Carefully cut the second slot, then file and fit Take your time and make sure it is a smooth and slop free fit Cut the second plate to length Rough up the glue side of each plate with 60 grit sandpaper Drill holes and cut the slot in the second Elevon Apply servo tape to the back of the two carbon plates. Do not apply to the glue side Remove the backing, The servo tape is used to adhere to the T-Pin that's used to install the plates Cut the excess servo tape from each slot Apply epoxy mixed with fiberglass mil to the slot top and bottom Apply epoxy to the plate, then place a T-Pin through the slot to the stick back servo tape underneath Install the plate in the slot usint the homemade T-Pin, which should be wide enough to allow the layer of epoxy to remain on the plate. Turn the face downward and use the "T" part of the pin to pull the plate to the wall Remove the T-Pin and clean up the excess epoxy Check and align the plate with the Elevon. Make sure it is even using the seam of the elevon for alignment. A piece of 4-40 rod makes a good checking tool First plate is shown glued in place Apply epoxy mix to the second plate and elevon opening Glue the plate in place the same as the first and use the rod for alignment to the seams on the elevon Remove any excess epoxy Install the washer over each Elevon Install each Elevon on the fuselage as shown Install the wheel collars and tighten them down with the set screw pointing straight down Elevon Installation is completed Slightly sand the cockpit front and rear if necessary Sand the fuselage area for a good cockpit fit Ckeck the fit of the cockpit. Note that there should be a lip at the top rear Use some trim tape along the seam of the canopy. The seam can be diffucult to see and the tape will help Make sure you cut oversized so there is enough material for a custom fit Draw a line 1" from the front of the Cockpit Draw a line 1" from the rear of the Cockpit Use masking tape to pull the front sides of the cockpit frame in so they fit the fuselage sides Repeat at the rear and use masking tape to pull the rear sides of the cockpit frame in so they fit the fuselage sides. Once adjusted, cut two 1/2" wide x 1/8" ply strips long enough to hold the sides in place and sand them to fit, then epoxy them in at the 1" lines you drew earlier Measure the center of the cockpit front and mark it Cockpit frame sides pulled in to the correct shape Drill a pilot hole at the cockpit front center mark Tape the cockpit in place, centered on the fuselage. Drill a 1/8" hole by hand through the cockpit and fuselage Round the end of a piece of 1/8" diameter wooden dowel. Cut to a length of 3/4" Push the dowel through the hole in the front of the cockpit and glue the rear with epoxy A Test Lead plug is used for the rear retension of the canopy. An 8-32 nut fits the threads on the read of the lead plug Glue a 1/16" support plate in the rear of the cockpit as shown Drill a hole through the center so the threads of the plug can pass Install the plug through the hole and use a nut to retain it on top. The nut can be covered with a piece of balsa, painted as part of the cockpit Make a plate from 1/8" ply and the rear piece from 3/8" x 3/8" hardwood, with an angled front end made from 3/16" balsa. The hardwood block will need to be shortened in height to fit Drill a hole through the center of the plate, leaving a small gap between the hole and the rear hardwood support to compensate for the fuselage wall thickness Apply epoxy to the hardwood retainer Install the plate in place as shown, using the Cockpit to insure sis-to-side alignment. Check the fit of the Cockpit pin in the rear, then glue the tube in place when satisfied with the fit Cut the canopy so the front fits the cockpit frame Use tape to mark the location of the rear lip through the window, then cut away the excess material Check the fit of the Cockpit and fine sand as necessary Tape the Cockpit in place to the fuselage Apply masking tape to the Canopy as shown Use Canopy Glue such as RC56 to glue the Canopy to the Cockpit Install the Canopy and used the tape to hold the Canopy to the frame until the glue dries Canopy and Cockpit installation completed Paint you model, then a detailed Cockpit can be made to add some realism Drill a hole at the center on each side of the Exhaust cone Install #2 cap screws to retain the exhaust Set the Elevator Up throw to a minimum of 16mm; note that more is better with this model and the setting shown was set to 18mm Set the Elevator Down throw to 14mm Set Aileron Up and Down throw to 16mm CG is measured from the rear of the wing trailing edge. Make balance marks so you can set CG to 210mm Battery trays and velcro were added to ease battery installation and hold them in place Install the batteries and check CG. Everything should be below the canopy cover edge of the fuselage so the canopy will sit flush This F-16C was painted in Japan's color scheme after their Technical Research and Development Institute F-16 FSX/F2 scale jet aircraft Top Side view of the model Front view of the model Side view showing markings on the intake sides Rear view of the F-16

A clean and smooth intake is shown with custom support

The Wemotec F-16 Falcon 86mm EDF Jet

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