K&A MIG-15 Fagot Build Instructions - Part 2

6oz glass cloth is taped to the duct as shown Medium CA is used down the side to anchor the cloth for glassing A good glassing resin such as West Systems is used to glass the cloth to the intake The intake is wrapped in a plastic sheet and left to set The sheet is removed, the end caps are removed and the ends are trimmed while the epoxy has set but is still soft. Keep an eye on the inside for epoxy dripping, which actually seaped through pinholes in the thin intake tube material during the glassing process. Keep it clean with denatured alcohol and a paper towel so you don't have these bumps and drips to deal with later Once completely dry, remove the inside packing tape. A piece of 1/2" wide masking is installed down the center of the fan housing and the intake is installed flush to one end of the tape and held temporarilly in place with packing tape or electrical tape The intake side needed some sanding to make it flush The intake tube is sanded flush to the fuselage front The forward former is installed next and you may have to sand down the center so the intake tube fits from front to rear. It is best to do this before gluing the former in place. Be sure to take off a little at a time and deepen the center. You can use the template to insure it stays round at the bottom The fuselage is roughed up with 60 grit sandpaper about 1" wide, centered over the front former area The former is tack glued using 5 minute epoxy, with the rear of the former on the marks you made earlier. Then it is glued and glassed in place with 1" wide x 6 1/2" wide strips of glass cloth. Crosscut your cloth at 45 degrees from the weave so it can accordion easily and be shaped to fit around the curved area. Clean up any excess epoxy For the MF480, one end of the exhaust tube is lightly trimmed to straighten the cut from the manufacturer. If you are using a larger fan, omit this and the next several steps and proceed to glassing The smaller end is taped flush using masking tape A piece of masking is used to "space" the duct away from the fan housing. This is to allow room for a smaller plastic fim exhaust duct to be installed later and is only for the Minifan 480. For the larger fans, you can omit this step For the MF480, the duct is installed on the housing and taped tight. Then a mark is made on the unevenly cut side of the duct at the overlapped area The other uneven side of the duct is cut away from the mark The piece is shown removed The tube is held flush at the ends with masking tape. If necessary, lightly sand the two edges so they are flush all the way down the tube Packing tape is used on the inside to hold the two edges flush A wooden dowel is used to push the packing tape down on the inside where you cannot reach The excess tape is removed with a razor The outside masking tape is removed and a couple of layers of masking are used on the inside ends for drips The tube is taped to your working surface so it is easier to glass An area is sanded about 3/4" wide on each side of the seam Glass cloth shown is cut to about 1 1/2" Epoxy resin is applied to the seam area of the exhaust tube The cloth is layed over the resin area and pressed down Resin is brushed on the top of the cloth to make sure it is saturated The excess resin is removed with a spreader and the tube is left to set The seam was sanded to remove excess epoxy and keep it light A ring is made from 1/16" ply to fit in the end of the fiberglass tube and the inside is cut to 55mm diameter A piece of clear 5 mil Dura Lar used as an inner thrust tube for the Minifan is cut oversized, then inserted in the glass tube at the fan side and trimmed flush to the end Masking tape is used to hold the inner liner flush with the fan end The ply ring is installed and the inner thrust tube is cut flush with the fiberglass tube at the exhaust end Apply masking to hold the tube in place, then cut a 1" wide piece of clear packing tape and seal the tube seams inside and out Inner thrust tube assembly completed A mark is made 1/2" from the edge of the tube 3/8" Washers on each side of the plastic make cutting a hole easy Hole is shown cut for ESC wires Wires are inserted through the hole The tube is slid 1/2" over the fan housing and taped in place Fan assembly and inner thrust tube completed The fiberglass thrust tube is marked to slot it for the ESC wires The slot is 7/8" deep and 1/2" wide and rounded at the edges The fan asembly and inner thrust tube slide into the outer glass thrust tube The tail end of the fuselage should be checked for round and sanded straight if necessary Tail is shown sanded and ready Location marks are made 4 3/4" from the tail for the rear former Fine sand the former until it fits flush 60 grit sandpaper taped to your finger makes it easy to sand the inside of the fuselage area for the rear former Once sanded, clean the dust off with alcohol and a towel Thirty minute epoxy was used to glue the former in place and a fillet mix of epoxy and fiberglass mil was applied to the joint Coat four of the 1/8" thick x 1/2" ply squares with CA on one side Sand the CA side and round the corners on the squares Drill a 1/8" hole in two of the squares and a 3/16" hole in the other two squares Photo shows all four squares prepared and ready to use as retainers The 3/16" and 1/8" wood dowels are pressed into the wing to make a guide hole. Keep the dowels square to the root Epoxy is applied to each hole using a toothpick The wood dowels are inserted and kept square with 1" protruding The dowels for the second wing are installed Photo shows all wing dowels installed The wing root is roughed up with 60 grit sandpaper Wing root is ready to final prep for wing installation Drill holes as shown with a 1/8" bit to allow for better glue adhesion The wing spar is also drilled as shown The outside of the fuselage and wings are covered with masking tape to catch the overflow when gluing Wing and Fuselage root shown ready to epoxy Wing was temporarily installed and checked while the fuselage is squared up. The wing root when flush to the fuselage was in the correct position Clear epoxy is applied to the wing root and left to soak in...do not apply epoxy to the wood dowels Epoxy is thickened with fiberglass mil and spreaded thick as shown The forward and rear wood dowel holes are cleaned with a Q-tip The wing is installed on the fuselage The wing is pressed down in place and excess epoxy is cleaned with denatured alcohol and a paper towel Make sure the wing is flush to both the root and the bottom of the fuselage. You can slide the ply squares over the wood dowels on the inside to help hold the wing to the fuselage Remove the tape from the wing and fuselage before the glue sets Allow some time for the epoxy to set Once the epoxy has set but is still soft, you can check the rivots that were formed at the drill points. Use your finger to round them out and slightly flatten them for a better hold as shown Apply epoxy to the other fuselage root and wing Clean the wood dowel holes out as shown The wing is installed on the fuselage Seat the wing, clean up the excess epoxy and remove the tape as with the first wing, then allow some time for the glue to set Both wings are shown installed The wing seams are filled with a lightweight body filler and sanded to shape A piece of 60 grit sandpaper is used to rough up the fuselage area for glassing. Sand about a 1" wide area from front to back Strips of 2-5oz cloth are cut 2" wide in preparation for glassing Epoxy is applied to the side of the fuselage and wing area The glass cloth is placed in position and excess epoxy is removed Wing to fuselage area shown glassed and allowed to set up The bottom of the wing area is glassed the same way Strips of glass cloth are applied to the area. I used 2 oz fiberglass cloth on the top for a nicer finish and 5oz cloth as shown on the bottom for strength The bottom of the wing is shown glassed. Sand and blend the seams The horizontal stab and elevator pieces are shown in the pic Thin CA is applied to the leading edge of the Elevator The Elevator is installed centered over the edge of the Stab and flush with the inside The elevator is mounted to the second stab in the same manner A piece of paper is taped to the vertical stab at the Elevator location and the airfoil shape is traced out as shown The shape is cut out from the tracing A center line is marked down the leading edge of each Flying Stab A center line is drawn down the leading edge at the marks Center line is drawn on the second stab as shown The cut out pattern is used to trace the airfoil shape to each stab inner root The sanding board is used to form the airfoil shape and taper the tail to 1/16" thick for each of the two Stabs The leading and trailing edge has been tapered as shown Both Stabs are aligned on top of one another and the inner rear edge is shaped to align itself with the root (top right), then the outer side is shaped with a sanding block as shown (left) A center line is drawn down the outer edge of each stab A ruler is used to measure 6 1/2" from the inside root Lines are drawn as shown on each stab A sanding block is used to taper the stab outer tips in the same way the wing tips were shaped. Sand from the line that was drawn to the tip making an even bevel The second stab was tapered as shown Two pieces of 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth were cut to overlap and cover both sides of each stab. Use medium CA to anchor the leading edge as shown and wipe away any excess glue while pressing the cloth down Epoxy finishing resin is applied to the inside root, leading outer and trailing edges, then to one side of the stab. The cloth is applied and stretched to remove wrinkles The other side of the stab is glassed in the same manner A thin sheet of plastic is used to help seal the stab and remove the excess resin without disturbing cloth position The plastic sheet is applied to the other side of the stab and the excess resin is removed. Once done, the plastic edges are trimmed as shown and the stab is placed in a phonebook while the resin sets The second stab is glassed in the same manner as the first It is shown placed in plastic. Insert into a phonebook while the resin sets Horizontal Stabs are sanded and ready to install Make a center line on the stabs, around 2 3/16" from the front Make a starting divot in the center of each Stab Center mark shown in the pic Mark the same distance, in this case 2 3/16", from the front tip of the stab molding on the vertical fin Make a vertical center mark Take great care and drill dead center on the mark The hole is opened up with a 5/32" drill bit Install a piece of 5/32" OD brass tube through both holes and check alignment. If it is off, you may have to file the holes so both sides are the same Seal one side of the two remaining 1/8" x 1/2" ply squares with CA Mark punch holes in the pieces at the center for drilling Drill a 5/32" hole in each of the two ply squares A piece of 1/8" wire is marked and cut to 3" long Two pieces of 5/32" brass tube are marked and cut to 1 1/4" long The brass tube is inserted into the vertical fin area and marked to cut so it will remain flush to the sides of the fin. The two ply plates are positioned and checked for center, then tacked in place with epoxy The piece for the fin is cut to length The brass tube is installed and checked to make sure it is flush on each side. Sand as necessary for a good fit Photo shows the brass tube and plates in place The two 1 1/4" brass tubes should be roughed up on the outside with sandpaper before gluing in place The 1/8" rod and tubes are test fit for free movement A drill is run through the center of the fin, drilling the pivot hole in the stab. Hold the stab flush to the side of the fin and perpendicular to the fin while drilling The Horizontal Stabs are test fit and position is checked Check position of the Stabs from the rear to make sure they are parallel to the wings and perpendicular to the tail With the 1/8" wire installed, make a mark 1 5/8" from the front of the wire forward to mark the front position for the actuator wire Measure and make a mark 1/8" back from the front line you made for the area that needs cut Use a sharp knife or cutting tool to open the area, then fin shape it with a file or small router bit The slotted area is shown shaped and ready for installation A piece of 1/8" brass tube is used for the actuator assembly and should appear squared up to the sides of the vertical fin as shown Mark and cut a piece of 3/32" wire (4-40 push rod) to 2" in length This pushrod is used as the actuator for the Elevator A piece of 1/8" brass tube is marked and cut to a length of 1" long. Make two of these tubes The 3/32" rod and two 1/8" diameter brass rods are ready to install Slide the brass tubes over each end and install the assembly through the slots. Holding the rod against the front on both sides so it is kept straight, mark on the front part of each Stab to indicate their position Make a center mark on each Stab Use a punch to start a hole. Keep it centered on the airfoil and between the two fin marks you made when the rod was installed Use a 1/8" drill to bore the holes for the brass tubes. Keep it centered and at the same angle as your two lines and be careful to not overdrill Both Stabs have been drilled and the brass tubes installed. Check the front and rear of the Stabs to make sure they are even with eachother. If one side is lower than the other, you may have to enlarge one hole to lower the brass tube A "T-Bar" Elevator Control Rod will need to be made using the 2" rod you cut. There are two methods of doing this and both are included with this construction manual. The first and prefered method is to use a 4-40 threaded rod end for the "T" as shown below Shown is a closeup of the heavy duty rod clevis. One side is open for a bolt to pass while the other side is threaded Install a 4-40 threaded push rod on the clevis to help hold it and drill the threaded clevis arm with a 3/32" bit so the rod will fit The 3/32" x 2" rod and clevis are dipped in soldering flux, then the rod is inserted and centered in the clevis Use a high quality silver solder for the job and fill the area with solder between the two clevis arms. Make sure the "T" is squared and perpendicular to the control rod Clean up the assembly with a micro wire wheel and check for a strong joint. This is the prefered method of making a T-Bar as it is adjustable using the 4-40 threaded rod If you do not have a pushrod assembly, you can use a piece of 1/8" brass tubing instead. Cut a piece to 3/4" in length Flatten the first 1/4" of the tubing using pliers Using a 3/32" drill, make a hole in the center of the flattened area A center line is marked on the control rod The control rod is inserted through the hole while the rest of the brass tube is slipped over a 4-40 rod. Make sure the brass and rods are clean and add soldering flux before installing The assembly is soldered at the T and the pushrod joints. Be sure to keep the control rod perpendicular to the pushrod The T-Bar on the left only weighs one more gram than the one on the right and is adjustable. However, the one on the right is simpler and cheaper to make, so it's your choice. The key to success is to use a good solder and flux, otherwise you will never get the joint strong The servo for the Elevator should be metal gear, as others have been known to strip in as few as a couple flights. One end of the "T" Rod is inserted into the slot, then the center is spread so the other side will fit into it's slot Control shown in place The Elevator servo is centered with the receiver or a servo tester Trim off one side of the servo horn The other side of the horn is shortened to the first hole, then installed on the servo The servo area is cleaned with Denatured alcohol Silicone rubber is applied evenly to one side of the servo A piece of wood keeps the vertical spread apart so the servo can be placed in its location and the control rod is used to align and square up the servo Install the servo to one side of the fuselage as shown Tape up one of the holes for the flying stab main shaft Install the brass tube for the shaft Use thick CA to glue one side of the tube to the inside ply plate Glue the other side of the tube with thick CA Find the 1/8" x 3/16" balsa strip that is about 18" long. Cut the strip into two pieces Make a mark inside the fuselage about 5/8" from the top of the vertical stab Use tape on the first stick to help hold it in place Tape the stick flush along the inside edge of the stab and down to the 5/8" mark. Pivot the stick and apply thick CA along its length Clamp the stick in place, flush with the end of the stab until the glue sets Remove the excess balsa from the end of the stick Apply thick CA to the other stick and install on the other side of the inner stab wall, flush with the end Clamp the stick in place until the glue sets Use a scrap piece of 1/4" thick balsa and outline the stab top pattern, then cut the piece to fit Apply some thick CA to the area as shown Install the balsa filler piece in the top of the stab Lightly sand the rear of the stab to remove any exposed balsa, but do not sand into the fiberglass Mark the inside center of the rudder Mark the center rear of the rudder Draw a vertical line down the middle of the ruddder end Apply several strips of masking tape to the rear of the vertical stab Using thick CA, apply a bead down both wood stab spars Position the rudder in place, making sure it is centered at both the top and bottom Use the masking tape to hold the rudder in place while the glue dries Rudder installation completed Use a surface saw to cut away the larger portion of balsa. Be careful to not cut too much Apply masking tape to the fiberglass stab so you don't sand into it and the use a 100 grit block for the basic shaping Use a saw to cut down the other side of the rudder Tape should be used so the fiberglass surface doesn't get marred. Shape the other side of the rudder Remove the tape and blend the rudder even with the stab Cut a 3/32" thick strip of basswood to 10" long Use thick CA and cap the trailing edge of the rudder with the basswood Cap shown in place Remove the excess spar from both the top and bottom Use a fine sanding block to shape the trailing edge of the rudder Wipe the rudder down with a tac cloth to prepare it for fiberglassing. Rudder shaping shown completed Cuta piece of 1/2oz glass cloth long enough to wrap around the fin Tape off the Stab as shown to catch excess epoxy Use thick CA to anchor the cloth at the trailing edge of the rudder Smooth out the CA evenly and allow it to dry Apply a small ammount of epoxy at the cloth seam on both sides Use a brush to apply epoxy to the cloth. Glass both sides Use a spreader to remove excess epoxy from the sides of the rudder Apply a sheet of plasic to the rudder with the spreader, removing excess epoxy. Clean up the tape with alcohol Once the epoxy sets, make a light cut only through the glass cloth at the point where tape begins. Remove the tape from the stab Sand and blend the glassed rudder to the stab, making sure not to oversand. Fine sand with 400 grit Rudder and Stab fiberglassing shown completed Mig-15 basic airframe assembly completed and ready for paint Carefully rough cut the canopy frame outside the marked lines to remove the window area Use a sanding drum to shape each rail Fine sand the canopy to a finish as shown Install the fiberglass frame over the clear canopy While holding the canopy against the frma, mark the bottom edge of the clear canopy for cutting Use a pair of scissors to trim the canopy Test fit and recut if necessary, but do not remove too much of the canopy Use alcohol to clean the canopy marks Fine sand the canopy edges Cockpit frmae and canopy completed Position the cockpit frame so it is centered and flush with the front of the fuselage and tape it in place Use a 1/8" drill from the front to drill a dowel hole throght the frame and fudelage Round the tip of the 1/8" dowel included in the kit Install the pin with the round side out to help is slide easier into the fuselage Use thick CA to glue the dowel in place Carefully cut out the intake Use 1/2" masking tape and apply around the circumference of the plastic intake Cut along the tape edge for an even cut all the way around the intake Sand the bottom on a flat surface Sand with finer sandpaper to a good finish Cut the center evenly, leaving a finished intake as shown Measure 3 1/8" from the wing seam on the fuselage. Make several marks along the length of the wing Trim the patterns for the wing fences from the paper Cut eight 3/32" strips from one of the pieces of plastic fence material Transfer the fence patterns to the remaining four plastic sheets Cut out each fence as shown Place a strip with its outside along the pencil marks at 3 1/8" from the fuselage seam Use masking tape in the rear so it does not shift backward, then tape the strip in place flip the strip over and apply epoxy with a toothpick along the strip Flip the strip back over and press it down to squeeze out excess epoxy, which is cleaned up with alcohol Tape the strip in place until the glue sets Trim the ends with a razor Test fit the inside fence Sand the fence until it is a good fit on the wing Finish sand the fence, rounding the top of the fence with fine sandpaper MEasure and make several marks from the first fence strip 3" past its location Tape the second strip in place Trim the excess tape flush to the outside of the strip Sand the inside of the strip to rough it up Apply epoxy to the strip Flip the strip over, then clean excess epoxy and tape in place. Make sure it remains straight with a ruler Trim the ends flush A ruler can be used to scrape away the excess soft epoxy before it completely hardens Tape the second strip in place, using a fence for proper spacing Tape the fence in place and trim the tape flush to the inside of the slot Test fit the fence Flip the strip over while it is still taped and rough it up Apply epoxy to the strip Flip the strip over and press down. clean the puside with alcohol and the excess epoxy from the inside using a left over piece of fence material Tape the strip in place until the glue sets Remove the tape Check again the inside slot and clean if necessary Apply glue along the slot as shown. Remove any spill over wiht alcohol and a paper towel Install the fence Check it with a ruler for straightness. Make sure it is perpendicular to the wing surface Let the glue set, then remove all tape PRepare the second outside fence strip as shown Rough it up, then apply glue along the strip, then flip it over and clean up Install the second shorter fence the same as the first Measure the second wing 3 1/8" from the fuselage joint Tape a strip in place with the marks on the outside Trim the tape flush to the outside. Glue the strip in place like the first side Glue the second strip to the fuselage, making sure it remains straight and tape it in position Trim the ends Trim the front Clean up any excess soft epoxy Apply epoxy to the slot Clean up excess epoxy Install the larger fence, maaking sure it remains straight and perpendiculaer Measure 3" from the fence Tape a strip on the inside of the marks Cut the tape flush as shown Flip the strip up, rough it with sandpaper and apply epoxy Flip it over and clean up excess, then pate it in place until the epoxy sets Check for straightness, then install the second strip and last fence as previously described Fence installation shown completed Paint your model before final assembly. The model chosen in the photo was the "Red Tail" MIG-15 Install a 12" servo extender wire on the Elevator sevo lead and use heatshrink to retain it. Run the lead forward into the cockpit area Install the fiberglass thrust tube in the model from the rear. Make sure the Elevator servo lead runs through the top of the center former and the tube engages the center former Push away the rear of the thrust tube into the fuselage and run a bead of clear silicon sealer around the edge. Wipe away the excess, push the thrust tube rearward, flush with the end of the fuselage and allow the sealer to dry Run a bead of medium CA about 1/4" away from the exit. Install the thrust ring 1/4" away from the end Use your finger to make a fillet of CA against the back of the thrust ring Install the fan assembly and clear thrust tube from the front of the fuselage Press and seat the fan in the rear outer fiberglass thrust tube. It should be a tight fit The clear thrust tube should be centered in the rear thrust ring as shown If necessary, install 6" extender wires on each Aileron servo. It was not necessary for the Hitec HS-81's Use a thin strip of Carbon Fiber to pull the Aileron lead through the wing and into the fuselage compartment. Use servo tape on the back of the servo and install each servo in the wings Cut a 3/16" wide slot in each servo door for the horn to exit Remove the balsa from the servo area of each door so the door sits flush Drill 1/16" holes 1/8" away from each corner of the doors and into the wing mounts, then open up the holes in each door so #2 button head screws will slip through. Install the doors with #2 x 3/8" button head screws Connect an Aileron "Y" adapter to the servo leads and use heatshrink to retain them Prepare each Robart Pin Hinge by installing a piece of thin plastic over the hinges as shown Apply epoxy to the hinge holes in the Ailerons with a toothpick Install each hinge so they are seated fully and pivot correctly. Clean up any excess and make sure the hinges pivot without binding. Remove the plastic once the epoxy sets Install frsh plastic on each pin hinge. Apply eposy to the wing holes and install the Ailerons. Clean up excess epoxy and remove the plastic once the glue sets Install a clevis on each of two 2-56 pushrods Clip the clevis in the second hole from the Aileron Use a receiver or servo tester to center the servo Clamp the Aileron in a neutral position and mark the rod at the servo horn outer hole location Make a Z-bend at the marked location as shown Drill the servo horn outer hole with a 5/64" bit so the wire will fit Trim the Aileron horn as shown, then sand and shape, rounding the ends Install the pushrod assembly and adjust the clevis as needed Repeat the procedure and install the pushrod for the second Aileron Cut a piece of 1/4" thick ply or two laminated pieces of 1/8" ply to 1 3/4" x 1 1/4". Drill a hole 5/8" from the front of the plate and cut a recess 3/4" long for the towhook wire Use a piece of 2-56 wire 3" long and bend a right angle 3/4" long at one end. Check the fit in the ply, then apply epoxy and install the wire in the hole Add a bead of epoxy across the top of the wire as shown Measure 6" back from the front of the fuselage and mark a center location Drill a hole for the towhook wire install the plate and use a pencil to mark the area of the towhook plate Install a thick layer of epoxy and fiberglass mil in the bottom area of the fuselage Apply epoxy to the bottom of the towhook plate and install the plate. Remove excess epoxy, allowing for a fillet around the plate Cover the fuselage with tape so you don't mar the finish and bend the towhook to shape The towhook should have a slight down angle to it Install the intake tube from the front of the fuselage so that about 1/8" extends past the front. Apply a bead of Silicon around this joint Apply a thick bead of silicon sealer to the inside edge of the intake nozzle, then install it centered on the fuselage. Allow the silicon to set overnite Rough up the small forward brass tubes for the Elevators with sandpaper, leaving about 3/8" smooth on one end Rough up the larger pivot brass tubes with sandpaper Apply epoxy to the forward holes and install the small brass tubes so about 1/4" extends past each Elevator Install the 1/8" pivot rod in the center Apply epoxy to one Elevator hole and install the brass tube so about 1/32"-1/16" remains past the surface to act as a bearing. Install the Elevator and check for clearance. You want the joint close without binding Repeat the procedure for the second Elevator and mount it in place. Tension on the front steering rods will hold them on and you can remove the Elevators and put a very slight forward bend in each of the forward rods to adjust tension Sand the outer edge of the canopy about 1/8" wide with 100 grit sandpaper to rough it up Apply a bead of RC-56 canopy glue around the canopy and across the back Install the canopy and let it dry. You can use some weights to make sure it is seated well in the frame Cut a piece of 1/4" square hardwood about 1 1/2" long. Drill a small hole down the center Epoxy the piece in place at the rear of the canopy as shown, flush with the bottom Drill an outer hole in the canopy using the hardwood as a guide Install the canopy, make sure it is centered, then drill a hole down through the fuselage lip with a hand drill Open the hole so a #4 hex head screw can be installed, then mount the canopy on the fuselage and install the #4 hex head retaining screw. This leaves the fuselage outside surface smooth and free of screw heads To build a cockpit, you will need to make a floor first that will clear the batteries. Cut a piece of paper to the size of the canopy area. You can hold it up to the light to rough trace it Transfer the pattern to a piece of 1/32" ply and cut it from the sheet Sand and shape the floor so it fits in the recess and sits on the top edges of the canopy You can build a semi scale cockpit if you wish from scrap wood A Cockpit adds realism to your model, however, if you decide on a 3S setup, you may need to paint the canopy black and leave the cockpit area open for battery clearance Install a full range receiver and plug in your Aileron, Elevator and ESC wires. You can tie wrap and dress them so they are out of the way Use servo tape or velcro to attach the receiver to the side wall of the model as shown. Route your antenna out the rear or drill a small exit hole in the side of the fuselage under the wing. Be sure to range test your antenna location before flying Two 3300 2S 20C Lipos are installed so they saddle both sides of the forward cockpit area. The batteries are run in series for a 4S setup For battery retention, cut two double sided velcro straps to a length of 4 1/2" The straps will be installed as shown. You are viewing the bottom side of the batteries that go face down Install a battery and push it forward, then install a piece of 1" velcro square on the center of the intake. Fold the strap over to the other side for the second battery Install a second velcro square under the rear strap. You could also run a velcro strip down the entire center top of the intake to allow for adjusting battery position. The straps will keep the battery pack in its side slot, while also preventing it from shifting backward during flight Install the second battery and then the canopy, making sure the batteries do not bind against the bottom of the canopy. With the batteries shown or similar ones, this will not be a problem Make a mark for the CG location on each wing at 3 5/8" from the rear root. Adjust your battery position so the plane balances at CG Set Aileron throws at 1/8" up and 3/16" down for initial settings, then add more throw if desired after your first flight Set Elevator throw at 3/16" up and down for the first flight, then add more if necessary Front view of the intake shows a clean and simple design Right side view of the MIG-15 Top view of the MIG-15 Rear view of the MIG-15 The K&A MIG-15 Fagot EDF Jet This Website and all documents herin are Copyright © 2012 www.scalerocketry.com - All rights reserved.