HET-RC ME-262 Swallow Build Instructions

The HET-RC ME-262 Twin Minifan EDF jet as it comes from Markos at Warbirds-RC Opening the box reveals well packed contents All the parts shown are included in the kit, even fixed landing gear This kit will be retrofitted with some of the "New" RA-260 Retracts from Airpower and Warbirds-RC Opening the main bag reveals all the components necessary to get these air retracts flying The retract units themselves are very small, however, they are stout. The units are made from very thick aluminum alloy and are much sturdier than other brands of retracts we have used in the past. They also come with 1/8" gear wire The entire Airpower RA-260 retract setup weighs only 3.5oz and that includes the 1/8" gear wires and all air assist accessories Construction begins by finding the location of each wing Nacelle. A piece of cardboard is included in the kit and is 110mm wide, which is a bit too wide. Hold the cardboard flush with the end of each wing and draw a reference line Install a nacelle on each wing up to the 110mm line. Make sure you use the correct nacelle as there is one for each side Measure the side of the nacelles at 108mm from the end of each wing root The 108mm measurement moves the nacelle closer to the fuselage as the original 110mm caused aileron binding agianst the rear of the nacelle as shown Draw a new outside line, which should be 2mm closer to the wing root. Make sure the rear of the nacelle clears the Aileron area Draw on the top of the wing the location of each nacelle Measure 1/8" inside the outer line on the bottom of the wing and cut to remove the covering material Cut along the leading and trailing edge, making sure you leave a good 1/8" or more for re-covering Remove the bottom covering as shown The covering reveals the fixed gear mounting block, which is used as reference for retract installation Measure 3 1/4" from the root of the wing to the rear side of the hardwood block and make a mark Measure 7/8" from the rear of the block and mark this location Make a second mark at 7/8" as shown Draw a line through both the 7/8" marks to the root of the wing Draw the horizontal top line at the 3 1/4" mark across as shown Cut the Main Door Cutout pattern from the templates and place the back of the door along the vertical line you drew and the top should be lined up with the 3 1/4" horizontal line Transfer the front pattern of the door to the wing as shown Mark and draw a second line at 1/8" past the first line to allow for the thickness of the Secondary Spar Cut the balsa from the area that was just marked Remove the balsa sheeting and foam from the area Check your measurement and make sure it shows 3 1/4" The Trailing edge of the block to the rear should measure 1" as shown Use an exacto knife to cut into the hardwood block along the door pattern line A chisel cutter can be used to cut loose some of the wood An Exacto knife can be used from the side of the block to cut the rest of the length Once cut, remove the excess wood Cut away the remaining block to the door line using a chisel knife Sand the area smooth to remove splinters and burrs Use a hobby saw and cut the root rear spar down to the balsa. Try to keep the cut parallel to the main spar hole in the forward area of the wing root Cut the front root area in a similar manner use a knife to cut along the inside of the wing root and remove the excess Sand the bottom of the area flush to the wing sheeting Insert a piece of 1/8" ply sheeting and draw a line on the sheeting. Cut the Secondary Spar to length as shown in the templates Cut a piece of 1/4" x 3/8" hardwood block to a length of 1 7/8" ; Note that the wood shown in the pic is 3/8" square and had to be cut to the correct 1/4" x 3/8" dimensions Draw a line along the block as shown to match the one in the templates Sand the surface smooth Cap the top of the block with a 1/16" thick piece of aircraft ply Clamp the assembly until the epoxy sets Use a knife to cut away the foam underneat the top side of the wing as shown Cut back the foam about 1" or more; clean up the hole for the aileron servo wires Remove the extra piece of balsa as shown. Cut it from the fuselage opening to the outside top of the hardwood block Cut a 3" long piece of 3/8" square hardwood and use it to mark the foam on the right side as shown. Remove the foam below the line so the block can sit recessed in this area under the wing sheeting and even with the top opening Install the main spar Install the wing in the fuselage Transfer the outline of the wing's cut out area to the fuselage Use a sharp knife to remove this area from the fuselage. Sand the inside edges smooth once finished Measure 1/4" down from the seam of the fuselage on the bottom of the jet and draw a line parellel to the seam With the wing installed flush, make a line from the rear of the wing opening to the fuselage Make a line from the front of the wing opening to the fuselage, matching the angle Install the template with the top at the 1/4" from the seam horizontal line and the bottom between the two marks you just made. The rest of the pattern should align with the wing door area as shown Transfer the pattern to the fuselage area Carefully cut out the pattern in the fuselage. This will take some time, possibly an hour or more and may take 30-40 passes with an exacto knife on each side. It takes a couple blades to cut through the entire area. If you run into a glue area, try to pop the fuselage free of the glue rather than cut through the glue, which will be reinforced later. Also note that one side will expose some of the main spar support plywood and glue. Take care not to cut into the ply Lightly sand the area that was cut out and clean it up Measure in 1/8" from the front inside door run as shown Cut the balsa to the elbow, but leave the foam core in place Cap the area with a 1/8" wide by 1/16" thick piece of basswood strip. Epoxy it in place Cut out the wing door from the pattern Check the fit on the door Add Epoxy to the Retract wedge top and outside Install the wedge as shown, with the inside of the wedge aligned with the bottom end of the harwood block Cut a second wedge, 3" long from 1/4" x 3/8" hardwood using the supplied pattern Cap the wedge on the top with a 1/16" thick strip of aircraft ply Clamp the assembly and allow the epoxy to set Install the secondary spar, the long wedge and the retract and check their position. Install the fixed gear wire in its hole and check that the angle of the retract wire is similar to the fixed wire ash shown. Also, slightly sand the inside of the long wedge if the retract is too tight Use a screwdriver to push the roll bar level forward in the retract and then fold the gear wire into the wheel well. Check that the wire runs paralled to the wing door area and that is is fairly centered in the wheel area Apply epoxy to the 3/8" square block and install in in the opening you cut so the bottom is pressed against the inside of the root spar Use the secondary spar to hold it in place while the glue sets. The block support is shown glued into place Apply epoxy to the side and bottom edge of the secondary spar and install it in place. Do not apply epoxy to the bottom part of the spare that is exposed and plugs into the fuselage Clean up all excess epoxy Apply epoxy to the long wedge bottom and the one side facing the spar Epoxy the long wedge in place, so the back is even with the other wedge and the bottom should come near the end of the wing root Clean up all excess epoxy with a scraper and paper towels Install the AirPower RA-260 retract. It should just fit between the two wedge blocks Cut another piece of hardwood block to fit behind the two wedge mounts Apply epoxy to the area as shown Install the cross block support and epoxy in place Clean up any excess epoxy Lightly sand the secondary spar so it is flush with the wing sheeting Position the retract so the front of it is 1 15/16" from the root edge of the wing as shown Use a pencil to mark the location of each mounting hole Use a punch to start the mounting holes Place a piece of masking tape on the end of your drill bit, no more than 3/8" from the end. Do not drill past the tape as this will act like a depth gauge so you do not drill through the top of the wing. Drill the four mounting holes with a 1/16" drill, angling the bit from the side view so it is perpendicular to the wedge Temporarily install the door and mark its top location as shown Fit a 1/32" ply plate as shown, just above the marks you made Place a EZ-Hinge in position and mark the areas that need trimmed down to size the hinge to the hole Measure and draw a centerline down the hinge Place half the hinge over a 3/16" thick piece of balsa and trace the outline of the hinge to the balsa. Note that the hinge sides were cut slightly angled to allow for clearance on the sides Use a ruler to scrape away and compress the balsa topcoat on the block so the hinge is recessed and the top of it sits flush with the balsa block Round the back bottom side of the balsa block so that the Aileron Servo cable will not hang up when passed by it Tape up half the hinge to the centerline, then epoxy it to the balsa Cap the top of the hinge with the 1/32" ply coverplate while the epoxy is still wet Install the block while the epoxy is still wet under the top wing area so the front of it comes even with the top of the door as shown. A piece of tape is used to hold the ply plate and balsa block in position until the glue sets. Use a ruler underneath as shown to insure the block is pressed up against the inside of the wing Cut a piece of 1/8" square basswood to a length that allows the inner retract screw to still be installed Epoxy the stick in place and use the door to measure how low to place the stick. The top of the door should be even to the wing's surface Cap the top of a scrap piece of 1/8" balsa with some 1/8" basswood stick Measure and trim the balsa plank to height and cut to size. Make sure it sits recessed below the top of the wing Sand a bevel at the end of the balsa plate Glue the plate in place, with the basswood stick on top as shown. IT will cover the wing foam and should sit recessed so the door is flush to the wing Clean up the excess epoxy. The plate will cover the wing foam and should sit recessed so the door is flush to the wing when placed over this stop plate Apply some epoxy to the fixed gear slot in the hardwood block Use some scrap 1/8" square basswood stick to fill in the space Cut the excess basswood so it blends in with the angle of the hardwood door cuts Epoxy a piece of 1/16" x 1/8" basswood stick at the angled location to prevent the door from receding to far, but ratheer give it a landing for which to rest Place the door over the retract area and check for fit. It should be recessed enough to sit below the surface of the wing. Sand the landings to fit if necessary Cut a piece of 1/8" ply to a width of 1/4" and to the length and shape as shown. this will act as door retention and an alignment guide Bevel both the front and rear inward to allow for alignment of the door Install the retract and colapse the gear. Rub a pencil across the top of the gear wire as shown Position the door bracket in place and lift the gear wire The gear wire transfered its location to the bracket Cut a short piece of 1/8" ply and epoxy it in place to the back side of the gear(right) Cut a second block and use it to wedge the gear wire between it and the other block. Apply thin coat of CA to the top of the two blocks to prep them for drilling Drill 1/16" holes through the center of each small block and out the bottom of the bracket. Epoxy a small diameter piece of elastic cord in one hole, then when set, epoxy the other side in, keeping some tension on the cord so it dries while semi-taught Slip the asssembly over the gear wire. Use small pieces of masking tape to keep it from shifting position on the wire Apply epoxy to the top surface of the bracket assembly Use tape to hold the gear wire down and out of the way Position the door in its opening and tape in place Tape the top of the door over the hinge Lift the gear wire until the bracket touches and glues to the inside of the door. Allow the glue to set Door Bracket is shown correctly installed Locate the area of fuselage you removed for the gear and wheel; this will be used as the doors. Trim the top of the fiberglass door as shown and keep both pieces Measure 1" from the inside flat area of the door and cut the smaller door away from the larger Lightly sand the smaller door to smooth the ends epoxy a piece of 1/16" thick ply that is 1/16" wide along the short side length of the door Make a wire hinge from 2-56 pushrod and bend as shown in the templates Place the wire in position as shown and cut an inner 1/16" ply piece at least 1/8" wide. It will be placed above the wire to wedge and hold the wire in place Cap the assembly with a final piece of 1/16" thick ply wide enough to cap the assembly Ply ends are shown glued in place Mark a center line on the wide ply plate. Use a saw to slot only down to the hinge. Bend a piece of micro pushrod as shown The pushrod is a fraction longer so it can push into the thin ply brace at the bottom, then slide into the slot you cut with a saw as shown at the top Cut a small piece of 1/16" thick x 1/4" wide ply so it fits between the two ply braces. Slot it so it will cover the micro wire Epoxy the short ply over the micro wire as shown Bend the wire 1/14" past the rear of the door Position the door temporarily in place. Remove any fuselage glue that will get in the way over the next few steps Cut a piece of 1/8" thick ply to 3/8" x 1/2" in size and drill a 1/16" hole on one end as shown Cut the rear hinge bracket from the template and glue the bottom side with a thin piece of 1/16" ply, followed by the hinge rod and capped with another piece of ply. Remove the excess ply from the bracket witha saw Rear hinge shown ready to install the wheel door is prepped by adding a strip of 1/16" thick x 1/8" ply to the long edge Epoxy the wood strip to the door edge Clamp and hold flat the glued side as the strip of wood can be used to remove any warping in the glass door Cut a 1/16" x 1/2" wide strip of ply and shape the ends to the contour of the wheel door Once again, epoxy the strip in place, clamping to a flat surface so it reshapes the door and removes warping Sand the ends of the ply barces flush to the glassed door Install the wire hinge on the fuselage door Sand the inside of the fuselage to allow for good glue purchase Center the door in its location and use masking tape to hold it in place Apply epoxy to the rear hinge ply bracket, but keep the slot free of epoxy Position the bracket in the fuselage and over the hinge wire using a knife to hold the piece Apply fillets of glue along the sides of the hinge bracket Remove any excess epoxy from the fillets and once the glue begins to set, twist the wire hinge so it doesn't get glued in position and can be removed later Apply epoxy the the forward ply hinge Epoxy the forward bracket in place and push the hinge rod through the hole in the bracket. Reposition the bracket so the door is spaced evenly in the fuselage and let the glue set Cut a piece of 1/8" inner diameter brass tube to the length of 5/32" as shown Mark the landing gear wires at 1" from one end Using a vise and hammer, bend right angles on each rod at the 1" mark as shown. You can tape the wires together side by side to make sure they are even to eachother Once bent, measure the length of the wire; it should be 4 inches Install the brass tube over the wire, which is a spacer for the wheel, then install a 4-40 washer Install the wheel and finally the supplied wheel collar Tighten the wheel collar and make sure the wheel spins freely with no binding Install the gear wire in the retract assembly Fold the gear over and check for clearance Install the short door on the fuselage Cut three pieces of 1/8" ply to a width of 5/16" and length of 7/8", then split the center piece in half Place one of the ply pieces under the gear and flush to the secondary Spar, then mark the wire side locations on the ply Epoxy the two short pieces at the locations, using a 1/8" wire to gauge for a snug fit Remove the excess ply from the center pieces that are hanging over the ends Epoxy the third ply piece in place, centered over the assembly Sand the bracket to shape, beveling the edges as shown. The bevel will act as a guide against the Secondary Spar and keep the wheel aligned when retracted Apply a coat or two of thin CA over the top of the bracket Use a 5/64" drill to make a hole dead center over the assembly. Only drill through the top piece of wood Use a 4-40 Tap to make threads in the wood hole. Add a couple drops of thin CA to harden the threads and tap once again when the glue has dried Install a 4-40 set screw in the tapped hole Use a scrap piece of 1/32" ply and draw the curve of the wheel opening on the ply Cut out the piece 1/2" wide and 3/4" long. Shape and sand/round the corners Make a mark on the fuselage 1/2" from the short door as shown Epoxy the 1/32" ply stop plate in position and line up the side with the mark for proper spacing Use a file to sand down the top area of the secondary spar as shown so that the wheel door will sit flush with the fuselage Check to make sure the door sits flush where you notched the spar Space the round door evenly in the opening and then tape it to the small door to hold it in place Flip the door out of the way and apply epoxy to the upper bracket as shown. Check that the position of the bracket is high enough so it won't rub against the wheel Flip the door back over and press it down on the bracket with epoxy. Allow some time for the epoxy to set Lift the door once the epoxy initially sets and allow the glue full set time. Cut the two lower door mount pieces from the templates. They are 1/8" thick ply x 1/4" x 3/4" long and you will also need a 1/8" diameter horn bracket Notch the top of the horn bracket as shown so it cannot twist on the elbow of the wire gear Slide the horn bracket in place as shown Install the gear and close the assmebly. Adjust the position of the wheel door and lock it in place with tape when centered Use masking around the shaft so the door cannot slide out of position Remove the wheel, make sure the door is slid against the tape on the left, then check the position of the bracket horn Draw a center line down one of the ply lower mount pieces Slot the top of one of the lower door mount ply pieces so a micro rod sits in the slot flush with the top of the ply surface. Scraping with the micro rod works well for this task Use epoxy to glue the two pieces as shown, using the wire as a guide. Be sure to remove the wire before the epoxy sets Sand down the end of the bracket to about half its thickness and round the end when done Use a dremel to cut a slot in the top center of the mount. NOTE: The top part of the assembly is the ply piece that was NOT slotted for the micro rod. The slotted piece is on the bottom A file is used to widen the slot so the plastic horn bracket fits The slot will need to be cut deep so that only one layer or so of ply remains Use a dremel and sanding drum to bevel the ends of the assembly. Lightly sand all edges to round them Install the horn bracket in the assembly, then pin it in with a piece of micro wire. A small "L" shaped handle can be bent in the wire to aid with installation The assembly allows for some pivoting of the bracket horn so you can adjust the position of the door Place the mount assembly on the wire, make sure the tape on the left of the wire is flush with the top door mount and then use a pencil to transfer the location of the mount to the door. Make a small mark on the top of the mount to indicate direction so it doesn't get flipped around, which could cause alignment problems Move the wire out of the way, then apply epoxy to the bottom of the lower mount Install the mount and clean up any excess epoxy Install the assembly and adjust the door position, then use the set screw to lock it in place. you can adjust the door so it is centered in the fuselage well The door closing wire is bent to work as shown. Adjust the wire so the door closes and does not hang on the wire Find the short piece of fiberglass you cut from the top of the round door and sand the inside curve so it is flat Tape the wing door in place Apply epoxy to the short glass piece Install the piece to fill in the gap between the wing door and wheel door and leave a small space between them as shown Build the door stop assembly from the templates. It consists of two pieces of 1/8" ply Use the wheel to adjust the angle of the inner door while open, allowing ample clearance for the wheel. Place a piece of masking tape behind the door so it only opens as far as needed Epoxy the door stop in place as shown. Close the door to make sure the stop is not too high. you can treat the door area and stop with CA to harden them and extend wear Once glued, the extra wood can be removed with a drum sander so the door stop is shaped as shown Cut the Door Spring pattern from the template...it is a piece of ply 1/8" thick by 1/4" wide x 1" long Make a centerline down the length of both sides of the ply Grind the lower side to a bevel, from the bottom of the wood to the line at midpoint. Repeat for the other side of the wood Your goal is to wind up with a piece that is diamond shaped as shown from the side Mark and cut the piece in half so you wind up with two 1/2" long mounts Epoxy the mount to the rear of the door, making sure the bottom of the mount starts above the seam of the ply and fiberglass door, otherwise it will bind with the fuselage Sand a piece of plastic antenna tube to rough up the outside Cut two 1/2" long pieces of antenna tube. Note it is easier to do both doors at the same time Epoxy the tubes to the upper back side of the doors and add fillets as necessary The door closing wire is bent to work as shown. Adjust the wire so the door closes and does not hang on the wire Bend a small piece of fine music wire to the shape below A wood block is cut and drilled through the top through the front of the bar at two locations for the inner fuselage door tensioning wires. It is glued in place as shown, then fine .020" wire is cut and routed to the door tubes as shown. These doors work similarly to the main nosegear door, so that they spring open and closed Install the doors, making sure you thread the wire through each door spring tube. Once installed, cut the wires to length. Bend the wire to adjust tension...each door should open completely against their stops as shown Mark the wing location for the nacelle Cover the wing with iron-on material. You can either reuse the old covering or iron on new material Cut out the door area and dress it as shown Make sure you removed the covering from the top side of the wing, where the nacelle overlaps Check the Aileron servo opening and mark as necessary to cut to size Cut the servo area to fit the particular servo you plan to use. HS-81's were used in the photos Center your servo using a receiver or servo tester, then cut and install the long horn as shown, then install the retention screw Test fit the servo in the well and make sure it clears at the horn end Cut a piece of 1/32" ply to the dimensions in the templates for the Aileron servo ply mount Glaze the top of the ply with CA and sand to a smooth finish Apply epoxy to the bottom of the plate and epoxy the ply servo mount to the wing as shown Make a cover for the servo from 1/32" or 1/64" ply. It is easier to make both covers at the same time. Apply thin CA to the top and bottom corners so the wood doesn't splinter when drilled Tape is used as a guide to position the cover. There should be about 1/4" of clearance around the sides of the cover Tape the cover in place and use a 1/16" drill to make holes at each corner, about 1/8" in from the ends Remove the cover and mark its location and direction as shown so they don't get mixed up later Apply thin CA to the wing holes with a toothpick Open up the holes in the corners of the ply with a 5/64" bit so they are large enough for the #2 screws. Place the cover over its location and transfer the horn area to the cover, then cut out the slot Clean the servo back with acetone to remove all grease, then apply servo tape to the back of the servo Tape the servo connector to a long, flat piece of fiber or a thin piece of wire. Insert the wire through the wing hole. Thread the servo wire through the hole, then pull the servo connector out into the retract area as shown. Remove the tape Remove the backing from the tape and install the servo in the wing Use four button head #2 x 3/8" screws to install the servo cover Check for clearance between the cover and horn. File and sand if necessary Find the Aileron hinges that were supplied in the kit. Draw center lines down each hinge Install but do not glue the hinges in the wing. Note that a third "center" hinge was added in the photo for extra safety but it is not essential Install the Aileron on the wing hinges Use thin CA and glue the hinges to the wing. Clean up with a paper towel and be sure to apply CA to both sides of the wing at the hinge locations Install a clevis on one of the pushrods. Note that plastic clevis' are shown in the pic, but you may have metal ones Clip the clevis to an Aileron control horn supplied in the kit. Keeping the wire even with the servo and side of the cover, position the horn as shown and drill the hole with a 5/64" bit Install one screw to hold it in place, then drill the other side and install the second horn screw Cut and grind the extra screw length from the top of the wing With the clevis installed and the Aileron clamped (as shown on the bottom) to keep it centered, make sure the servo is still centered, then mark the location of the servo horn hole on the rod Drill the horn at the end hole so it can accept the pushrod. Use a 1/16" bit, then open it up more with a 5/64" bit if needed Remove the clevis from the wire and make a "Z" bend at the mark. A ruler is shown for size reference Install the clevis on the rod, then install the pushrod assembly. This concludes the wing retract and control installation Begin work on the power assembly by locating a Nacelle, then begin by sanding the lip from the front of the nacelle. Note that the intake is actually the long side MEasure your intake so you know how much to sand. You will need toopen it up to about 62mm so the inner fiberglass intake tube is at 60mm in diameter Tape can be used as a guide for sanding. Wrap some vinyl tape around the end, exposing about 1/8" to start Sand down to the tape. A dremel with a sanding drum makes it easy work. Be sure to wear a long sleeved shirt and full length pants, as well as a mask to prevent irritation that can occur from the dust USe a fine sander to finish up the first cut. Measure the diameter and repeat as necessary until the hole is opened to the correct diameter Fine sand the intake lip of the nacelle Use a drum to sand down the glue seam on the inside so it is not in the way Final measurement shows the nacelle is ready for the intake inner tube Install the tube from the bottom of the nacelle Push the nacelle forward through the intake hole in the nacelle Locate your fan shroud and trim a monunting tab from one side. Install the shroud in the rear of the intake and use it to center the intake at the rear At the front, draw a line around the Intake Tube USe a dremel or hobby saw to remove the excess. Be sure to cut the piece long so you have a little extra to shape it to exact length Rough up the outside end of the intake tube Final Intake Tube length shows around 6 3/4" long Once again, install the intake tube and Fan Shroud as shown Apply a bead of epoxy around the front inside of the nacelle as shown Push the fan shroud and intake inner tube forward through the front until it stops. Remove the excess epoxy with paper towels and alcohol Leave the unit upright as shown to alow the epoxy to flow down into the joint. Also make sure the fan shroud is seated and centered in the opening Use a saw or sand the remaining intake from the front once the glue sets Fine sand the front of the intake assmebly Lightly sand the edges to slightly round them as shown Move to the rear of the Nacelle. It should be 55-58mm in diameter Sand the opening until it is at the required size When finished, this model's nacelle was sized for a 55mm exhaust tube Lightly sand the edges of the Nacelle smooth with fine sandpaper Trim the covering if necessary so that about 1/16" overlaps on the inside Use a file if necessary to shape the rear corner of the nacelle on the Aileron side, as the wing may flatten out at this point. Check the fit Apply masking tape to each side of the wing on the outside of each line to catch any epoxy overflow Apply an ample amount of epoxy to the nacelle only as shown Install the Nacelle on the wing and check alignment before the epoxy sets If there a gaps between the wing and nacelle, fill them with a mixture of epoxy and fiberglass mil, or any other thickener. Remove the tape and clean as necessary before the glue sets You can apply a small fillet of epoxy along the rear of the nacelle if desired Form the thin fillet to a nice transition from wing to nacelle A similar fillet can applied to the front of the nacelle If you are painting your model, fill the gap at the front of the wing with filler, then sand and paint Use a rolled up piece of fine sandpaper to open the hole for the ESC wires Apply masking to the wing to catch epoxy spill over Apply masking tape to the fuselage as you did the wing Use 15-30 minute epoxy to give you some working time and apply epoxy to the fuselage root slot with a mixing stick Apply epoxy to the wing spar. Make sure it is installed in the correct direction with it angling upward toward the top of the fuselage Spread epoxy along the fuselage wing root and sides of the spar Apply epoxy the the wing root and spar slot. Keep the secodary rear spar clean Install the wing on the fuselage. Make sure it fits flush, as this will produce a built in dihedral in the wing. Clean up the excess epoxy and remove the masking tape Cut the 1/2" square hardwood block from the template, then apply epoxy to the secondary spar end and the inside of the block Install the block in the wing and allow the epoxy to set This completes our wing installation. Repeat the procedure from the beginning for the second wing Installation of the second wing shown completed Install the retract units in each wing Install each strut and wheel into the retracts Examine the fuselage and look for the rear seam of the nosewheel plate that is under the fiberglass. It should appear as a bump in the fuselage. Draw a line about 1/8" behind the pre-installed gear hole, or far enough away so you don't cut into the stock former Use a piece of paper aligned at the center seam to make sure your line is square Measure 1 1/4" from the center of the seam in each direction. This will be the location of the sides of the nosegear hatch Measure and draw lines rearward, making sure they remain parallel to the center seam. Draw a line at 2" from the front for the rear of the hatch Draw two lines on the inside 1/2" inward from the outer lines Measure and draw a line 1/4" from the front line as shown Score and cut the front of the hatch as shown, taking your time Use a ruler and cut each side outer line as shown Extend the inner lines rearward on the fuselage for the main door and back about 6" Cut the back end as shown. The main door extends 1/2" into the hatch area. The remaining main door can be cut to a length of 5 3/4" Cut a 1/8" ply Retract Mounting Plate from the templates Install a 1/8" ply rear plate as well as two side plates. While the side plates appear longer in the pics, they should be 1" wide/tall like the rear. Glue two strips of 3/8" square hardwood block to add more support for the mounting screws Install the retract and mark the mounting holes with a pencil, then drill with a small bit Install #2 x 3/8" long hex head screws to retain the retract unit Check the fit of the retract against the gear plate that came mounted in the fuselage. Additional ply was added to the back and angled to compensate for the stock nosegear plate that was mounted crooked Check your rearward angle on the gear and sand the back plate as necessary. There should be ample angle for the rear of the wheel to retract completely, 1/2" or so past the bottom edge of the fuselage. A cross plate for the floor is cut from 1/8" ply to fit across the inside of the fuselage and the retract block sits on this plate. It may take some time to shape it to fit Cut the steering retract servo plate from the templates. Note that a Hitec HS-81 was used in the example, so you may need to cut the center hole differently to fit your servo. Note that the notched sides of the plate should fit inside the walls of the block Epoxy the plate to the bottom inside of the Retract block Apply epoxy to the bottom of the block assembly. Only apply epoxy in the area as shown Apply epoxy the the fuselage bottom plate Glue the two pieces together A couple of pieces of scrap 1/8" ply can be cut 3/8" wide by 1" long and glued to the bottom to add extra grip for the servo mounting screws Center your servo using a receiver or servo tester, then center your horn on the servo and install the horn screw Install the servo in the plate, making sure to use the rubber mounting grommets as they will provide some shock absorbtion for the steering mechanism Install the mounting screws supplied with the servo to mount it to the plate Install two Sullivan #550 pushrod connectors in the second hole from each end of the horn. Apply Loktite to the lockdown holes, then install the bolts Use a tailwheel wiring kit, slide a crimp over the wire and then run the wire through the end of the steering arm. Note the arm thin center shaft is on the bottom Thread the wire per instructions through the crimp tube Crimp and then trim the excess from the wire. Repeat the installation for the other side of the aluminum steering arm Install the landing gear strut, then run the wires through the servo connectors. Center, then tighten the wires with the pushrod connector bolts and trim so there is about 1/4" wire extending past each connector Check the functionality that the steering wires will colapse in the up position, then check that they are not too tight to lock down. If the gear doesn't lock down, your wires are too tight. They should be taught, but not tight. Adjust if necessary Sand to round the corners of the block so the wires do not snag on them during operation Instsall a 3/32" aileron horn bracket as shown to help with the air hose routing Apply epoxy to the back plate and bottom edges of the cross plate Install the retract assembly against the bottom floor and rear stock gear plate. Make sure the gear is centered and not angled left or right Cover the block with masking, then apply an epoxy/glass mil mix along the edges of the cross plate as shown The servo plate should be receeded into the fuselage at least 3/4" A custom length of 1/8" strut wire was used to make the extra long nosegear strut. A drill and dremel were used to cut down the 1/8" wire diameter to 3mm so it would fit the retract. Narrow about 1" of wire from the end Insure the retract and steering arm can fit the wire without being too loose or binding Use the stock retract wire to mark the notch location make sure the mark is drawn completely around the wire Use a dremel with cutting wheel to notch the wire while spinning it in a drill. Use a file and sandpaper to smooth the notch, using the drill to spin it like a lathe. Check the assembly in the retract Make a mark at 1" from the other end of the gear, then bend a right angle. A vise was used, but you need to grind a slight round edge on the vise before hammering the bend, otherwise the wire will crack from bending against a sharp surface Shape the gear to the template Slide a 1/8" id brass sleeve over the end of the strut Install the wheel, then the collar. Make sure the wheel spins freely and doesn't bind Install the strut in the retract. Check for rotation/turning without binding while the retension screw holds the strut in place Colapse the retract. It should clear the rear of the main door Use a sanding drum to remove the glue seam left from manufacturing Lightly sand the edges of the opening smooth with fine sandpaper Position and trace the nose opening curve to a piece of 1/8" or 1/4" ply as shown The ply piece must be 1/4" thick. If you used 1/8" ply as in the photos, make another piece Laminate the two 1/8" pieces together with epoxy Check the fit and adjust as necessary Use a 1/8" drill and drill a hole as shown, through the 1/4" ply and into the stock ply former in the nose Use a wood dowel to hold the drilled section in place and drill a second hole Cut two pieces of 1/8" dowel to a length of 1/2", round the tips, then epoxy them in the holes Insert the ply plate and dowels into the front of the nose. Use a piece of sotch tape between the joint to catch glue overspill. Apply epoxy to the ply top and glue both halves of the fiberglass hatch to the wood. Use tape to hold it in shape until the glue sets Use a scrap piece of 1/8" ply to begin framing in the opening Put a piece of 1/4 angle balsa across the back, then sand to shape Apply epoxy to the 1/8" ply edge and angle stock, then epoxy in place Frame in the edges of the hatch with 1/8" square ply as shown Build and glue a second frame piece for the opposite side of the fuselage. glue, then clamp in place Use smal 1/8" square pieces of basswood to finish framing the inside of the hatch as shown Disgard the fiberglass pieces of small door you had and cut one from 1/32" ply. Cut, sand and shape a piece of 1/4" thick hardwood for the rear Frame in the inside of the door with 1/8" x 1/16" pieces of basswood on the sides and 1/8" ply on the front. Be sure to keep the curve in the door Cut to shorten the door stop tabs as shown Set the door in the opening and tape in place. Small Robart pin hinges are used for door mounting Use a drill and make two holes into the door for the hinges As the hinges need to recess 1/8" inside the top panel, cut 1/8" square openings for them. Drill downward from this position so the pin hinges use the body of the door plate as a good anchor to bond Check the fit of the hinges and clean up the holes Apply epoxy through the holes in the hatch Install the hinges in the hatch and dry fit them to the door. Check for alignment and ease of movement befor the glue sets Trim the protruding hinges flush with the hatch as shown Use a toothpick to apply epoxy to the holes in the small door Install the door Position the door and check for free movement before the epoxy sets Trim the hinges flush as shown Cut two hatch mounts from the templates to shape Epoxy one of the mount plates in place Epoxy the other mount plate in the fuselage Install the hatch, then make marks at the center of each end Use a small drill to drill holes through the hatch and the ply hatch mounts. Use #2 button head screws to retain the hatch Cut a piece of 1/16" x 3/8" wide ply to a length so it fits inside the small door. Use a saw as shown to cut only halfway through, so the surface is slotted Use sone .020" wire to make the shape as shown. Cut two slots for the "L" shapes to fit Epoxy a piece of scrap 1/32" ply to hold the wires in the slots Bend the wire at an angle as shown Apply epoxy to the bottom of the mount Epoxy the wire and mount into the end of the door as shown Twist a piece of solid copper wire around the loop as shown, with the twists on the away side of the loop Solder the wire in place. the wire will be used by the strut to "open" the door Install the strut and check the motion of the door. The wire loop can be bet up or down to adjust so the door just closes at full retraction Check opening of the door; it should not bind when the retract is in full down position Cut a piece of 1/8" ply to fit the width of the large door opening Shape the ply piece to match the curve of the hatch/small door Cut two pieces of 1/64" ply so they are oversized on all sides by about 1/4" Tape the door opening to catch epoxy spillover and tape one end of the two ply pieces Open the pieces like a book, then apply a film of epoxy to both pieces. Fold them together and press out as much epoxy as you can Tape the door to the opening, overlapping the sides and rear. Slightly overlap the front at the hatch/small door. Allow the epoxy to set halfway (5-10 mins for 5 min epoxy) Teh door can be bent and shaped while still curing and semi soft. Trim the sides and back end so it fits the opening. Flex or shape it as necessary. It should have a slight curve at the front, as well as a slope Cut the outer door hinge mounts from 1/8" ply and 1/32" ply Slot the two ends of the ply, 3/32" outward from the corners so a piece of small pushrod can fit the slot Laminate the two pieces together with epoxy, then run the rod through the slots before the epoxy cures to clean out the holes Make two door inner hinges from plywood. On the left is a 1/32" ply cap piece that is epoxied to cover the slotted piece on the right. The right piece has a 1/32" base piece, a 1/16" x 1/16" end edge piece on the far side and a 1/32" x 1/4" wide piece on the left. Assemble the hinge Glue the hinge in place on the outside edge of the door as shown, with the thin spacer closest to the edge. Cap the assembly and clean up any excess glue. Make sure the slot is clean all the way through The door is slotted just over 1/8" so the Outer Hinge clears Door assembly connected to the Outer Hinge Make a hinge pin from 2-56 pushrod so it extends completely through and past the other end by at least 1/8" Apply epoxy to the Outer Hinge and install in the fuselage Clamp the assembly down and make sure the hinge is flush with the edge of the fuselage Install the door with the pin from the front. You may have to flex the door until it clears the opening. Note how wide the front outer hinge is...there is a 3/4" long piece of 1/8" wide Carbon Fiber rod under the narrow hinge to help support it and prevent breakage Make a 1/8" x 1/8" horn from ply using 1/16" ply to elevate the bottom Epoxy the ply horn in place as shown Bend a small piece of fine music wire to the shape below Install the wire through the ply horn, then curved down and use a screw to hold it in place. The door should now be able to "spring" open and closed. Squeeze the bend closer if the tension is too much, as the door should snap shut without a hard slam Round a piece of 3/8" square hardwood 1/2" long is off at the top into a half-moon shape. A 3/32" hole is drilled through the center Epoxy the piece to the frame under the outer side as shown. Note the position Tie a knot in one end of a piece of heavy round elastic cord, then run it through the hole as shown Make a wood block from 1/8" ply with a 1/32" top cover. Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the 1/8" square and drill a 1/16" hole in the center of the 1/32" square. Install the Sullivan #550 connector through the small hole, install the nut and glue the two pieces together. Glue the assembly in position as shown in the pic. Note the position of the elastic cord Adjust the length of the cord until the door closes completely and has little or no slack inside, then lock it down with a set screw. Turn the model carefully upright and if adjusted properly, the gear should fall out of the door under its own weight and lock down. Adjust as necessary the door tension and cord position. This completes the retract unit assmebly for the nosegear The supplied wood dowel used for the Elevator pushrod was warped, so a fiberglass pushrod was subtituted. Cut the rod to 15 1/2" long Drill one end of the rodper instructions supplied with the glass pushrod Install a 2-56 pushrod with a right angle bend through the pushrod cap and outward, then epoxy the black cap in the pushrod Repeat for the other end and install the 2-56 pushrod Bend a right angle at 1" from the end of one side, then install the clip as shown Center the rear of the Stab in the tail, then mark each side Adjust the front of the stab until both sides are equally spaced Draw the location of the stab Us a razor to cut and remove the covering just inside the vertical stab location. Remove covering from both the top and bottom of the stab Use an iron to seal the seam where your cuts were made Clean out the rear inside of the stab so it doesn't bind on the Elevator pushrod Slightly round the center of the Elevator control assembly with a dremel so it will not snag inside the vertical stab Make a bend as shown in the center horn and install the pushrod connector. Test fit the assembly and make sure it is centered when installed in the vertical stab. If not, make the bend shallower until there is no rubbing and the rods appear centered Install the Elevator control assembly into the fuselage as shown Rotate the control rods so the horn is visible in the large hole below the slot Measure and make marks on the rod at the stab so the assembly can be evenly centered during permanent installation Install and center the stab on the marks you made. Clean up the marks, then use thin CA on the top and bottom seams to glue the stab to the fuselage. Believe it or not, thin CA works great here Use an iron to seal the seams on each elevator. Slice the end down the center where the metal rod will install, then use the iron to make a divot for the rod Draw a center line down each of the four hinges Install the hinges in place up to the center lines Apply epoxy to each elevator rod hole with a toothpick Quickly install the elevator over the control rod and hinges. Clean up excess epoxy, then check movement and centering of hinges and apply thin CA to the top and bottom of each hinge to secure in place You should be able to find the elevator pushrod connector through the hole. Install the pushrod and clamp it down in the connector. I substituted a 3mm set screw for the bolt that was supplied Make an Elevator servo plate from scrap 1/8" ply and 3/8" square hardwood stick Trim away one side of the servo arm, then use a receiver or servo tester to center your servo and install the arm as shown Install the servo on the board with servo tape, then fit and epoxy the two hardwood blocks on the sides of the servo Install servo mounting hardware, grommets and finally mounting screws to secure it in place Drill out the end hole in the arm so the 2-56 rod will fit Center the servo once again before final installation Rough up the area for the servo plate inside the bottom rear of the fuselage Apply epoxy to the bottom of the plate and glue in place, making sure the servo arm is located near the pushrod Clamp the elevators even with the horizontal stab, then install the pushrod on the servo arm, loosen the rear set screw and adjust as needed Finish installing the air hose for the retracts A clamp is made for the forward hose Install the hose clamp as shown for the front wheel assembly A 1/8" ply Retract Control Panel is built from the templates Install all parts on the panel The panel should appear as shown. The bottom stick is made from 3/8" hardwood and 4-40 blind nuts are installed to mount the panel in he fudelage Rear view of panel Install the hardwood stick in place as shown with epoxy, then cut small wedges and epoxy them in the corners for support Connect the hoses to the supplied "T" fittings supplied in the retract kit The Retract Control Panel can be mounted in place with two 4-40 x 1" bolts as shown Install the air hose in the front retract assembly Build your fan units following the instructions supplied witht he fans, or go to www.warbirds-rc.com in the "Research Center" for step-by step instructions on assembling the most common fan assmeblies Elongate the opening for the power wires to make it easier to run Install the power wires from the inside of the fuselage Pull them out of the hole in the wing as shown Solder the connectors for your ESC to the wires Cut a 1/2" square opening along the aileron servo wire run as shown. Be careful to only cut through the balsa and not the servo wire Use some layers of tape to build up the front end of each fan for a tight fit into the intake tube Check the fit of the fan in the intake Install the exhaust ducting and tape in place once fitted to the fan and exit hole Use clear packing tape and a burnishing tool to finish the exhaust tube Make a mark on the thrust tube for the ESC wires Use two washers to sandwich the duct and cut out the hole for the wires Use a flat piece of carbon fiber or a small wire and run it from the retract area where the aileron servo wire exits through the hole you cut earlier Tape the ESC radio wires to the rod and carefully pull it through the hole Run the power wires and ESC servo wires through the hole in the exhaust tube. Install the power wires on the ESC and use heatshrink to hold them Slide the exhaust tube over the rear of the fan Install heavy clear packing tape to fasten the tube to the fan Use a razor to remove the excess exhaust tube from the rear Install four "L" shaped wires in the botom of each motor hatch as shown Some light sanding on the nacelle may be necessary for the wires to clear. The wires are bet slightly outward as a safety catch in case the magnetic retension fails Cover is installed in the motor opening Solder Deans connectors tot he power wires in the fuselage. Two batteries are used, one for each motor assembly. Add the heatshrink to the wires to protect the Deans Ultra Conmectors Cover the front and rear cockpit area with plastic Install the cockpit floor and tape it in place so it is centered, then epoxy the rear plate supplied in the kit to the cockpit floor. Tape in place until the glue dries Epoxy the front plate in place. A clamp is used to hold it while the epoxy sets Remove the cockpit assembly and sand the bottom to a smooth finish Cut two pieces of 1/8" thick ply about 1/4" wide and the length of the cockpit. The will be used as stiffeners along the outer sides of the fuselage cockpit area to remove bowing in the fiberglass. Epoxy the sticks in place under each side lip Install the cockpit and tape in place, then drill a 1/8" center hole as shown in the front cockpit plate Epoxy the supplied wooden dowel in place and check for fit Install the cockpit, then tape it centered in place and use a sanding block to shape the rear ply. Masking tape in installed on the fuselage to prevent scratching of the surface from the sandpaper Drill two holes in the corners for the cockpit magnets, then transfer the hole locations to the fuselage Use a dremel to remove the fiberglass but do not cut through the sidewall ply stiffeners as they will support the bottom of the magnets Apply epoxy tot he fuselage locations and glue in the magnets Apply clear tape across the bottom of the cockpit, under the holes Check polarity on the magnets against the ones glued in the fuselage, then epoxy the in the cockpit floor as shown Drill two 5/64" holes , one in each corner of the cockpit floor as shown to help with alignment. Glue two pieces of 2-56 pushrod in the cockpit wood as alignment pins A piece of 1/8" balsa is used as a base floor covering and is glued to the cockpit area Install a 12" servo extender and heatshrink the connection so it cannot come apart Cut a board to fit the receiver with 1/4" overlap on all sides Plug the servo wires in the receiver, then dress and tie wrap the wires. Drill two plate mounting holes along the front edge and through the fuselage Use some #2 screws to install the receiver plate behind the cockpit Coat the top of the screw heards with lead from a pencil. Install the cockpit and press down on the screws to transfer the hole locations to the cockpit bottom Drill out each hole so it clears the head of the respective screw Rough cut out the canopy with scissors Trim the canopy to fit, but be sure not to trim too much, especially on the forward sides as they need to cover the Cockpit floor Now is a good time to build a scale cockpit if you wish Apply masking tape along the bottom edges of the cockpit as shown Install the cockpit on the fuselage, then apply RC-56 canopy glue along both side edges Install the canopy and fold the tape upwards to hold it in place while the glue dries. You can tape down the front of the canopy to make sure it is flush with the front of the fuselage hump Antenna installation can vary depending on your radio. Shown is a method to install a semi-scale antenna. Drill a hole in the vertical stab using a 5/64" bit Once through, angle the drill forward and drill again through the stab. The first hole will allow the bit to remain in place and not slip while drilling Install one of the tailwheel wire rods from the tailwheel kit you used to wire the nosegear steering assembly. A piece of wie installed through the hole helps with the turning Drill a hole just behind the canopy and install a 1 1/2" long plastic tube from a WD40 oil can spray tube. Make sure your antenna can fit through the tube. The antenna for the Berg receiver fits perfectly Run your antenna through the fuselage, then through a tensioner shown in the next photo and tie it through the rod hole and cover it with a small piece of heatshrink slide the tensioner in place. it is made from a small wire, looped and sodered, then glued to a small diameter elastic string. Heatshrink covers the assembly Build a string mount from 5/16" dowel. coat in in CA, then sand and Drill a 1/16" hole down through the dowel. Drill a 3/32" hole in the side and tapit, then install a 4-40 set screw. Drill the bottom of the tube with a 3/32" bit about 1/8" deep, then install a piece of aluminum 3/32" OD tubing as a mount, making sure id does not sit so deep that it blocks the setscrew. Drill a hole in the fuselage for the tube, then epoxy the assembly in place. Install the eleastic through the top hole and down through the tube into the inside of the fuselage, adjust the tension and lock down the set screw Cut a piece of 1/64" ply and epoxy it in place as shown, applying epoxy only to the hinge Tape the area with stick side up under the hinge and ply, then apply epoxy to the top side of the hinge Install and position the door, then fold the tape up to hold it in place Tilt the door up and clamp the area while the epoxy sets. Repeat this procedure for the second door IF you plan on using a BEC, install it per instructions. Apply servo tape to the bottom and stick the BEC unit to an upper side walll in the cockpit area. Dress the wires and tie wrap them as necessary Install a battery, then turn on your radio and receiver. Set Elevator travel to 8mm up and down Set Aileron travel to 8mm up and 6-8mm down CG is located 85mm from the leading edge of the wing root. Mark the location on each wing so you can check CG in the field The door closing wire is bent to work as shown. Adjust the wire so the door closes and does not hang on the wire A wood block is cut and drilled through the top through the front of the bar at two locations for the inner fuselage door tensioning wires. It is glued in place as shown, then fine .020" wire is cut and routed to the door tubes as shown. These doors work similarly to the main nosegear door, so that they spring open and closed The batteries are installed in the very front sides of the model. Start by sanding the area for a velcro strap Cut four 10" long pieces of Velcro strap. This is the double sides strap with cloth on one side and hooks on the other Apply a thick coat of epoxy and fiberglass mil to the strap 2" from one end and about 3" long Slide the strap in place with the front edge just behind the rear of the steering servo tray. The glue holds the strap to the floor and side wall. Do not glue past the inner ply reinforcement and trim off any excess so the door can close At the rear, take a second strap and wrap it around a 4S battery. Apply a industrial self stick 1" wide strip of velcro hook to the bottom and side of the strap as shown. Install it in the fuselage from the cockpit, then when it is in place, remove the battey and lake sure the velcro is seated. Repeat these steps for the other battery The batteries are installed from the cockpit, moved forward and strapped in place from the nosewheel opening, then the rear straps are installed Air Power RA-260 Retracts shown in the down position The photo shows how the wheel closes the inner fuselage door on the mains Gear is shown in the retracted position Side view showing a slight nose high stance of the ME-262 Front view showing the Air Power Retracts and landing gear The HET-RC ME-262 twin EDF Jet with Airpower RA-260 Retracts from Warbirds-RC. The main assembly is completed and the model is ready to be painted in your choice of color schemes Paint your model in a color scheme of your choice A two tone leopard scheme was used for the build model Detail your cockpit as desired ME-262 Top View ME-262 Side View ME-262 Forward View ME-262 Front View of Gear ME-262 Side View of Gear ME-262 Gear Down ME-262 Gear Up ME-262 Side Profile The HET-RC ME-262 Swallow Twin EDF Jet This Website and all documents herin are Copyright © 2012 www.scalerocketry.com - All rights reserved.