K&A MIG-15 Fagot Build Instructions - Part 1

01 - K&A Models MIG-15 EDF as it comes from Markos at Warbirds-RC 02 - The MIG was well packed from the maufacturer and Warbirds-RC. It comes in two versions, the Basic version or the Deluxe Pre-Primed version with Pre-sheeted wings, clear canopy and more for a small additional charge. The Deluxe version is shown below and worth it 03 - Pre-Sheeted wings come with the Deluxe Pre-Primed Kit and are well worth the few extra dollars 04 - You also get a clear canopy with the Primed kit 05 - The lumber that comes with the model is of very good quality 06 - Construction begins with the wings. As these wings were presheeted, several steps were eliminated. A 1/4" x 1/2" balsa strip is sanded flush with the correct angle at the wing tip leading edge. Make sure you hold the strip centered across the leading edge of the wing 07 - Hole the tip flush and make a mark on the balsa strip slightly longer than the inside root of the wing 08 - Cut the excess from the balsa strip at the mark you made 09 - Photo shows the strip flush with the wing tip to the left and centered down the leading edge 10 - The second wing is prepared by sanding the tip angle on the 1/4" x 1/2" balsa strip 11 - Strip must be kept centered while sanding and when gluing 12 - The second strip is marked about 1/4" from the root of the wing 13 - The excess is removed from the balsa strip 14 - Prepare several pieces of masking tape around 3" long that will be used to hold the balsa strip in place. About eight pieces per wing will work fine 15 - Wings, leading edge 1/4" x 1/2" strips and wing tips ready to glue 16 - Some 15-30 minute Epoxy is applied to the leading edge of the wing and the inside of the balsa strip 17 - The strip is positioned over the leading edge and excess epoxy is removed 18 - Use the tape strips to hold the balsa leading edge strip in place. Make sure it is flush with the wing tip end and centered along the leading edge on both the top and bottom 19 - Make sure the leading edge is flush with the wing tip root, then apply epoxy to the wing tip area 20 - Apply epoxy to the Wing Tip balsa stock 21 - The balsa wing tip is positioned and excess epoxy is removed. Make sure you position the wing tip block in the correct direction, with the shallow curve toward the front as shown 22 - Use long pieces of masking tape to hold the wing tip block in place. Make sure the block is centered with both the top and bottom of the wing and also make sure it is flush with the leading edge as shown on the right side 23 - Epoxy is applied to the second wing leading edge and balsa strip. Keep the strip centered down the wing leading edge and flush with the outside tip, then clean the excess epoxy and tape the strip in place 24 - Epoxy is applied to the wing tip area of the wing 25 - Epoxy is applied to the wing tip block and the block is positioned as shown with the shallow curve forward 26 - The wing tip and leading edge shown with masking tape in place 27 - Both wings are waiting for the epoxy to set 28 - Epoxy has set and tape has been removed so the wing can be shaped 29 - Making a sanding board...I used three sheets of 100 grit sandpaper and taped them at the seams, then trimmed the excess tape flush to the outer ends 30 - The long sheet of sandpaper was taped to a two dollar shelf board that is very flat. Only use duct tape as it is the only one that will stick to the sandpaper 31 - Hold the wing with both hands and shape the leading edge...it will go surprisingly fast and the board helps keep your sanding perfectly even across the wing 32 - Initial sanding of leading edge spar now flush with the wing top 33 - Once both sides are done, you can drag the wing across the sandpaper toward you and rotate the wing rear up to make an even leading edge curve 34 - Shaped leading edge completed 35 - The excess spar at the wing root is sanded down. Stop just short of it becoming flush so there is enough spar to finish sand 36 - Finish sanding the root tip by dragging the root across the sandpaper 37 - Wing tip spar is completed 38 - Excess wing tip block is carved away using a large hobby knife. Be careful to not cut too deep and leave some excess to sand 39 - The sanding board and a sanding block as shown are used to shape the wingtip block 40 - Wingtip Block shaped on top and bottom 41 - Wing tip shown shaped to the chord 42 - The trailing edge is sanded on both sides to a taper of 1/16" 43 - Trailing edge completed 44 - The seams of the wing sheets are sanded flush. Check and sand the seams on both sides 45 - The first wingtip is cut to shape after the trailing edge is finished 46 - Center marks are made along the outside edge of the wing tip 47 - A center line is drawn through the marks...this is the line you will sand to when tapering each side 48 - A sanding block is used to taper and shape the wing tip 49 - The second side is sanded to the line and shaped 50 - Keep dusting while you sand to make sure you are sanding straight 51 - Wing Tip taper completed 52 - Another view of the shaping that was done to the wing tip 53 - The second wing is sanded just like the first, starting with shaping the leading edge 54 - The bottom leading edge has been shaped to the contour of the wing 55 - The top leading edge is shaped the same way. Check it often to make sure you are sanding evenly across the wing 56 - Leading edge shaping shown completed 57 - Sand down the root tip flush to the wing 58 - Root tip finished 59 - Carve away the large portion of the balsa tip so there is less to sand later. Be careful not to over trim 60 - The tip is sanded on both sides to the contour of the wing 61 - The trailing edge is again sanded to a 1/16" taper 62 - Next the seams are sanded flush 63 - Seams on the bottom of the wing are sanded 64 - The finished wing is placed evenly over the second wing and a sanding block is used to shape the trailing edge 65 - Both Wing Tip trailing edges should match 66 - A center line is drawn down the second wing tip 67 - Both sides of the wing tip are tapered and shaped to the line 68 - Fine sandpaper is used for final shaping of the tip 69 - Wing tip shaping completed 70 - Top view of the wing to show final shape 71 - Carefully cut out the Aileron Template 72 - A piece of brass square was used as a straight edge and placed flush against the bottom of the wing. The template is placed flush against the square and then spaced 1/4" to the inside of the wingtip seam. Position the template with the narrow end toward the wing tip, then draw the Aileron shape on the wing 73 - Aileron shape shown drawn on the wing 74 - Using a straight edge and a very sharp hobby knife, carefully cut out the Aileron. Be sure to hold the knife perpendicular to the wing so you do not cut down at an angle 75 - Aileron shown cut from wing Keep the knife square and cut 1/8" from the front of the Aileron The Aileron is lightly sanded flush The 1/16" x 1/2" wide balsa strip is slightly angled to fit the wing Use the strip to cut three pieces to sheet the inside of the wing in the Aileron well. Do not glue yet The second wing half is marked 1/4" from the seam for template position A vertical line is drawn to help align the template The template is flipped and used to marke the Aileron cutout. Be sure to keep the smaller end toward the wing tip Template shape transfered to the wing Once again, use a fresh blade and an straightedge to cut out the Aileron. Keep the blade perpendicular when cutting and make several shallow passes A ruler helps keep the line nice and straight Second Aileron cut from wing the 1/16" x 1/2" balsa strip is once again cut to box in the Aileron area of the wing Pieces shown cut , fitted and ready to glue Fifteen minute epoxy was used to mount the balsa strips Epoxy shown being applied to the Aileron area of the wing Next, epoxy is applied to the ends of each Aileron and balsa strips are cut for small Aileron end caps End cap strips shown installed and held in place with masking tape Second Aileron is prepped for end cap strips End cap positioned and secured with tape Once the glue has set, carefully remove all the masking tape. Sand the end caps on the Ailerons to match the shape Carefully shave off the larger portion of balsa with a hobby knife The strips are sanded flush to the wing The other wing is sanded flush, top and bottom You have the choice of using either Easy Hinges for Aileron mounts, or an alternate method. Heavy duty 1/8" pin hinges are shown. To install, marks are made 3/4" from each end of the Aileron well for hinge location The middle pin location is measured dead center. All locations shown A center mark is made on the wing Once you have the three centerlines drawn, a pencil is slightly pushed into the balsa at each location to start the mounting holes All three holes prepared to drill Start the bit straight down, then drill at an angle parallel to the side The second wing is marked Cross lines are drawn next to the center marks The pencil is used once again to start the holes, then they are drilled The Aileron is placed and centered in the wing, then pin locations are transfered. Use a knife to cut out a 1" wide hole in the foam The foam is removed with a hook tool Make a balsa block tapered to fit the opening. This is done at each pin location to add strength to the area The 1/2" wide block is installed and sanded flush to the Aileron Photo shows all three blocks fitted and ready to glue The blocks are removed and 5 minute epoxy is applied and the blocks installed flush. If you get too much epoxy, the blocks may hydraulic on you during installation and not sit completely in place, so push them in a bit deeper and the excess epoxy should squeeze out the top sides. Clean excess epoxy with a paper towel The second Aileron is being prepared and blocks are glued Next, apply 15 minute epoxy to the Aileron face and strip The strips are mounted to the face and held in place with masking Hinge pins are installed in the wing for fit. A Hinge with Horn is used on the inside mount The long front strip is sanded flush to to the Aileron The ends are sanded flush Ailerons ready to shape Fit of Aileron in wing opening shown, about 1/32" space on each side Center marks are made on the Aileron A center line is drawn Hinge mark locations are drawn. Make sure it is centered on the ends Cross lines are drawn at the hinge pin locations Holes are started with pencil point Hinge holes are drilled with a 1/8" bit at each location. Test fit in the fuselage often to check for mis-alignment or binding Ruler is placed along each side of the horn and marks are made Hinge and location marks shown Carefully sand a taper to center on the Aileron Angle shown sanded and centered Hinges are installed as well as the Aileron Note the areas cut away for the hinges, which allows center pivot at the Aileron Aileron installed Underside of wing, showing nice clean horn installation The second Aileron is drilled for hinges Holes are shown drilled down the center The end pin needs to be shortened to fit Sand an angle on the leading edge of the Aileron. Sand to the center line A slot is cut for the hinge with the horn The hinge is fit to the Aileron Use a hobby knife to cut slots for hinge movement The back of the slots are cut with a sharp knife install the Aileron in the wing and check for fit and movement Photo of the horn as seen from the bottom A ruler is used to draw a line for horn to servo alignment Two 1/8" square harwood sticks were installed in the wing Aileron wire runs and a yardstick was placed against these runs, then a line was drawn to indicate the path of the wires Photo shows yardstick parallel to and against the wood sticks Use a receiver or device to center the servo One side of the servo horn is removed The servo horn is rounded with a sanding block at the cut end Servo is placed so its horn is aligned with the Aileron horn A mark is made 1 1/2"from the servo horn line A line is drawn to mark the bottom area of the servo hole (left) A second line is drawn 1/4" past the servo horn line The bottom is marked 1" from the Aileron area on the wing as shown The box is cut with a sharp hobby knife. Note it is wide enough so that there is 1/4" of space on the front and back for door mounts Once the balsa is removed, cut away the foam Photo shows the approximate position of the servo A square piece of 1/8" balsa sheet is beveled to a wedge so the servo will sit level in the tray area. The thicker part goes forward Epoxy is used to glue the wedge shaped piece in place Tray bottom wedge fitted with the thick side toward the wing front A 1/32" thick piece of ply is cut as a bottom plate and soaked on one side with thin CA glue Once the glue dries, sand the surface to a plastic feel Epoxy is applied to the wedge top and the ply surface that was not covered in CA The ply plate was installed, smooth CA side up and the first wall piece was cut from 1/4" thick balsa The notch allows the wire to pass into the wing run 1/16" balsa is used on the sides to box in the servo area All four pieces cut and ready to epoxy in place Now is a good time to cut a second set for the other wing. Lay each piece over their corresponding piece of scrap balsa and cut them to shape. Cut a bit oversized so you can sand to a good fit later Glue the four pieces in place using five minute epoxy The hole for the servo leads is shown as accessible The servo fits just a bit loose from top to bottom in the pic and is centered side to side A piece of 1/64" ply is cut to fit as a cover A piece of 1/16" balsa is cut and laid over the ply cover With both pieces installed, the balsa piece on top is sanded flush Laminate the balsa and ply pieces together with epoxy Next, the cover is installed normally with the ply on top and lightly sanded Ply and balsa servo cover and tray area completed The second Aileron servo is centered using a receiver or device A centerline is drawn on the second wing for horn alignment The top of the servo well is drawn 1/4" past the centerline As with the first wing, a rule is used to draw the aileron wire runs Bottom of the servo well is marked 1" above the Aileron tip area Another mark is made 1 1/2" away from the horn center line A line is drawn parallel to the others at the mark The bottom is kept square and drawn at the 1" mark The ears on the servo are removed A mark is made so the servo has a 1/4" space on both sides A line is drawn to box in the servo well Servo area ready to cut Servo shows its position realative to the well A sharp knife is used to remove the balsa and cut the foam A ruler is used as a scraper to remove the foam Foam is removed from the well area A piece of 1/8" thick balsa is sanded to slope like a wedge Balsa wedge plate is epoxied in place with the thick part forward. This will keep the servo level in the well The foam area for the Aileron servo wire run is enlarged A 1/32" piece of ply has thin CA applied to one side, then sanded to a plastic feel once dry Epoxy is applied to ply side that doesn't have CA , then the plate is installed in the bottom as a servo mount surface Move the plate around to make sure it is settled and centered in position before the epoxy sets The four pieces for the walls that were previously cut are final cut and sanded to fit the well The thin sides are epoxied in first, then the top and bottom thick pieces are epoxied in place Servo well is shown framed in A thin 1/64" ply plate is cut to sized and installed, then a balsa piece in installed. The balsa is sanded to thickness for the wing surface The balsa and ply are laminated together with epoxy Servo cover shown in final position with ply on top The wing root is placed over one of the 1/16" x 9 x 1 1/2" ply pieces and the shape of the root is drawn on the ply Ply plate shown with wing root chord shape transfered The root piece is oversize cut using a saw The second wing root piece is drawn and cut to shape Plates are marked Left and Right, then one is sanded even to and taped flush to the bottom of the wing With the wing root held flush by the tape, sand the top of the root level to the wing Wing root shown sanded to shape top, front and rear The second wing root is taped and sanded the same way Once the middle of the root is sanded, masking can hold it in place at the top while you shape the leading edge Two marks are made at the location of the Aileron servo wire run Extra foam is removed from the wing for easier running of the wire Hole has been angled and opened for easier wire exit An opening is drawn on the root for the servo wire exit A heavy flat knife easily cuts the square opening out Aileron wire hole shown cut from the root piece Photo shows how it fits over the hole in the wing The second wing root is marked for the Aileron wire hole Hole is cut using a flat knife The fuselage wire exit is once again enlarged A mark is made 2 1/4" from the rear of the ply root Another mark is measured 6 1/8" from the first mark A center mark is made at the rear location A center mark is made at the front location A punch is used to mark the drill spots, then a 1/16" bit is used to start each hole The two roots are centered over eachother and taped together, then the rear hole is drilled with a 1/8" drill bit The forward mark is drilled with a 3/16" drill bit Wing roots showing drilled areas The root is taped flush to the bottom of the wing root on the Fuselage The 3/16" forward drill hole is transfered to the Fuselage The rear 1/8" hole is transfered to the fuselage. Make sure the wing root remains flush with the bottom as this will insure true wing incidence later during the assembly A marker is used to mark the location of the Aileron wire run The hole for the Aileron wire is cut with a sharp hobby knife A file is used to square up the wire hole Wing root preparation shown completed on one side The second wing root drill holes are transfered, keeping the root flush to the bottom of the fuselage as shown Second wing root is cut out for the Aileron wire run and shown as finished Make sure both wing roots are flush with no bowing The side of the spar that is not glued to the wing is covered with masking to keep it free of epoxy Spar surface shown sealed with masking tape 15-30 minute epoxy is applied to the other side of the spar Place masking tape on the second spar and apply epoxy The wing root edge top and bottom has masking tape applied so epoxy will not drip on the surface edges Epoxy is applied to the wing root Wing has been prepared Place the wing root on the spar and press to squeeze out excess epoxy Clean the edge with a paper towel and denatured alcohol, then tape the ply spar to the wing as shown. Be sure to keep the spar centered and flush to the wing on the bottom, top, front and rear The second wing is placed on the spar Excess epoxy is pressed out and cleaned, then the spar is taped to the wing. Keep the spare flush to the top and bottom of the wing Allow the epoxy on both wing halves to set up The 3/16" and 1/8" wooden dowels are tapered to a point on one end. A drill simplifies the task, but take care not to over tighten and deform the dowel with the chuck Dowel shown sanded to a point All four dowels are completed and the rear of each dowel is slightly tapered at the rear edge for easy installation into the fuselage Remove all tape from both wings, except for the root protection tape. This will remain in place if you are fiberglassing the wings, but can be removed if you plan to use Monokote Once the root wing spars are installed, lightly sand them flush on both the top and bottom of each wing 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth will be used to glass the wings A piece is cut wide enough for both wings A section of cloth is cut and fit for a single wing The wing is carefuly dusted of any particles The cloth is folded over the wing and centered even on both sides Excess cloth is trimmed prior to glassing The cloth is centered over the wing leading edge, then a thin line of medium CA is applied all the way down the leading edge The CA is pressed through the cloth to the wing and spread down the leading edge Leading edge is secured to the cloth. This will allow you to pull and stretch out the cloth on both sides for a nice fit The wing is laid on a piece of plastic and the cloth is formed by hand to the surface contour West Systems Epoxy was used for the glassing process. Be sure to mix the epoxy thoroughly The epoxy is poured into a plastic disposable food plate so it doesn't cure too quickly A brush is used to apply the epoxy, starting with the leading edge Work your way across, then back and across again and be sure to wet down the cloth well with resin Epoxy applied to one side of the wing A putty squegee is used to remove excess resin, then the wing top is covered with plastic The bottom of the wing is wetted out before the resin begins to cure. Watch your working time. Squegee off the excess and cover with a plastic sheet The second wing is prepared to glass The hole for the Aileron servo is plugged with a double thick piece of tape square The wing is placed on the cloth and centered The cloth is formed with your hand to follow the wing contour Excess cloth is cut away Medium CA is applied to the leading edge of the second wing The CA is spread across the entire leading edge CA has set and anchored the cloth at the leading edge The wing is placed over plastic sheet then contoured once again Mix up a fresh batch of epoxy resin and apply it to one side Once again, the excess resin is removed from the wing Excess resin has been removed A 3 mil plastic sheet is laid over the wing and pressed down The wing is flipped over and resin is applied to the other side Be sure to wet out the cloth well with resin. A disposable brush works well Once again, the excess resin is removed from the wing Continue with the spreader until all excess resin is removed Excess cloth is removed prior to covering A plastic sheet is placed over the wing and pressed down with the spreader. Be sure to remove all air bubbles Wing is glassed and sealed Excess plastic is removed Wing fiberglassing completed The wing is placed between a couple phone books and left until it sets Wing fiberglassing has set and is shown below The Ailerons and covers also need to be glassed. Cloth is cut to fit each piece Medium CA is used across the entire forward surface on both Ailerons Photo shows cloth glassed with CA to the front of the Aileron The second Aileron is prepared in the same way The cloth is folded over and resin is applied to both sides of the Ailerons and the ply side of the servo covers, then the excess is removed and all parts are covered in plastic and placed in a phone book to keep them flat Once the epoxy has set, remove the plastic covers from each wing The outer edges are rough cut with a hobby saw and knife The servo hatch is removed from the plastic Both hatches are rough cut and the excess cloth is removed Cut off the excess cloth from each Aileron. Fine sand the Wings, Ailerons and Hatches Fuselage assembly begins by sanding the seam with 400 grit sandpaper The sanded area is wiped down with a damp cloth A good body filler was used to fill the seam Seam filled on the top and bottom of the fuselage and left to set Two patterns for the main former are supplied, one for the Wemotec HW 609 fan and one for the Wemotec Minifan 480. Cut out the pattern for the fan you will use The minifan is used to draw a more accurate center on the template The main former template is transfered to its repective plywood sheet The sheet for the center former is traced on the outside, then taped in place A clean circle is made using the fan housing Center Former is ready to cut The front former is traced The front former is ready to cut The rear former is traced The rear former is ready to cut A scroll saw or coping saw is used to cut out each former. Cut it so you have some extra to sand to exact shape The center of the main former is shown drilled and being cut All three formers have been rough cut on the scroll saw A drum sander on a drill press made sanding the inside and outside edges much easier. You can also sand by hand The formers are fine sanded for a good fit Formers shown ready to install The model will be powered by a Wemotec Minifan 480 and a Kontronik 480-33 Brushless Motor using a 4S lipo battery Loktite is applied to the shaft adapter set screws Set screws are installed in the shaft adapter but not tightened The motor is temporarily installed to set adapter spacing The rotor is placed on the shaft and the shaft is pulled to bottom out and pull away the rotor from the rear of the housing so it does not rub The motor is carefully removed and the set screws are tightened with proper spacing set between the bottom of the adapter and the motor front plate. Clean up all excess Loktite with a Q-tip The motor ring is place on the rear so it will keep the motor centered. Some sanding on the inside of the ring may be necessary for a good fit and a Dremel with a drum sander works well The motor is installed and the ring is pressed in so it recesses flush in the back of the housing Install two 3mm x 6mm long bolts but do not use Loktite on the bolts as it will attack and eat away at the housing! Use either green Loktite or apply Blue locktite only to the motor threads with a toothpick and wipe of all excess prior to installing the motor in the fan Once the motor is tightened, install the fan rotor. Be sure to balance the rotor per manufacturers instructions prior to installation Install the fan washer The aluminum nut is installed next The fan is covered with a paper towel to protect it from shavings and a Dremel with a cutting wheel is used to slot the end of the shaft adapter about 1/8" deep A screwdriver is used in the slot to hold the shaft while the nut is tightened The fan hub can be installed and pops in place with some pressure. You can add some Loktite to the inside threads at the tip of the shaft adapter before installing the hub The hub retaining bolt is installed and held in place with the Loktite you previously added. Do not overtighten this bolt or the hub could come off during use! The Wemotec Minifan 480 Fan Assembly is shown completed Heat shrink is placed over the ESC wires and the wires are plugged in to the motor. Hook up a receiver and test to make sure fan direction is correct. If not, change any two of the three wires or program your ESC if it has the reverse feature The heatshrink is centered over the wires to hold the plugs together Tie wraps are used to tie the ESC to the motor wires so it doesn't flop around inside the exhaust duct The tabs on the fan will need to be removed Two wires are cut as shown for the ESC to battery leads Sockets are soldered to one end of the wires An Ultra Deans male connector is used and soldered at the battery side The leads are connected to the ESC Heat shrink is installed to prevent the wires from unpluging and it keeps the assembly neat and easier to install The Minifan Power Plant ready to install in the fuselage A large square is used to mark the locations of the formers The front former is installed 8 1/4" from the front of the fuselage. Several marks are made around the fuselage to help with the alignment of the former Tape is used to indicate the back of the former position and to aid with the next step The main center former is located 6 1/8" from the front former. Make several marks around the entire fuselage Photo shows locations marked for the rear of each former Install the main center former and check for fit. If you hold it up to a light, you will see bumps in the fuselage as shown by the arrow below. This is where the former is oversized, so remove it, sand a little at a time, reinstall and check again. When the former is shaped correctly, it will not show on the outside Picture of center main former in place and fitted Formers are positioned so the rear is on the marks. This is so you have clearance room to install the wing dowel clips later Front former shown installed, but the inside still needs sized The center former is temporarily fitted on the fan The fit was too tight, so it needed to be sanded to a loose fit A center mark is made at the inside top Marks are made evenly from the center and slightly oversized so the power plug will fit through The top is marked for clearance The area is cut to allow clearance for the power and servo cables The corners are rounded and the former is ready to install Former is test fit over the fan assembly and easily clears the duct Now is a good time to trim the Cockpit opening so you won't get cut while working in this area. Start by outlining the cockpit with 1/4" trim tape with the outside at the edge of the cockpit area A cutting wheel is used to rough cut the heavy areas A dremel and 1/2" sanding wheel on low speed is used to grind the inside edges to the tape. Be careful to not cut too much Area has been shaped and is now fine sanded with 320 grit to round the edges inside to out Cockpit area shaping shown completed Use 60-80 grit sandpaper and sand a 1" wide area inside the fuselage centered on the main former location for good glue purchase Apply 15-30 minute epoxy to the edge of the main former The Main Former is installed with the rear of the former on the marks Epoxy resin is mixed and three stips of 5oz glass cloth are cut. One strip is 5" long and the other 2 are 2 1/2" long Resin is applied in the fuselage area to glass the former to the wall Glass strips are installed as shown and excess resin is removed Five 1" x 1" strips are cut, soaked in resin, then applied to the rear of the main former. Excess resin is then removed Two fiberglass thrust tubes are supplied with the kit. The longer tube is used for the intake The intake is temporarily installed in the fuselage 1/4" away from the front of the main former and measured, then rough cut to length For a HW609 or other larger fans, the small end is used at the intake opening, while the larger end fits right over the fan. Also if you are using a larger fan, do not trim the duct and you can omit the next several steps and proceed to glassing your intake. For the MiniFan 480, one side of the intake duct was trimmed just enough to straighten the cut from manufacturing. Note that the smaller end of the tube is used on the fan side Make sure the intake on the fuselage is round, then the duct is installed and expanded to fit loosely in the opening. The loose fit of about 1/64" or more is required as the tube will be glassed later and this will increase its thickness The intake tube is removed and marked for cutting off the overlap A yardstick and knife is used to trim the excess off the intake duct. Be sure to cut excess the side that was not previously straightened The excess is removed from the duct Packing tape is applied from the inside to one side of the duct The other side is pushed flush and the tape is pressed down. You can use a wooden dowel to reach the center area The intake duct end is checked for fit Before glassing the duct, the inside ends are covered with blue masking tape so excess epoxy will not drip on the inside. Then the intake is sanded on the outside with 100 grit to rough it up for good glue purchase Then ends of the tube were capped with spare items in the shop to help keep them round during the glassing. A plastic cap from balsa filler was used on one end and a 1/4" thick balsa disk was made for the other end. Make sure what you use fits well; if too large, it can expand and open a crack at the seam This Website and all documents herin are Copyright © 2012 www.scalerocketry.com - All rights reserved.