HET-RC F-20 Tigershark Build Instructions

1 - The F-20 as it comes in the box. 2 - The HET-RC ARF Minifan 480 sized F-20 Tigershark shown out of the box 3 - The major components of the model are shown. It is very similar to the HET-RC FA-18 in construction and covering Tigershark. 4 - The model comes complete with pre-strung red cord wire pullers CG. 5 - The Elevator area shows bolt mounts for easy alignment 6 - The fan area with blind nuts pre installed for fan mounts 7 - The other end of the red cord wire pullers. These ports are used for Aileron servo leads, ESC power wires and Receiver antenna 8 - Shown is a view of the ducting area from the end of the model 9 - Aileron Servo bays come already cut under the covering 10 - The wing cord is 13/16" thick, which makes it a good candidate for Retracts 11 - Time to build...Start by trimming away the covering from the Wing Spar and Aileron Servo holes 12 - Clear the holes of covering 13 - Insert wing spar with the angled edge facing downward in the fuselage. It is keyed inside so you can't get it wrong 14 - Temporarily install the wing 15 - Rig a ruler to measure wing position 16 - Build up a piece of masking tape with about 4-5 layers. This will be used as an anchor for the wing root position 17 - The rear of wing is positioned 1MM from the bottom of the fuselage. Place some "built up" masking tape on the side of the fuselage to keep the wing from shifting up (left) 18 - The wing is supposed to be 1mm up from the fuselage at the rear (left), then flush against the bottom where it's chord dips (left of thumb) and then it curves upward to a center of 10mm at leading edge 19 - Use a marker to draw the position of the spar 20 - Your wing position should appear as shown 21 - Cut the covering inside the mark so the wing can be mounted to the fuselage 22 - Remove the covering 23 - Open up the aileron servo hole 24 - Remove the marker with alcohol 25 - The side should be clean and ready for wing mounting 26 - Use an iron to seal the edges of the covering 27 - Apply epoxy to the exposed area and wing spar slotted hole 28 - Apply epoxy to the wing root and spar. Note that due to the much wider wing chord, holes need not be drilled in the wing 29 - Install the wing on the fuselage 30 - Pin the rear of the wing to hold the position at 1mm from the bottom and hold it up against the masking tape jig. Also note the wing is flush to the bottom of the fuselage near the center. Leave it like this until the epoxy cures. 31 - Install the wing. The wing has a slight dihedral, so it is ok if it seems to lean slightly upward 32 - Remove excess epoxy with alcohol before it sets 33 - Once the wing set, use extra epoxy to fill any small gaps. Remove the excess with a paper towel dampened in alcohol 34 - Position the other wing and mark the chord 35 - Remove the excess covering 36 - Open up the aileron wire hole and iron the edges 37 - Apply epoxy to the wing saddle on the fuselage, as well as the spar 38 - Pin the rear of the wing to hold the position at 1mm from the bottom and hold it up against the masking tape jig. Also note the wing is flush to the bottom of the fuselage near the center. Leave it like this until the epoxy cures. 39 - The vertical Stab spar was not shaped correctly, so trim it to a taper at the forward section. TIP: you can re-use old pieces of covering removed from wing chord to cover the re-shaped areas 40 - The stab spar is shaped as shown 41 - Mark the top of the fuselage for vertical stab installation 42 - The mark should appear as shown 43 - Mark the forward section of the fuselage at the center of the turtle deck 44 - Draw a line from the turtle deck mark to the rear mark on the fuselage 45 - Your center line should appear as shown 46 - Cut the covering about 1/8" wide on each side of the center line 47 - Remove the covering 48 - Use an iron to seal the edges 49 - Trim the stab covering 1/2" from the bottom of the stab 50 - Remove the covering 51 - Seal the edges of the covering with an iron 52 - Mark the front of the stab so it is installed in the proper direction 53 - Test fit the stab in the stake 54 - Use a knife to hold the stake open and apply epoxy to the inside of the stake 55 - Apply epoxy to the inside of the stake rather than on the Vertical Stab. This will keep the upper seam clean and free of glue when the Stab is inserted 56 - Insert the vertical stab into the stake and position it so it is flush to the bottom of the stake 57 - Clamp the stake in place and use alcohol to clean up the excess epoxy 58 - Allow the epoxy to set and insure the front stake modification is at the front of the stab 59 - Make a mark at the underside of the center of the vertical stab 60 - Use pins to help keep the fin aligned as shown and check the fit 61 - Apply epoxy to the bottom of the stab and on the fuselage 62 - Place the vertical stab assembly in position on the fuselage and pin it in place. Use a square to align the stab perpendicular to the fuselage top 63 - Use a pencil to locate and punch through the pre-drilled holes in the horizontal stab 64 - Position the stab above its location 65 - Install the supplied bolts into the stab holes 66 - Temporarily install the horizontal stab 67 - Use a marker to mark the location of the fuselage sides on the stab 68 - Cut about 1/16" on the inside of each line 69 - Remove the center covering...SAVE THIS COVERING! It can be reused to cover Aileron covers later in the assembly 70 - Remove the marker lines with alcohol 71 - Seal the edges of the covering with an iron 72 - The horizontal stab is ready to install 73 - Trim the excess covering away from the horizontal stab edges on the bottom of the fuselage 74 - Remove the covering that was trimmed fromt he top and front of the stab 75 - Seal the edges of the covering 76 - Apply epoxy to the bottom edges of the fuselage 77 - Apply epoxy to the trailing edge of the horizontal stab 78 - Install the stab on the fuselage 79 - Use the stab bolts to hold it in place while the epoxy sets. Check alignment of the stab 80 - Position the stab so it is flush against the rear lip of the Fuselage, then use pins to hold the Stab down to the Fuselage edges...this is important...make sure the fit is flush with no gaps 81 - Remove excess epoxy from the bottom 82 - Remove epoxy from the fuselage joint 83 - Horizontal stab installation is completed 84 - Drill the fuselage front former for the antenna tube 85 - Drill a hole in the rear firewall former for the antenna tube. 86 - The position of the antenna hole is shown 87 - Drill a 1/8" hole in the rear of the fuselage for the antenna tube 88 - Locate the red pull wires and tape them out of the way to the bottom of the fuselage 89 - Install the antenna wire tube from the front 90 - Ties the receiver antenna wire to a string 91 - Pull the antenna to the front canopy area using the string 92 - slide the antenna tube rearward over the wire. Mark the front of the tube for trimming 93 - Trim the antenna tube to length 94 - Complete the antenna installation 95 - Rough up the inside of the nose with 60 grit sandpaper 96 - The inside lip should be sanded as shown 97 - Apply epoxy to the front edge of the fuselage 98 - Apply epoxy to the inside lip of the nose 99 - Install the nose on the front of the fuselage 100 - Remove any excess epoxy with alcohol 101 - Position the fuselage vertically until the epoxy sets 102 - The airframe build is completed 103 - Make sure you have all of the parts you need to complete the electronics 104 - Tie the black wire to the string 105 - Pull the wire to the rear 106 - TTape the red wire to the black and pull them the rest of the way through to the rear 107 - The power wires should exit the hole as shown 108 - Tin the end of both wires 109 - Solder 3.5mm female barrel connectors to each wire. Always install the sockets on the powered side so there are no plugs that can short together 110 - Use heat shrink to cover the sockets 111 - Complete the installation for both wires 112 - Install 3.5mm female bullet connectors on the powered side of the ESC and add heat shrink 113 - Install male connectors to the motor leads 114 - Apply heat shrink to cover the motor plugs 115 - The motor is shown completed 116 - Balance the fan rotor 117 - Use 3mm x 6 bolts to mount the motor 118 - Place the shaft adapter on the motor shaft 119 - Use the supplied set screw to apply just enough drag to allow the adapter to be moved up and down the shaft under some pressure 120 - Install the motor in the fan shroud 121 - Temporarily install the 3mm bolts to hold the motor in place 122 - Install the fan and push down until the fan bottoms out on the shroud area surrounding the motor 123 - Using your fingers, push against the fan to keep it bottomed out on the Shaft Adapter. Pull the Adapter out slightly to give about a 1/16" clearance between the rear of the fan and the front of the motor housing at the edges. This spacing will prevent the fan rear from rubbing against the motor housing 124 - Carefully remove the fan 125 - Remove the motor from the fan taking care not to disturb the shaft position 126 - Apply Loctite to the set screws and install them in the shaft adapter 127 - Once the set screws are tightened, use a Q-Tip to remove any excess Loctite 128 - Apply Locktite to the motor threads with a toothpick. Never apply Blue Locktite to the bolt threads, or it can attack the plastic in the shroud. Another solution is to use "Green" plastic safe Locktite 129 - Install the motor in the fan shroud 130 - Install and tighten the motor screws 131 - Install the fan on the adapter shaft 132 - Install the washer 133 - Install the aluminum nut finger tight 134 - Push the shaft through a piece of paper, then a slot is cut dead center in the shaft with a Dremel. The paper is used to keep any filings away from the motor while cutting 135 - The slot should be cut about 3/16" deep in the threaded adapter 136 - Use a flat bladed screwdriver and wrench to tighten the fan nut 137 - The fan assembly is completed 138 - Slide a 2" long piece of heat shrink over the three motor wires 139 - Connect the ESC wires to the motor 140 - Temporarily connect the receiver and motor and test the fan direction. If it is spinning the wrong direction, swap any two wires 141 - Once you checked motor direction, Finish heat shrinking over the connectors to hold them in place 142 - Motor leads should look as shown 143 - Tie wrap the ESC in place so the assembly is semi-aerodynamic 144 - A top view of the assembly is shown 145 - Install the fan assembly in the fuselage 146 - If you have difficulty sliding the fan into the duct, slightly bell the mouth of the duct with some fine sandpaper. Pic shows supplied mounting bolts being installed. Note the inside where balsa was cut away on the sides so the fan could be installed 147 - Apply double sided tape to the bottom of the receiver 148 - Install the bottom cover plate with screws, then used a ruler through the rear of the fuselage to position the receiver and push it down in place. Note that it has clearance so the Crystal and leads will not interfer with the duct tube 149 - Remove the bottom cover screws 150 - The cover shows receiver placement. This is a good location as the receiver is not blocking access to the Fan Assembly 151 - Temporarily connect the HS81 servo to the receiver and turn on the radio to center the servo 152 - Install the servo arm on the servo 153 - Make a 1/32" thick plate with the dimensions shown for mounting the elevator servo 154 - Cut away the wood spar as shown to make room for the elevator servo 155 - Apply epoxy to the servo plate and install it in place 156 - Use clamps to hold the plate in place while epoxy sets. Note the plate edge is about 1/4" away from the ply supports near the fuselage opening 157 - The plywood plate is shown installed 158 - Coat the plate with thin CA glue 159 - Once the glue is dried, lightly sand to a "plastic" feel for a good servo tape bond. Be sure to clean the plate with denatured alcohol before mounting the servo 160 - Clean the side of the servo with alcohol 161 - Install double-sided servo tape on the side of the elevator servo 162 - Drill a 1/16" hole in the servo arm to open it up for the pushrod 163 - Install a Sullivan Pushrod Connector #550 on the servo arm 164 - Add a drop of CA on the bottom threads so the nut will not come loose 165 - Install the servo in the fuselage 166 - The servo is shown installed 167 - Install a Sullivan Clevis on the pushrod 168 - Cut down the elevator horn one hole as it is too long 169 - Install the pushrod on the elevator horn 170 - Mark the pushrod to length 171 - Cut the pushrod at the mark 172 - Make a mark on the pushrod for bending, 1/2" from the servo arm center 173 - Bend the pushrod to shape 174 - Center the servo and elevators, then install the pushrod and lock it in place with the screw 175 - The photo shows pushrod clearance 176 - The fuselage rear assembly is completed and ready for ducting 177 - Temporarily mount the tailcone 178 - Use masking tape to hold it in place 179 - Dura Lar is found at the craft Hobby Lobby stores and a roll sells for about ten dollars. I use the heavier .005 mil rolls and it makes excellent ducting 180 - Cut a duct sheet to 12" x 10" 181 - Roll the sheet and install it in the rear of the fuselage. Push it up against the fan shroud and mark the shroud mount locations for cutting 182 - Remove 3/8" squares from the sheet 183 - Fit the duct and mark the other side 184 - Cut the second mount out of the sheet 185 - Re-insert the duct over the fan shroud and make a center mark 186 - The seam should be adjusted so it is at the top of the fuselage and out of sight 187 - Mark the rear of the duct at the end 188 - Use heavy duty clear packing tape to assemble the duct sheet 189 - Tape the duct to shape 190 - Fold the duct as shown and install it in the fuselage 191 - A wood dowel can be used to ease installation 192 - Mark the tail end for cutting 193 - Trim the tail to length 194 - Make a mark on the duct for the ESC wires 195 - Sandwich the duct with a washer on each side. Holding both washers tight, cut a perfect hole. 3/8" washers were used 196 - Install the duct and feed the ESC wires through the hole 197 - Plug the ESC wires into the power harness 198 - Cut a 3/4" wide of clear packing tape and use it to hold the duct to the shroud 199 - The duct should be taped as shown 200 - Install the ESC receiver wire 201 - The duct is shown installed 202 - Remove the tail cone 203 - Rough up the inside of the tail cone with 60 grit sandpaper 204 - The tailcone should be roughed up about 1/2" deep in the tailcone 205 - Add epoxy to rear of the fuselage. As an alternative, you could use clear rtv silicon sealer in four spots so tailcone could be removed later if ever needed 206 - Apply epoxy to the inside of the tail cone 207 - Install the tailcone on the rear of the fuselage and position the fuselage vertically while the glue sets 208 - Mark the center on each hinge 209 - Draw centerlines down the hinges 210 - Install a hinge 1/2" from the inside end of each aileron 211 - Use pins to hold the hinges in place 212 - Install an aileron on the wing 213 - Make sure both ends are evenly spaced from the wing side area 214 - Push the aileron down at least 15mm to allow it to space itdelf from the root 215 - Use thin CA to glue the hinges. Apply CA from both the top and bottom and immediately clean up any drops of glue 216 - Remove the pins and iron out the holes 217 - Install the second aileron as the first 218 - Use thin CA to glue in the second aileron 219 - Install and pin hinges in the elevator 220 - Space a hinge 1/2" from the control wire 221 - Use pins to hold the hinges in place 222 - Install the elevator 223 - Make sure the tip of the elevator is flush with the horizontal stab 224 - Push the elevator down at least 15mm to allow it to space itdelf from the root. Glue the hinge in place 225 - Install hinges in the second elevator 226 - Make sure the elevator is flush at the end 227 - Apply thin CA to glue the hinges 228 - Cut open the Aileron servo area in the wing. Open it up id necessary to fit your servo 229 - Use an iron to seal the edges of the servo bay 230 - Sand the wing sheeting with 100 grit sandpaper 231 - Use thin CA to coat and strengthen the bay bottom 232 - Use wire or string routed to the receiver for the aileron wire 233 - Tie the wire to the servo lead 234 - Pull the servo lead to the rear 235 - Cut a horn slot and temporarily install the aileron. Install a horn to line up with the aileron 236 - Trim off any excess bolt length 237 - Route the second aileron wire 238 - Sand the aileron bay smooth 239 - Connect the aileron to the receiver and center it 240 - Clean the servo with alcohol 241 - Apply double sided tape to the aileron 242 - Install the servo in th bay 243 - Install the second aileron horn 244 - Make two aileron pushrods to the dimensions as shown 245 - Install a pushrod on the Aileron 246 - Both pushrods are shown installed 247 - Use some scrap 1/32" ply to make the servo Aileron bay covers. They should be cut to 2" x 1 3/4" in size 248 - Apply thin CA to both sides of each cover ath the ends that will be drilled for mounting 249 - Use the covering you saved from the horizontal stab to cover the Aileron covers. Both panels can be covered with the left over scrap 250 - The panels shown covered and drilled with a 3/32" bit for #2 screws. Drill Matching holes in the fuselage with a 1/6" drill bit using the panel as a guide. Reinforce fuselage holes with a couple drops of CyA 251 - Use button head screws to install the panels 252 - The second cover panel should be installed 253 - The panel should sit flush to the bottom 254 - Panel installation is now completed 255 - Side view of the panels 256 - If you plan on using a U-BEC, installa small set of power wires and micro Deans as shown 257 - Heatshrink the connectors and connect the main wires, then use heat shrink to cover them 258 - A U-BEC was used, as my ESC was an Opto version, requiring external power for the receiver. Solder micro Deans on the U-BEC 259 - Plug in the wire harness and cover it with heatshrink so it doesn't pull apart 260 - Install double sided, double thick servo tape for the U-BEC 261 - Install the U-BEC and plug it in the receiver 262 - A Y-Connector is required for the Aileron servo's connection. You can either purchase a connector or make one as shown 263 - Splice, solder and heat shrink the wires 264 - Cover the center with heat shrink 265 - Install all connectors in the receiver 266 - Strip the power wires in the battery area 267 - Solder a Deans Ultra Connector to the leads 268 - Push on the heat shrink 269 - Shrink the tubing to complete the power wiring 270 - I used a Hacker 77 Opto ESC and programmed it for the HET 2W-20 motor and 4S Lipo pack. Settings are as follows for the benefit of those that use this ESC: Type- AIRPLANE Controller Type- M-77-O Brake- OFF Timing- 18 DEGREES Frequency- 16KHZ Accelleration- MEDIUM Accumulator Type- Li-Ion/LiPo1 Number of Cells- 4 LiIo/Po Lipo Cutoff V Per Cell- 3.1 Cut Off- SLOW DOWN Initial Point- AUTOMATIC End Point- AUTOMATIC Throttle Curve- LINEAR Rotation- LEFT Timing Monitor- ON 271 - Set aileron throws to 12mm 272 - Set elevator throw to 10mm Up 273 - Set elevator throw to 5mm down 274 - Set CG to 67-70mm behind the root tip of the wing 275 - Trim the ends of the canopy 276 - Mark the bottom lip of the canopy and trim it 277 - Place the canopy on the center of the fuselage, even on both sides 278 - Use tape or a marker to evenly lay a curve on the canopy front, and to mark the sides and rear for final trimming 279 - Use trim tape to mark the final shape of the fuselage 280 - Cut the canopy along the inside of the tape or marker line 281 - Canopy is ready for installation 282 - Canopy is shown fitted to the fuselage 283 - Lightly sand the areas to be painted to a dull finish 284 - Trim tape the inside window edges 285 - Mask off the window area 286 - Use a couple light coats of paint 287 - Remove the tape from the canopy. you can screw it on, use velcro or build a cockpit deck 288 - Clean out the bungee hook hole 289 - Rough up the first 1/2" of the hook 290 - Apply epoxy to the hook hole with a toothpick and install the hook 291 - Clean up excess epoxy with alcohol 292 - Bungee hook installation is completed 293 - Model with 4S electronics weighs in around 33oz without batteries 294 - The basic F-20 is shown completed 295 - Hinge the canopy to the side of the fuselage with masking tape 296 - Use a marker on the inside of the canopy to make a line showing where it sits flush to the deck 297 - Trim the canopy on both sides at the line 298 - Use a piece of 1/8" balsa for the cockpit 299 - Carve a piece of balsa for the front deck 300 - Add a 1/16" thick x 1/2" wide strip of balsa sheeting to make an overhang for the instrument panel 301 - Remove balsa for the HUD 302 - Make the keypad plate and HUD rails as shown 303 - Cut a hole for the cockpit area 304 - Use 3/32" balsa to frame up the area. Be sure it is not too wide and clears the fuselage opening 305 - Add a 1/16" thick balsa floor 306 - Sand the floor flush on all sides 307 - I have a roll of thin, stick back copper sheeting, 2" wide. Use a similar material to make a seat cushion . A small thin steel rule can be used to make cushion marks 308 - Apply the cushion to the seat and form it around the corners to shape 309 - Detail the rear of your cockpit area 310 - Paint the interior as shown 311 - Make an ejection seat pull from a piece of yellow wire. Stripe it with paint or a marker 312 - Make a label for the instrument panel 313 - Glue a piece of black card stock from a department store arts area over the deck as shown 314 - Add a front hook to bottom of the cockpit. The 1/4" balsa hooks under the front deck of the fuselage 315 - A front view shows the width of the 1/4" balsa hook 316 - Make a joystick carved to shape froma balsa stick 317 - Apply your decals to the cockpit area 318 - USe this photo as a reference when detailing the cockpit 319 - This is a photo of a real F-20 cockpit. Use it to as details as desired 320 - Cockpit Walk Around - Pic 1 321 - Cockpit Walk Around - Pic 2 322 - Cockpit Walk Around - Pic 3 323 - Cockpit Walk Around - Pic 4 324 - Cockpit Walk Around - Pic 5 325 - Cockpit Walk Around - Pic 6 326 - Cockpit Walk Around - Pic 7 327 - Instrument Panel Walk Around - Pic 1 328 - Instrument Panel Walk Around - Pic 1 329 - Instrument Panel Walk Around - Pic 1 330 - Install your cockpit in the fuselage 331 - Rear view of the installed cockpit 332 - Since I didn't have the sheets of decal printed on clear peal like you will receive from the mfgr, I had to make my own. Cut the F-20 out and apply it 333 - Use tape to keep individual letters in alignment 334 - Place masking tape across the bottom to apply the decals straight and even on both sides 335 - Apply your rear decals as shown 336 - Mask off the top deck and paint it semi flat black. Flat black tends to crack, so semi flat is a better choice. You can use a couple light coats of dull-coat to flatten out the color 337 - Use the cockpit when masking to insure the tape lines up with the cockpit 338 - Side view shows the cockpit with paint and decals 339 - Your model should have all decals applied as shown 340 - The F-20 Tigershark is shown with detailing completed 341 - The F-20 is huge in size compared to the HET-RC FA-18 342 - There are many ways to make a battery tray and this is just one of them. Note that this method will add about 2 oz in weight. Cut two 1/8" planks of balsa and glue them in on each side of the center spar to raise the deck. Shorten the The hook block about 3/32" with a cutting wheel; you can see where the newly installed balsa planks were carved out to make room for velcro straps 343 - Make a battery tray from 1/8" plywood...you could probably shorten the front by 2" from my pics to save some weight. Velcro is applied to the battery packs and the plate bottom as shown, while the straps hold the packs down to the plate 344 - Epoxy the plate in place as shown. the battery may have to recess into the rear opening for proper balancing 345 - Carve the former flush for the battery 346 - Apply velcro to your battery 347 - I used two 2S Lipos that were sandwiched to the velcro 348 - Use a Y-connector of you use 2S packs. It is recommend you use sufficient packs for your power requirements. These Kokam 3200's were rated at 64 amps 349 - Install the battery in place. Note that if you make one of these trays, it should be made shorter at the front and extend slightly into the rear for less weight and better balancing. This one was a test tray, so it would be different if done again. Also note the two black lines on each side of the velcro pad at the bottom. This was a marker to place the packs so CG would be at 67mm 350 - Top view of the pack is shown 351 - Paint and glue your canopy on the cockpit using RC-56 canopy glue. Use tape to hold it in place until the glue sets 352 - Remove the tape and check the fit 353 - Check the balance on your model 354 - The HET-RC F-20 Tigershark EDF Jet This Website and all documents herin are Copyright © 2012 www.scalerocketry.com - All rights reserved.