Bungee Launcher Pedal Build Instructions

1 - A simple Bungee Pedal launcher can be made for parts readily available at your local hardware store such as Lowes or Home Depot. Nearly all the parts are shown 2 - Required hardware includes the Spring Hinges as shown, Stainless Steel rustproof harware for the bolts to include three 8-32 x 1" countersink bolts, three 8-32 nylock nuts, a 1/4" x 2 1/2" bolt, a 1/4" "T" nut, a 1/4" fender washer (not shown) and a 1/4" nut. In addition, a 1" chrome ring, a piece of 3/4" x 1 1/2" long heat shrink (not shown) and some 3mm nylon cord round off the necessary supplies 3 - The pedal is made from a single 24" long piece of hardwood, in this case we used Oak. It is a 1/2 x 3 that is 2' long 4 - Construction begins with the wood piece. Make a mark 11" from one end of the oak board CG. 5 - Draw a vertical line at the 11" mark 6 - Use a saw to cut the board into two pieces. One will be 11" long and one will be around 13" long 7 - Use a small 1/2" diameter cap or coin to draw a 1/4 round at the corners of each board 8 - Use a sander or block to round the corners as shown 9 - Slightly round the edges on each board to prevent splintering 10 - Fine sand both boards, top, bottom ends and sides 11 - Make a mark on the long board at 5 7/8" from one end 12 - Draw a vertical line using a ruler or square at this mark 13 - Center the hinge's two inside holes over the mark with the hinge positioned as shown, mounting side of the hinge to the right and the 5 7/8" side of the board to the left. Draw circles in the hinge holes to transfer their location to the wood. IMPORTANT: Make sure the spring is positioned perpendicular at the location 14 - Use a punch to mark the hole locations 15 - Drill only the two end holes with a 5/32" drill. A drill press is recommended to keep the holes straight and centered 16 - You need to open up the holes a bit for the 8-32 bolts, using the drill as shown 17 - Install the two end bolts 18 - Check once again that the spring is vertical. If not, you can slightly elongate one of the holes to straighten the hinge 19 - Keep the hinge straight and drill the center hole 20 - The holes can be countersunk on the bottom for the bolts 21 - Install the bolts in each hole 22 - Use nuts to hold the hinge in place and centered 23 - Place the short piece over the long board, with the end flush as shown on the measured side (the 5 7/8" marked side) 24 - Use a tie wrap to temporarily secure the end of the boards 25 - Flip an hold the hinge up, then set the short board over it and while holding it together, use another tie wrap to keep it in place. Align the end of the two boards flush and keep the sides of each board even with eachother, then transfer the hinge location to the short board, outlining it with a pencil Remove the short board by cutting the tie wraps and be careful of the rebounding spring hinge. Remove the hinge from the long board and place the correct short board side over the drawing 27 - Make a mark at each hole location 28 - Mark each location center with a punch 29 - A small 3/32" hole is drilled at each screw location. The drill is set so it does not go all the way through the wood, leaving the last 1/16" or so undrilled. This will keep the top of the board looking clean 30 - Make a mark on the end of the long board, at the short 5 7/8" side. The mark is 1 1/4" from the end 31 - Draw a center line over the mark you just made 32 - Use a punch to mark the location 33 - Drill a 1/4" hole at the center. If you wish to countersink the location of the "T" nut, then use a 3/4" forstner and cut about 1/16" deep at the center bottom of the board. Make sure you countersink the bottom side 34 - Open the hole to the width of your 1/4" "T" nut, which may be around 5/16" - 3/8" depending on the "T" nut you purchase 35 - Transfer the location of the 1/4" hole from the long board to the short board. Make sure you mark the correct end of the short board 36 - Use a 5/8" Forstner to bore a hole in the short board at the location you marked 37 - On the opposite end of the long board, make two marks at 1 3/4" from the end as shown 38 - Measure in 5/8" from one side of the board to make the cross mark 39 - Make another mark 5/8" from the other side of the long board 40 - Use a punch to mark the first location for drilling 41 - Use the punch to finish marking the second location 42 - A 5/32" drill is used to bore a hole through the long board at each of the locations you marked 43 - Use a hobby knife and sandpaper to slightly round the exit areas of each hole on both the top and bottom of the board. This is so there are not any sharp edges to cut into the nylon cord 44 - Both boards have been prepared, drilled and sanded and are ready for assembly 45 - Mark the 1/4" bolt 2 1/8" from the threaded end. Note that Stainless Steel hardware was used in the assembly to prevent rusting 46 - Cut the head off the bolt at the mark as shown 47 - Grind and sand the cut area to round it 48 - Hammer the "T" nut into the bottom of the long board until it is flush 49 - Install the large fender washer, then the lock washer and nut over the bolt/pin as shown. Screw the bolt pin into the "T" nut 50 - Use a wrench to tighten the bolt pin 51 - Place a screw included in the pack of hinges along the side of the short board. Mark each screw to be cut so they will just be clear of punching through the top of the board 52 - Cut each screw to shorten them and check the length so they are shorter than the board thickness 53 - Install the hinge using the screws you just cut. Tighten them down all the way and keep the hinge spring centered 54 - Slide a ruler under the hinge to assist with the next step to install the long board 55 - Install the three 8-32 bolts through the bottom of the long board 56 - Position both boards, and while holding the spring, install the long board so its bolts run through the hinge 57 - Hold the pieces together and start the nylock nuts as shown, holding them with one hand while turning the screwdriver with the other hand 58 - Photo shows nylock nuts in position 59 - Make sure the two boards are lined up with eachother and then tighten all three bolts 60 - With the bolts tightened and the boards centered, the 1/4" bolt pin should be centered in the hole as shown 61 - When depressed, the pedal lifts up and the hole should clear the pin by about 1/4" 62 - Cut a piece of 3/4" heatshrink to a length of 1 1/2" 63 - Cut a piece of the 3.2mm nylon cord to a length of at least 26" 64 - Use a lighter to melt and seal each end, which will keep the cord from fraying 65 - Install the cord in one of the two rear holes from the top 66 - Loop the cord from the bottom to the second hole and thread back through 67 - From the top, pull each cord and adjust until they are the same length 68 - Slide the heatshrink over both cords, then slide the 1" chrome ring over both cords 69 - Fold the cord ends over and tie them in a knot as shown, passing the ring through the cord loops 70 - Pull and tighten the knot so it is tight. You can dab it if you wish with a bit of epoxy 71 - Cut some of the excess off the ends, leaving about 1/2" exposed. Re-seal them with a lighter to prevent fraying 72 - Stretch and slide the heat shrink over the knot as shown 73 - Use a heat gun to seal the knot 74 - You can add a thin layer of epoxy to the bottom of the long board to waterproof it from the ground during use 75 - The completed pedal assembly is shown. The aircraft release loop is placed over the 1/4" pin 76 - When depressed, the pedal pushes the release loop off the pin 77 - A 12" galvanized nail with a matching fender washer can be installed through the chrome ring and is used to stake down the rear of the pedal. This completes the assembly of the Bungee Release Pedal This Website and all documents herin are Copyright © 2012 www.scalerocketry.com - All rights reserved.