HET-RC F-4 Phantom Build Instructions

The HET-RC F-4 Phantom Twin Minifan EDF as it comes from Markos at Warbirds-RC Opening the box reveals a well packed and rather large model Every that comes with the ARF is shown The F-4 Phantom assembly You should use an iron to remove any wrinkles in the finish The main spar is the first piece to be installed Dry fit the spar in place as shown, with the cut out sides pointing to the bottom side of the fuselage(pointing up in pic.) Also check for a slight bow in the spar; if present, install the spar so the outer ends bow toward the front of the fuselage Epoxy is applied to center of the spar right up to each notch Apply epoxy to the slot sides where the spar will be installed Install the spar as shown, noting cutouts in spar and position so the spar is centered and they are flush at each side of the fuselage Wiped off any excess epoxy with denatured alcohol and a paper towel A square is placed across the joint while the glue is still wet and the spar is pulled up on each side so it is flush to the bottom of the fuselage Once the spar is installed correctly, then centered and adjusted flush, allow the epoxy to set A strip of covering material supplied in the kit is used to cover the slot. Note that the model was recovered in the pics to a different color, so the colors may not match your kit, but the procedures are the same A hobby iron is used to install the strip of covering Main Spar assembly is shown completed Temporarily slide a wing on the spar Apply a piece of tape just in front of the leading edge of the wing Install the other wing and apply another piece of tape for it Position of tape as shown. Important: For the next steps, make sure your model is flush against the bottom of the table. You will need to hang the nose of the fuselage off the surface as it is lower than the fuselage bottom and can prevent the fuselage from sitting flush on the table With the fuselage flush against a hard surface, use a ruler and make a mark on the tape 10mm from the bottom of the table as shown Mark the other tape strip in the same manner, 10mm up from the surface A ruler is used to help align the wing to the mark. The bottom tip of the wing is at the 10mm position as shown When in position, press the wing down to make a dimple into the fuselage side, which marks the wood dowel position on the side of the fuselage Remove the wing and open the dowel mark with a 1/8" drill Install the wing and check for a good fit and correct wing alignment at the 10mm mark Some overhang of the wing trailing edge past the bottom of the fuselage is normal Use a marker and trace the wing root pattern on to the fuselage Remove the wing to reveal the wing root pattern Install the other wing and align it, then press down to mark the dowel position Remove the wing and drill the hole for the wing dowel pin Install the wing and check the alignment Trace the second wing root pattern on the fuselage Removing the wing shows the root pattern that was traced Cut the covering about 3/32" inside the drawn pattern for the wing Remove the material as shown Wing root covering removed Cut the second wing root area, being careful not to cut into the wood below Removed the excess covering Second wing root is exposed for gluing Use a small paper towel and denatured alcohol to remove the marker lines from the fuselage and wings Use an iron to seal the cut area to the fuselage on both sides Masking tape is applied 1/16" away from the inside root of both wings Masking is applied on both sides, top and bottom. This will aid in cleanup later on Mix up some 15-30 min epoxy and apply epoxy liberally to the wing slot for the main spar Apply epoxy to the entire wing root Epoxy is then applied to the main spar on all sides A thin coat of epoxy is applied to the fuselage wing root area Install the wing on the fuselage Clean up any excess epoxy with a paper towel and denatured alcohol Wing glued in place and waiting for epoxy to set A measurement is taken before the epoxy sets to insure the leading edge of the wing is 10mm from the bottom of the fuselage. Mix up some more 15-30 min epoxy and apply epoxy liberally to the wing slot for the second wing's main spar Apply epoxy to the root of the second wing Wing root with epoxy ready to assemble Next, apply a thick ammount of epoxy to the main spar Epoxy is also applied to the fuselage wing root area Install the second wing flush on the fuselage Clean any extra resin with an alcohol soaked towel Check alignment for the second wing with a leading edge of 10mm from the bottom of the fuselage Second wing installation completed. Allow some time for the epoxy to set Tape is applied to both surfaces 1/16" from the joint. This will make cleanup easier later Epoxy is applied at the joint A fillet is made at the joint, removing the excess epoxy The tape is removed and and additional cleanup is done with alcohol before the epoxy sets Epoxy is applied to the other bottom joint Once again, a fillet is made at the joint Tape is removed before epoxy sets The top is done similar to the bottom. Apply epoxy and make a small fillet at the joint Clean up any excess with alcohol Fillet shown completed and dried The other wing is done as shown with epoxy being applied at the joint. A small round stick makes a great fillet tool and the excess epoxy cleanly spills over on the tape The tape is removed before the glue sets The fillet is shown completed The root end of a horizontal stab is measured at 9/32" Trim off the excess at the measured line Stab shown trimmed Lightly sand the root so it is square The trailing piece is cut with a knife Trailing piece shown removed The two stabs are taped together, keeping the rear and leading edge even The second stab is trimmed using the other stab for reference Second stab shown trimmed The trailing tab is removed on the second stab as shown Remove the tape and lightly sand the root of the second stab Seal the trailing edge of each stab with an iron The hinges supplied in the kit were of poor quality with fabric missing. New Easy Hinges were substituted The center point is marked on each hinge Draw a line down the center of each hinge Install the hinges to center, opening up the slots with a knife if needed, then install the elevators Use a round file to angle the forward slot on the fuselage Fit the stab in the fuselage, making sure the forward slot is long enough for the rear to fit The rear should pivot and just fit in the slot Down throw will be 10mm, so make sure the elevator doesn't bind too early when flexed downward Mark the top of the fin for the fuselage location Mark the bottom of the fin for the fuselage location The stab is removed showing the marks that were made and the material is cut about 1/16" inside of the line Remove the material from the root Clean up the line drawn with denatured alcohol Bottom of the fin showing mark that was made Use a ruler to cut the covering 1/16" inside of the line Remove the excess covering Clean up the drawn line with alcohol Use an iron to seal both sides where the material was cut Install the stab to check for fit once more Use the hinges and install an elevator on the second stab File the front of the slot at an angle and continue until the stab fits well Draw a line on the top of the stab with a marker Another line is drawn on the bottom side of the stab The stab is removed and a ruler is used to cut about 1/16" inside the drawn line The ecesss covering is removed A ruler is used to cut the material on the top of the stab Excess material is shown removed Marker lines are cleaned up with alcohol Seal the covering with an iron, then install the second stab in the fuselage and check for fit Tape is applied above the slot to keep the covering clean when gluing the stab in place Apply a very thin coat of epoxy to each side of the stab at set aside to let it soak Apply epoxy to the top and bottom of the slot and to the two inside formers Install the stab into the slot. Note that the stab fits in so it is at a downward angle, which is normal Clean up any excess epoxy from the joint, both top and bottom Remove the tape before the glue sets Prepare the second stab slot with tape Apply a thin coat of eopxy to both sides of the stab Apply an ample ammount of epoxy to the top and bottom of the slot, as well as the two formers Install the second stab Remove excess epoxy with alcohol from the joint on both sides Remove the tape before the epoxy sets Quickly check alignment by placing the bottom of the fuselage on a flat surface and measure one stab as shown Check the other stab and make sure it is the same distance from the board. prop up one side before the epoxy sets if necessary so they measure evenly with eachother Stab installation completed as shown A good quality metal gear servo is used for the elevator and is shown with the servo tray parts supplied in the kit Center the servo with a receiver or servo tester Trim one end of a servo horn as shown Install the horn on the servo, making sure it is centered The selected servo is now slightly larger than the opening in the supplied servo tray. You may have to enlarge the opening to fit your make of servo The tray is marked evenly on each side to widen the opening just enough for the servo to pass through A tool is used to open up the hole. Files and some light sanding are used to finish the work The servo should easily fit through the opening as shown Epoxy is applied to the slot for the pushrod bracket Epoxy is applied to the vertical section of the bracket The to pieces are joined until they sit flush with eachother Some epoxy is added to create a fillet for strength Make sure the two pieces are perpendicular to eachother, then set aside while the glue sets Sand the bottom of the assembly flush with a sanding block The bottom of the slots are slightly enlarged for the pushrods Test a pushrod sleeve to make sure it fits well CA is used on the back side to stiffen the plywood Position the bracket so it is centered in the rear of the fuselage, just behind the seam in the balsa. Next, draw an outside line on each side to mark the position of the tray Lines shown drawn once the bracket is removed Apply epoxy to the bottom of the bracket Use some pliers to position the bracket in the fuselage. Make sure the front is even with the seam in the balsa floor as shown and that the sides are even with the marks you made earlier A mark is made for the center of the servo tray Drawn a line down the center of the tray through the marks A 1/2" square piece of balsa is inserted into the fuselage as a spacer The bottom of the block is pushed flush against the front edge of the pushrod bracket plate The servo tray is inserted into the fuselage The servo tray is pushed flush against the balsa block and centered as shown A screwdriver should be inserted to make sure you have clearance to get to the servo screws that will be installed Draw an outline of the tray in the floor of the fuselage remove the tray and seal the top section with CA where the servo screws will reside Allow the CA to dry A mark is made top and bottom 1/8" away from the centerline on the tray to space the servo so it is offset from center. This is so the horn will be centered instead of the servo A couple pieces of tape are stacked across the offset marks that were just made Add the grommets to the servo and install it in the tray. While holding it in place, mark the holes for the screws. NOTE: While a single servo is used for the elevators, you can also use dual servos for the elevators Use a punch to dimple the marks for the servo screw holes Use a 1/16" drill to make the holes for the servo screws A screw is used to initially "cut" threads in the tray Epoxy is applied to the bottom of the tray Use pliers to ease intallation of the tray in the fuselage Center the tray over the alignment marks made on the floor, then press it down in place The tray had some warping, so a weighted object is used to hold the tray down flsuh until the epoxy cures A ruler is placed across the two offset marks where the tape was placed earlier and a knife is used to cut the balsa. Make several passes and take your time A ruler is used to cut the other side, away from center and 1/2" wide or wide enough for the servo you are using. note that a single edge razor was installed in the first slot so the ruler could be pressed flush against it while cutting the second slot Be sure to cut completely through the sheeting at the corners as shown, then cut across flush to the tray and remove the balsa piece A 1/16" drill is used to re-open the screw holes, which most likely will have some epoxy in them The fuselage is turned over and CA is applied to the bottom area around the screw holes to strengthen them Install the servo in the fuselage Use the servo screws to permanently mount the servo in place Servo installation shown completed Fit three hinges in each of the two Elevators The horns supplied in the kit were discarded as they were too thin and flimsy 1/2A horns made for a good substitution Horn shown in place ...take note of the hole orientation and note that the horn will be mounted on the bottom of the elevator Use a 3/32" drill to open the holes in the balsa. Stiffen the holes with thin CA Install the horn on the bottom of each elevator. Be careful to not over tighten the bolts Trim and grind the excess thread length off from the bottom Seal the ends of the bolts on each elevator with a cap of thick CA so it won't snag or catch anything while handling The outside hinge requires some trimming to fit Install the elevator, opening the slots for the hinges if necessary with a razor, then use thin CA to glue them in place, Make sure the outer end is flush with the stab T pins are used to hold the hinges in place so they do not shift or twist when installed. Apply thin CA to both sides of the elevator hinges Install the second elevator the same as the first Elevator horns shown installed A piece of tape is applied to the side of the fuselage and a mark made the same height of the bottom of the pushrod bracket slot inside Make a mark on the side of the fuselage 3" from the front root of the stab Drill a 1/8" hole at the mark and about 1/16" below the edge of the fuselage as shown Use a long 1/8" drill bit like a file and turn it foward, gradually opening the hole at an angle and pointed slightly down toward the mark on the tape. Slowly drill a hole internally that is angled down toward the pushrod bracket Install the pushrod, then slide the pushrod sleeve over it and work it towards the bracket inside Remove the steel pushrod and check for alignment of the sleeve to the horn Pull the pushrod sleeve through the bracket as shown Remove the sleeve and use a knife to trim the excess covering Hole opening completed and the bare balsa can be touched with some paint to match the fuselage Re-install the pushrod sleeve from the front opening Trim the sleeve so it sits flush with the fuselage side. IT may be easier and safer to mark it, then remove it and trim against a hard surface so you don't damage the fuselage Remove and sand the sleeve to shape, then clean out the hole for the pushrod Move the plastic sleeve out of the way and apply some epoxy to the hole, then move the sleeve in place Remove any extra epoxy with alcohol and make sure the hole is clean Sleve shown epoxied in place Measure back 3" from the leading edge of the second stab Start a 1/8" drill hole about 1 1/6" from the top edge as shown Turn the bit and use it to file a hole toward the pushrod bracket that is located by the servo Install the pushrod from the rear Sand an angle on the end of the sleeve. The will lay flush against the rear exit hole Install the sleeve in the bracket and run it rearward, using the rod as a guide Pull the back of the sleeve away and add some epoxy to the hole, then move the sleeve over the hole and clean up any excess epoxy Trim the extra length off the front of each pushrod sleeve as shown Use some epoxy at the base of each sleve where they pass through the bracket Bend a Z-Bend at the end of two of the pushrods supplied in the kit The pushrod at the top was supplied in the kit, but it is too wide, as indicated by its height and this can cause play. Cut the end off and make a tighter Z-Bend as shown on the bottom rod Install a rod from the rear Loosen one bolt on the horn, then twist it sideways and install the pushrod in the outside of the horn Turn the horn in place and re-install the screw. Make sure the pushrod is on the outside of the horn as shown to prevent binding Install the second pushrod in the same manner as the first, making sure it enters the horn from the side away form the fuselage Both pushrods are installed in their correct position as shown Use the following connector for the elevator, as it has a wide enough hole and a threaded base Bend the left side pushrod wire toward the horn as shown Finish bending the pushrod wire toward the horn Both wires run parallel to each other and travel forward, right over the servo horn holes as shown Use clamps to hold both elevators at center position Make a mark on each wire for cutting Cut each wire at the mark, then sand/grind away any burrs so they pass through the connector Remove the servo horn Drill a hole out with a 1/16" drill so the connector will fit Install the pushrod connector Use some CA to secure the nut to the bottom of the connector Slide the pushrod connector over both pushrods as shown. Install the horn on the servo and secure it with the horn bolt Appy some Loktite to the connector bolt Install the bolt in the connector and tighten. This completes the elevator assembly Install the hatch with the two supplied screws Low profile metal gear wing servos are used for the ailerons Remove the mounting ears from each of the two servos Use a knife and cut into the indented servo well in the wing area Iron the cloth out of the way on the inner side and bottom Place the servo over the opening and mark its size on the wing Use a ruler and draw the hole that needs to be cut for the servo Use a ruler and cut out the wing area at the marks that were made Remove the pieces that were cut and clean out the servo well. Lightly sand the balsa bottom of the well to smooth it out Use a ruler or mixing stick to push out the foam so the servo wire can be run Install the servo wire as shown Install the servo in the wing well and trim the opening as necessary for a nice fit 1/2A horns and 2-56 Clevis' were purchased to replace the parts that were supplied. Once again, do not use the wood horns in the kit Medium to Thick CA is used to paint a thin film on the bottom of the servo well in the wing Once dried, sand the area smooth with 320 grit and clean up the dust with denatured alcohol The bottom of the servo is cleaned with acetone A piece of servo tape is applied to the bottom of the servo area that was just cleaned. DO NOT REMOVE the bottom servo tape backing yet The servo is inserted into the well in the wing and marks are made 1/8" beyond each side of the servo arm center hub to allow for travel A 3/16" wide slot is cut out for the servo arm as shown Remove the excess material and balsa The servo is installed and held in place with masking tape The servo arm is checked for clearance and travel. Elongate or widen the slot if necessary Remove the servo arm, then center the servo using a tester or your receiver Install the arm to the center position and use the servo bolt to hold it in place Remove the backing from the servo tape install the servo in the wing well, making sure to position it correctly. You can hold on to the arm from the other side while making small adjustments When centered, press the servo firmly in place The servo arm should be centered on the other side of the wing as shown Servo installation is now completed Two servo covers are made from 1/32" ply and cut to a size of 2 1/8" x 1 3/4". Thin CA is applied to the corners on both the top and bottom to prevent splintering when drilled for mounting screws Sand the corners on both sides to a smooth finish The servo hatch covers are covered with material to match the bottom of the wing Make punch marks about 1/8" from each corner for both servo hatch covers Use a 1/16" drill to open the holes for the screws Mounting screws included with the servos are used for the covers and threads are started before mounting Cover position is marked by centering it over the hatch and using a piece of tape to help mark alignment. Do this for both directions The cover is placed in position, then the screws are used to tap threads into the balsa. Once completed, remove the cover and touch each thread in the wing with a drop of CA to strengthen the hole and allow the CA to dry Final installation of the Servo Hatch Cover is shown Another set of 1/2A horns and Clevis' will be used for the Ailerons The second aileron well is measured and cut so the servo fits The bottom of the servo well is sanded, then a mixing stick is used to clear the path for the servo wires The servo fit is tested, making sure there is enough clearance for the horn The bottom area is painted wit a thin coat of CA, then sanded smooth Measurements are drawn for the horn exit hole, then the hole is cut out with a sharp knife The servo is centered using a tester or your receiver. Once centered, install the horn and retaining washer/bolt Clean the bottom side of the servo with acetone A piece of servo tape is installed on the servo The servo tape backing is removed The servo is installed, making sure the horn is centered in the slot you cut. Press down to insure a good bond Install the screws on the second cover The cover is installed in place over the servo Aileron servo installation is shown completed Center marks are drawn on the six very nice aileron hinges supplied in the kit Install three hinges in an aileron as shown Place the aileron over its location and mark the hinge locations on the fuselage. make sure there is clearance for free movement on both sides Open the slots with a knife if needed Install the Aileron in place. Pins are used to prevent the hinges from moving during install Thin CA is applied to permanently mount the aileron. Make sure there is enough throw without binding before gluing the hinges in place Excess glue is wiped off and CA is applied to the hinges from the other side of the wing Prepare the second Aileron install the retaining pins Mark the hinge locations, open them up if necessary, then install the aileron Flex the aileron downward to insure ample throw without binding, then glue the hinges in place on both sides with thin CA A mark for the Aileron horn is made as shown. Keep the ruler parallel to the side of the fuselage A second outer mark was made so the aileron horn would fit between them Threads are marked to be shortened on two 2-56 pushrods Pushrods are cut to length as shown Then end of each pushrod is screwed on the plastic clevis. A drill makes this go faster the clevis is locked on the horn The horn is positioned, then a drill hole is made A bolt is installed in the first hole to keep the horn aligned while the second hole is drilled Both bolts are installed for the horn. Be sure not to over tighten The excess bolt is cut short on the underside, then capped with thick CA for safety The second horn is installed in the same manner. Note that longer, 3/4" x 2-56 bolts need to be purchased and used as the ones that came with the clevis' are too short cap the second set of bolts with a mound of CA Install a clevis on an Aileron horn, then center the servo and clamp the Aileron as shown so it is held to center. Mark the hole location for the z-bend Make two identical pushrods as shown Install each pushrod and adjust while the aileron is clamped to center and the servo is set to center position Aileron installation shown completed Nosecone was painted white for a more scale appearance The rear motor area of the fuselage is touched up with flat black paint The tailcones were sanded on the outside and at each end to smooth them out Each tailcone was painted with flat dark gray Testors Model Masters spray paint A magazine was used to hold the tailcone, then a piece of paper was wrapped around and taped. It was then removed, folded in half and then each half was folded in thirds and pencil marks were made at all 12 points. It was then slid back over the magazine as shown Thin strips of Monokote were cut and applied, then the ends were trimmed The inside of each tailcone was painted flat black A section of chrome self stick Monokote was lightly sanded, then two 1/4" wide strips were cut about 10" long The chrome strips were applied to the tailcones as shown for a more realistic look The inside lip of the nosecone is roughed up with 60 grit sandpaper for better glue adhesion Tape is used to prevent overspill of glue that could ruin the finish. Five minute epoxy is applied to the inside lip of the nosecone The nosecone is installed on the front of the fuselage and held vertically until the glue set The inside lip of each tailcone is roughed up with 60 grit sandpaper for better glue adhesion Epoxy is applied to the inside of each tailcone and they are installed as shown Tailcone installation completed Parts required for each power plant You will be making two power plants, so do them together. Plugs are soldered to each motor Heatshrink is placed on each wire as shown Sockets are installed on each ESC Heatshrink is applied to prevent shorting of the leads A Power wire is made for each battery connection, with one end connecting to the ESC, while the other end has a Deans Ultra plug installed for each battery Heatshrink is installed on each plug Two fan units are assembled at the same time. HET-RC fans were used, so if you use another type of fan, follow your manufacturer's assembly instructions Loktite is applied with a toothpick ONLY to the threads on the motor. DO NOT apply Loktite anywhere it could come into contact with the fan as it can attack the plastic in the housing. Never apply Loktite to the bolt threads Clean up all excess Loktite. Green Loktite is prefered as it is plastic safe Motor alignment is temporarily checked The supplied heatsink from the fan unit is installed on the back of the motor. You may have to heat it with a torch lighter if the fit is too tight Install the motor in the fan assembly Push down on the heatsink so it sits flush on the back of the motor housing. The inside lip on the heatsink fits inside the rear of the plastic motor shroud Tighten the 3.5mm motor mount bolts The shaft adapter is installed over the motor shaft Check each fan rotor for balance. HET-RC fans come pre-balanced, but I had one that was just a bit off Apply Loktite to the threads of the shaft adapter The rotor is placed over the shaft adapter The retaining bolt in installed Hold the rotor and tighten the shaft adapter bolt. Make sure the inside back of the fan rotor is spaced far enough away from the housing so it doesn't bind when tightened. This completes the Fan Unit assembly A 1 1/2" long piece of heatshrink is placed over all three ESC leads The motor is plugged in to the ESC leads and the heatshrink is used to hold them together Tie wraps are used to dress the cabling for each fan unit Both Fan units are shown completed and ready to install in the fuselage The ESC isinstalled in the rear of the fuselage so the fan will clear the opening The fan is installed in the fuselage intake duct Wires are temporarily run inside the fan to ease assembly of the exhaust ducts A thrust tube pattern was printed from the HET-RC site and used to cut out the pattern for each thrust tube sheet that was supplied in the kit. The tail was left extra long so it could be custom fit The thrust tube shown cut from the pattern It is inserted through the tailcone to the fan area Masking tape is used to temporarily hold it in place tight against the back of the fan and expanded against the inside of the tailcone at the rear A stick helps fold the tube for easy extraction 1" wide strips of clear packing tape are used inside and out to permanently seal the seam and a stick is used to push the tape down on the inside The thrust rube is inserted in the fuselage and a mark is made for the location of the ESC wires The tube is removed and two washers sandwich the tube and are used as a cutting guide for a wiring exit hole The thrust tube is inserted back in the fuselage and the wires are fed through the hole The thrust tube is then slide on the rear of the fan unit Power wires Deans Connector end is fed through the hole to the cockpit area A piece of heatshrink is slid over the power wires The power wires are connected to the ESC connectors A tie wrap is used to align the connectors, then Heatshrink tubing is installed over the two connectors A 3/4" piece of packing tape is used to bond the thrust tube to the rear of the fan shroud The thrust tube is cut flush to the rear of the tailcone The second fan thrust tube is built and installed just as the first Rear of fuselage showing completed fan assemblies and thrust tubes The hatch is temporarily installed to check for fit A 1/2" boring bit is used to cut an exit hole for the servo wires. You can also use a sharp knife Cut the hole between the fans as shown Excess balsa cap is removed from the top side in front of the Elevator servo Feed the servo wires through the hole Clear silicon is used to bond the fan units in place. It can be cut away if access is ever needed Fans are now fastened to the intakes Two balsa strips that are 1" x 3/8" x 3/16" thick were made to support the cover, which was bowed in the middle Balsa strips are glued in place with CA to help hold flush the bowed center of the hatch cover The hatch cover is installed A tie wrap is used to anchor the bottom entrance of the servo wires Two "Y" connectors are required, one for the Aileron servos and one for the ESC's The two Aileron servo leads are installed A large piece of heat shrink tubing is used to prevent the connectors from coming apart The center red wire lead is removed from only one of the ESC's as the receiver needs to only be powered by one ESC. Use a knife as shown to pry up the end of the plastic clip that is holding in the connector The red wire has been removed Heat shrink is used to cover the connector so it won't snag or become damaged Another piece of heatshrink is used to dress up the wire Connect both ESC's to the other "Y" connector The receiver antenna will exit the bottom rear of the fuselage, so a small punch is used to mark the location A 1/8" long drill is used to make a hole The drill should just exit the rear slot as shown A wire is used as a guide and the antenna sleeve is installed Use a screwdriver to push it down and to the side of the receiver location A small piece of 3/16" thick balsa is cut to make an anchor for the antenna sleeve and CA is used to glue it to the sleeve The front of the sleeve is glued in place with CA as shown The end of the sleeve is cut flush to the fuselage Baby Powder is used to lubricate the antenna wire so it slides easily through the sleeve The wire is fed through until it begins to exit The antenna wire is then pulled out the end Two layers of servo tape were applied to the back of the receiver The receiver was installed in place. Note that 1/8" of the upper balsa angle in the fuselage needed to be removed so it would sit flush to the side wall A 1/8" hole is drilled for a retaining dowel The servo wires are plugged into the receiver Wire ties are used to dress the assembly, then they are fed forward into the fuselage The retaining dowel is installed as shown, then cut flush with the top of the shelf. Do not glue the dowel in place The dowel is used to hold the receiver servo wires away from the Elevator pushrods Receiver installation is completed Install the access cover Label your power connectors for each motor for easy identification The intake streamers are held in place and a mark is made on the bottom of each streamer as shown A 1/16" piece of plywood is used to make some spacer plates It is important to note the grain direction. One of the streamers were warped and by using a cross grain, it will stiffen and straighten them out Make two spacer plates as shown. The spacer plates should be cut 3/16" shorter than the front and sides of the streamer exposed areas and the rear should sit flush with the streamer rear The outline of the spacer is drawn on the streamer. Note the 3/16" clearance on the front (shown left) and sides Gray paint is used to color the area of each streamer plate that will be exposed Double sided poster tape is applied to the spacer. Make sure the spacer plate is in the correct position as shown The assembly is held together and installed in place A marker is used to transfer the outline of the spacer to the side of the fuselage Cut about 1/16" inside the line that was drawn. Be careful to only cut the covering and not the balsa Remove the excess covering Draw lines can be cleaned with denatured alcohol and a paper towel A thin coat of epoxy is applied to each of the streamers and spacer plates. Be careful to make sure you are applying epoxy to the correct side of the spacer plate, which is the side that faces the streamer The spacer plate is positioned correctly on the streamer. The assembly is weighted down while the epoxy sets; this will help straighten out any warping Epoxy is applied to the plate Position the streamer flush sgainst the intake Tape and clamps are used to hold the streamer in place while the epoxy sets The other side is completed in the same manner as the first Streamers shown installed Use a knife to remove excess covering from the bottom of the vertical stab Check your stab on a flat board and make sure it sits flat. Repair any bowing by bending the piece straight and shrnking with a heat gun The bottom of the stab may need to be sanded for a good fit Check for no gaps at the fuselage joint Install the stab and trace its shape on the fuselage with a marker Cut the covering inside the pattern line for the stab Remove the covering from the fuselage The marker lines can be cleaned up with denatured alcohol The stab seams are sealed with an iron Masking tape is applied to the fuselage to keep it clean of excess epoxy Masking is also appied to both sides of the stab and it is ready for epoxy 15 minute epoxy was used and applied to the bottom of the vertical stab Epoxy is also applied to the fuselage Install the stab in place Excess epoxy is cleaned with alcohol Use a square to check stab alignment Remove the tape and clean up any additional epoxy before it sets Masking can be used to hold the vertical stab perpendicular to the surface Vertical stab installation shown completed A T-Pin is pushed through the pin hole in the towhook hardwood block to locate the hole under the covering on the outside The hole is drilled with a 5/64" bit Rough up the side of the towhook that will be glued. Slightly bend the hook to an outward angle so the towline will easily drop off A toothpick is used to apply epoxy to the hole and hook The towhook is installed in the fuselage. Do not install it too deep; the top of the towhook should just exit the hardwood block inside Towhook shown installed. Insure it is pointing straight back Appy epoxy to one side of the small piece of plywood for the cockpit This plate is installed as shown, with it centered and the rear flush to the opening in the frame A second piece shown on the left was cut from 1/16" ply as wide as the first piece and 1 1/4" long. Epoxy is applied to the first piece for fastening The second ply plate is installed flush at the opening and even with the sides so it can hook under the front of the fuselage cockpit area Center the shelf with the front of the fuselage, then mark and drill a 1/8" hole in the center of the plate as shown Apply epoxy to a 1/8" wooden dowel and insert it into the hole so it slightly protrudes out the bottom of the fuselage Once the epoxy sets, space the dowel with a ruler and cut it flush as shown Open up the hole in the shelf so it is a slot and fit it to the dowel. This will keep the front of the cockpit centered when installed Tape is applied to the short cockpit piece This plate is secured in place as shown Install the cockpit ply shelf in place and make sure it is centered in the front and rear, then hold both rear pieces together with one hand and drill through both holes with a 1/8" bit Two 1/8" wood dowels are cut about 3/4" long and inserted in the small plate. Apply epoxy to the small plate and use the dowels as guides to connect it to the cockpit shelf The two pieces are clamped together until the glue sets, then the dowels are cut and sanded flush on both sides The shelf is hooked in the front and should drop in place at the rear. Draw a center line at the rear of the shelf Make a mark with a punch about 3/8" from the end Use a 3/16" drill and make a hole through both pieces Remove the shelf and cut the hole to a rectangle so the magnet is a nice and tight fit Install the shelf, make sure the front of it is centered and transfer the rectangle shape to the fuselage opening A piece of masking tape is applied to the bottom of the shelf, then epoxy is applied to the edges with a toothpick. Install the magnet flush to the tape and apply epoxy to the top to fill the hole. The toothpick can be used to insure the magnet is pushed down and seated flush with the tape once the epoxy sets, remove the tape and clean the bottom exposed surface of the magnet Cut a 1/2" square piece of ply, then apply epoxy to the ply square and hole in the fuselage. Masking can be used to hold the ply square in place underneath the hole inside as shown. Check the magnet direction with the one on the shelf, then install it in the opening in the correct direction. The shelf is used to make sure the magnet is flush to the top of the fuselage The magnet is now installed flush with the top of the fuselage. Clean up any excess epoxy with alcohol Tape is a nice tool to use when marking an outline of the canopy shape for cutting Cut out the canopy as shown, leaving a little extra for fitting. Sand the edges and deburr them until the canopy fits well Install a piece of plastic wrap in the fuselage area and cut a slot in the plastic for the front hook so it can engage. Detail the cockpit if you wish before fastening the canopy. Use canopy glue or clear silicon to attach the canopy to the cockpit. Masking can be used to hold the canopy sides to the cockpit. This completes the cockpit installation Set the Elevator throws for 10mm up and down Set the Aileron throws for 10mm up and 5mm-10mm down Make balance marks for CG on the fuselage. CG is at 150mm from the front leading edge if the wing Make a tray for your battery packs. A thin ply plate and velcro works well. Position the plate in the fuselage for good balance with the batteries in place and glue the tray in the fuselage This completes the basic build of the HET-RC F-4 Phantom A Detailed Cockpit was built as shown. It can add some realism to the model Rulers are used to keep decals aligned during application Some decals are cut letter by letter for realism, using masking tape to keep them spaced correctly Finished front end decals are shown Top View. The F-4 in the pics was recovered in Dove Gray Monokote Side View. Once all decals are applied, Testors Clear Dullcoat paint was used to flat out the Monokote for a more realistic military look The HET-RC F-4 Phantom Twin Minifan EDF Jet This Website and all documents herin are Copyright © 2012 www.scalerocketry.com - All rights reserved.