HET-RC F-16 Falcon Build Instructions

01 - The F-16 as it arrives well packed from Markos at Warbirds-RC 02 - The model is double boxed and all parts are wrapped for protection 03 - The HET-RC F-16 Falcon ARF Minifan 480 Jet out of the box 04 - The major components of the model. It is very similar to the HET-RC FA-18 in construction and covering 05 - Front view of cockpit area. The glass work is very well done 06 - Rear view showing pre-installed Fiberglass Intake and formers 07 - Construction: Sand the wing saddle on the fuselage for good glue purchase 08 - Five Minute Epoxy is applied in the wing spar hole using a cut down mixing stick to fit the slot 09 - Next, insert a wing spar until it bottoms out in the slot 10 - Spar shown installed 11 - Clean up excess epoxy with some paper towels and denatured alcohol 12 - Spar installation shown completed 13 - There is a left and right wing. The side with less curve is the bottom, so mark them "left" and "right" 14 - The wing is placed over the spar and adjusted so it is centered in the rear and the front of the fuselage. This will adjust the spar to the correct position. Carefully remove the wing and let the spar glue set 15 - The wing shown installed and flush in the front of the fuselage shows a gap at the rear. This will be filled with Epoxy when the wing is mounted 16 - A 1/8" drill bit is used to make some holes in the fuselage. This will allow the epoxy to create "rivots" inside the wing saddle for a stronger joint. Lightly sand after drilling to remove burrs 17 - Fifteen minute Epoxy is applied to the wing root 18 - Fifteen minute Epoxy is applied to the wing root. 19 - The wing is set in place. If you fiberglassed your wing, masking tape is used to keep excess epoxy from adhering to the finished surface. Make sure the wing is centered and the bottom of the wing is flush with the root molding of the fuselage. Keeping the bottom of the wing flush with the bottom of the fuselage will insure correct incidence without any twist for the wing position. 20 - Denatured alcohol is used to remove the excess epoxy 21 - The front of the wing is centered and held in place with masking tape. The rear is centered and held in place with a clamp and left to set 22 - The other wing saddle is sanded for better glue purchase. A small piece of 60 grit sandpaper makes quick work of it, but be careful not to oversand 23 - Epoxy is applied to the spar slot with a cut back mixing stick 24 - Epoxy is applied to the spar and the wing spar is installed until it bottoms out in the slot 25 - Excess glue is cleaned up with denatured alcohol and a paper towel 26 - Spar is installed 27 - Wing is placed in position and centered in the front and back to correctly position the spar, then it is carefully removed before the epoxy sets, then the spar is drilled for rivot holes 28 - Epoxy is applied to the wing root 29 - Next epoxy is applied to the fuselage wing saddle and spar 30 - The wing is installed on the saddle and centered. Excess epoxy is removed with denatured alcohol and a paper towel. Then tape is used to keep the front of the wing centered and the bottom of the wing flush to the fuselage root while a clamp keeps the rear centered until the epoxy sets 31 - Epoxy is applied to the joint as a fillet. A toothpick is used to apply it and the tape was place on the surfaces to catch the overflow 32 - The excess epoxy is wiped off and overflow lands on the tape 33 - The tape is removed, revealing a clean joint. Repeat and do the same on the other side of the model 34 - Wings are shown installed on the fuselage 35 - Front view of wing installation shows wings with a couple of degrees on anhedral. This was due to the design of the fuselage 36 - The vertical stabilizer area of the fuselage is taped off so sandpaper does not mar the finish 37 - Sand the sides of the saddle with 80-100 grit sandpaper. Be very careful as to not oversand as you could cut through the glass 38 - Side view shows edges sanded and ready for epoxy 39 - The top outside edges were sanded so any excess glue would adhere well and form an internal fillet. While it is not necessary, the entire top of the saddle area was sanded in the pic 40 - Stab area sanded. Be careful to not oversand...if you do, simply apply a coat of epoxy on the inside area of the fuselage to strengthen 41 - Marks were made in order to cut two 1 1/2" long slots in the vertical stab area that are used for both cooling and the receiver antenna 42 - A Dremel with a stone cutting wheel was used to open the slots 43 - A hobby knife is used to clean the corners and remove large burrs 44 - Some 400 grit sandpaper is used to smooth the edges inside and out 45 - The two slots are shown finished. This completes the Vertical Stab pre-assembly 46 - The wood pieces that are needed for Taileron assembly. Make sure you make two opposite/mirrored trays, one for the left and one for the right. The side plates are labeled S for Short and L for Long with the long side facing the front of the fuselage when installed 47 - The two ends of both servo trays were lightly beveled with 400 grit so they could fit in the slots of the side plates 48 - Use a ruler to mark center on the servo tray 49 - Mark both trays with a center line for your servos 50 - The HS65 servos are a perfect fit and were inserted in their tray to mark for drilling. The was some play in the tray, so the servo was pushed flush against the left side, then holes were drawn on both ends. It was then pushed flush to the right side and marks were made again 51 - You can see the two marks made at each end. Draw a line between them for a perfect center 52 - Use a punch to mark where the holes need to be made 53 - Use thin CA to coat each mounting hole area on both sides of the tray. This will prevent cracking and splintering when drilled 54 - The tray is lightly sanded to smooth out the CA glue area 55 - You need a hobby drill smaller than the standard US 1/16" because the servo mounting screws are so small, so I found that a medium hobby push pin would work. Use a hammer and carefully drive it through the tray like a nail, being careful to keep it straight. Remove the pin and insert it in the back side of the tray to open the hole a bit 56 - Photo shows the pin driven through the plate 57 - Servo mounting screws are installed to "cut" threads in the wood 58 - Temporarily install the servo...the screws should match up with the holes and the servo should be centered in the tray 59 - Insert a tray into a side plate. Note that the thin side of the tray faces upward toward the angled side of the plate. Do not push in all the way 60 - Install the other end of a tray into a plate, with the angled side of the plate facing the thin side of the tray. Be sure to use a short plate on one end and a long plate on the other end 61 - Mix some 5 minute epoxy and use a toothpick to roll it into the joint at both ends 62 - Squeeze the plates in place and flush 63 - Remove the excess epoxy that could prevent the servos from sitting flush 64 - Removing the eopxy leaves a very fine fillet 65 - Square up the tray before the epoxy sets 66 - Build the other tray and make sure you make two opposite "mirrored" trays 67 - Once both trays are completed, add a fillet of epoxy to the rear for added strength 68 - Remove the excess epoxy so a nice fillet is made 69 - Servo Tray construction completed and showing fillets at rear side 70 - From the top of the fuselage- The stab block and servo tray are shown near the positions where they will be installed in the fuselage. Note that the block tapers rearward and that the tray has the "Shorter" side to the rear with the thin part of the tray pointing to the top side of the fuselage 71 - The position for the Horizontal Stab rods is 62mm from the rear 72 - When first installed inside the fuselage, the blocks were set too far back and not centered over the mark 73 - A piece of 1/32" ply was cut as a shim to make the block thicker 74 - The shim is epoxied to the bottom of the block 75 - With the addition of the shim, the block is inserted and the photo shows where it now would sit inside the fuselage 76 - The second block shim is added using 5 minute epoxy 77 - Lightly sand the edges to even out the shim with the block sides 78 - A Warning...the manufacturing process left some strands of fiberglass that were sharp as needles and located where the pencil is pointing. If you have these, carefully break them off inside so you do not get cut 79 - A mark is made on the outside of the fuselage at 62mm 80 - A second horizontal mark is made at the center of the fuselage 81 - A 1/8" Drill is used to open the holes at the crosshairs. You may want to use a small bit to make a starter hole first 82 - Masking tape is used to wrap around the block so it can be removed easily later 83 - The block is temporarily installed in the fuselage 84 - Keeping the drill square, make a small mark on the ply inside but do not drill through 85 - The drill mark is shown centered in the block 86 - The other block is installed and marked the same way. Use the masking tape tab to easily remove the block once it is marked 87 - A drill press is used to drill through the block and keep the hole square 88 - A Hinge drilling jig can also be used to drill a square hole 89 - If you do not have a drill press or hinge jig, the the hole can be carefully drilled by hand. Do a little at a time making sure the bit stays square both horizontally and vertically 90 - Trial fit the Elevon Rod and use the drill to open the hole if necessary so the rod moves in and with little effort 91 - Install the block in the fuselage with the angled side toward the top. Do not glue the block in place yet 92 - Make sure the hole is aligned and centered on the markers 93 - Temorarily install a Elevon rod to check the angle 94 - Rod shown in correct position, perpendicular to the fuselage where it exits. Note that the fuselage is molded to include a downward angle on the rod when compared to the wing...this is normal 95 - Two 1/8" wheel collars are required to retain the horizontal stabs. You may have to purchase a set as they were not in the kit 96 - Apply some blue Loktite on the setscrew for the wheel collar 97 - Install the setscrew in the wheel collar 98 - The Horizontal Stabs may need to be ironed to remove wrinkles 99 - The wheel collar is shown installed where it is used to mount the stab 100 - The wheel collar deforms the top of the monokote 101 - the first 1/2" of the Horizontal Stab rod is roughed up with 60 grit 102 - Install the rod in the horizontal stab and lock it in place with the wheel collar. Make sure that the rod extends past the collar and butts against the left wall as shown. Also, note that the side of the rod that was sanded is shown to the right and will be glued into the fuselage block 103 - Apply epoxy inside the hole with a toothpick 104 - Apply epoxy to the top and bottom of the block 105 - Install the block in the fuselage 106 - Install the Horizontal stab into the inner block hole until the root butts against the side of the fuselage. This will keep the block aligned inside. Put your finger inside the fuselage and make sure the block is settled in its location. Hold the stab tight in place with masking tape 107 - Check stab position from the rear to make sure the angle is aligned with the fuselage trailing tip 108 - Epoxy is applied with a toothpick to the second block hole 109 - Epoxy is applied to the top and bottom of the block, then it is installed 110 - Horizontal Stab is installed through the hole and into the block 111 - Masking tape is used to hold the stab flush to the fuselage side. Check your rear angle as you did with the first stab and make sure it aligns with the fuselage trailing edge 112 - Horizontal Stabs shown installed and in place 113 - The stabs have a slight downward angle from the rear, which should be even on both sides 114 - Use a hex wrench to loosen the retaining wheel collar 115 - Remove the stab and wing collar from the fuselage 116 - Horizontal Stab rod installation completed 117 - The fuselage halves were assembled using what appears to be Aeropoxy, as shown by the arrow. This will prevent the servo trays from seating all the way into the fuselage area. It cannot be easily reached to be sanded 118 - Masking tape is applied to the side of the fuselage area and marked for servo cutout 119 - A Dremel with a stone wheel is used to cut out the opening 120 - Opening is shown rough cut. It was very difficult to cut through the Aeropoxy ridge inside. I used a pair of 90 degree long nosed pliers to break through 121 - The opening is filed until the servo can pass through easily 122 - The tape is removed from the opening 123 - The other side is cut with a dremel and corners are cut with a hobby knife 124 - The opening is filed until the servo can pass through easily 125 - A notch is cut in the area where the Aeropoxy seam hits so the tray will sit flush with the outer wall 126 - A slight bevel was added to the tray for easier insertion of the servo 127 - Epoxy is applied to all edges of the tray, both top and bottom 128 - The tray is inserted into the fuselage and placed in position 129 - The tray is shown set in place; make sure it is centered over the cutout you made for the servo. Add fillets of epoxy as necessary 130 - The second tray is prepared for installation 131 - The second tray is installed 132 - Trial fit a servo into the tray 133 - Servo set in place...do not screw in place yet 134 - Push the servo out of its tray from inside and using your radio or a servo tester, center the servo, then temporarily install the horn 135 - Install horn so it is perpendicular to the fuselage 136 - Remove the upper portion of the horn and sand to round it out 137 - A 1/16" drill bit is used to drill the hole that is closest to center 138 - The horn is cut at the second hole and rounded as shown 139 - Install the sevo horn pointed down and centered, then use the servo horn retaining screw to premanently fasten the horn 140 - Perform the same steps to the other servo horn, cutting to length and shaping. Install the horn pointing downward 141 - Install the servo horn retaining screw 142 - The servo is mounted in position using the supplied mounting screws 143 - Slide one of the two washers in the kit over the Stab shaft. This will act like a bearing for the stab and prevent rubbing on the sides of the fuselage 144 - Install the stab and retaining wheel collar 145 - Holding the stab tight against the fuselage, tighten the wheel collar 146 - Install the other washer, stab and wheel collar, then tighten 147 - The ply stab horns that come with the kit are cut wrong, very flimsy and could be dangerous if installed. Do not use these plywood horns 148 - New horns are cut from 1/8" aircraft plywood 149 - Dimensions and shape of the new stronger control horn. If you wish to buy them instead, you can use nylon control horns. Make sure you cut it in the proper grain direction 150 - Shape of old control horn compared to the new one 151 - Strengthen the horn by coating it with thin CA. Do not coat the bottom 3/16" as it will be epoxied in place 152 - Horns are stacked on top of eachother. A hole is drilled for the pushrod, then a 1/8" hole is drilled at the bottom center to clear the stab pivot rod 153 - Matched horns are now ready for final fitting 154 - The horn slot is positioned over the stab rod hole, then the sides are marked to cut to correct length 155 - A slot is cut vertically 1/8" wide and 1/32" from end, just inside the spar cap as shown 156 - A small flat screwdriver is used to clean out the slot 157 - Slot ready for horn install 158 - Horn is epoxied in place. Make sure it stays vertical and does not lean 159 - Epoxy is applied and the second control horn is installed 160 - Excess epoxy cleaned up with denatured alcohol and horn installation is shown completed 161 - A 12" long piece of 2-56 single end threaded pushrod is cut to about 4" in length 162 - A drill is used to ease the installation of the rod in the Ball Clevis 163 - The rod is temporarily installed and a mark is made on the inside for the slot 164 - A mark is made on the outside for the slot 165 - A mark is made on the fuselage 3.5mm from the bottom front 166 - The poshrod is bent as as shown...make sure you make two opposite pushrods of the same shape and bend 167 - A longer 3/4" bolt had to be used, so it was cut flush to the nut 168 - The rod slot is cut out at the marks you made. The back part of the slot (the left side) is flush to the servo tray inner wall and the slot is 7/8" in length 169 - The servo arm screw is removed 170 - Next, the servo arm is removed 171 - The pushrod is fed through the slot and the servo arm is installed on the Z-Bend 172 - The servo arm and screw are re-installed. Make sure the arm is placed back in the same position 173 - Servo at center and fin 3.5mm from bottom mark is shown to the right 174 - Full up travel on servo 175 - Full down on servo...pleanty of travel 176 - The slot for the servo pushrod is cut out on the other side of the fuselage 177 - A hobby knife is used to cut the short ends 178 - Once again, the servo arm is removed, the pushrod is fed through the slot and the servo arm is installed at the Z-Bend 179 - Elevon is installed and tightened in place 180 - Final installation of control arm...the bolt with flat washer is threaded into the control horn 181 - A 2-56 nut is installed to lock the bolt in place 182 - The supplied brass bushing spacer that comes with the ball clevis is installed 183 - The ball clevis is installed on the bolt 184 - The clevis is retained using a nylock nut. Note that final assembly shows the nylock nut on the inside, which allows for easy removal and adjustment of the clevis 185 - Nut is tightened 186 - Pushrod installation on one side shown completed 187 - Bolt is installed in second Elevon control horn 188 - Washer, brass spacer, ball clevis and nylock nut are installed 189 - Pushrod installation completed 190 - The Canopy and supplied wooden dowel are ready to install 191 - Tape the canopy in place so it is even front and back 192 - A 1/16" pilot hole is drilled in the front center 193 - The hole is opened up with a 1/8" drill. It should be centered in the front 194 - Photo shows hole drilled 195 - The wood dowel is rounded at the tip using 100 grit sandpaper. This will ease installation when in use 196 - Pic shows rounded tip 197 - The dowel is installed in the canopy frame with rounded end forward 198 - Pic shows position of dowel 199 - Epoxy is applied to glue the dowel in place 200 - While the epoxy is still wet, install the canopy and keep it centered while the glue sets 201 - Tape is used to hold the canopy in place 202 - Tailcone Installation: Shown are the tailcone ply retention plates and screws 203 - Marks are made on the fuselage for plate location 204 - Marks are made inside for the location of the ply plates 205 - Marks are shown...rough up the inside areas with 60 grit sandpaper 206 - Plywood Plate is installed on a piece of masking tape and epoxy is applied to the facing side 207 - Plate is positioned over the mark and held in place with the tape until the glue sets. This is repeated for all four plates 208 - All plates installed and glue is left to set 209 - All plates installed and glue is left to set 210 - All four plates are shown installed 211 - Marks are made again on outside of fuselage dead center of each plate 212 - The tailcone is installed. Place the best looking side up 213 - Masking tape is used to hold the tailcone in place 214 - Holes are drilled, first with a 1/16" bit, then a 3/32" bit 215 - A mark is made inside the tailcone and fuselage to be used as alignment marks when re-installing the tailcone 216 - Easily thread the screws in the first time as they are cutting threads into the ply plates. Install them until flush 217 - Use denatured alcohol and a paper towel to remove the marks 218 - Tailcone assembly completed 219 - A 1/16" pilot hole is drilled in the center of the vertical stab area 220 - The hole is opened with a 1/4" drill bit 221 - A small rubber grommet is installed for the antenna wire to pass through 222 - The inside of the vertical stab is sanded with 60 grit for better glue purchase 223 - The rear is heavily sanded to try and make it even. The one in the box had a warped bottom cut to the stab 224 - The front also needed sanding but care was taken as to not take off too much. The Vertical Stab is ready to install 225 - Tape is placed around the vertical stab area to keep it clean from epoxy 226 - Epoxy is applied to the vertical stab inside and the fuselage area. Use only 5 minute epoxy! 227 - This is the difficult part. You need to hold the fin in place while the epoxy sets...this is why you need to use 5 minute epoxy. Keep plenty of paper towels and denatured alcohol available, install the fin, squeeze in the sides, then use an alcohol soaked paper towel to clean up the excess and hold in place. Make sure the fin remains vertical. As stated, there is a lot to do, so be sure you know the steps and have it all planned ahead of time 228 - Once the epoxy sets but is still soft, remove the masking tape 229 - A ruler is used to scrape away any excess soft epoxy 230 - If you plan on painting your model, you can use fine sandpaper to lightly sand the fin area. Skip this step if yours is pre-painted 231 - The other side is scraped of soft epoxy 232 - A spot in the fin below did not adhere do to the way the fin was cut 233 - Masking tape was added to minimize the mess and fresh epoxy was scraped under the seam 234 - The excess epoxy is removed 235 - The side is shown being pushed in to indicate the spot that did not adhere 236 - A towel with alcohol was used to clean up the excess epoxy 237 - A ruler is used to hold the side against the molded fuselage former while the epoxy sets 238 - A clamp was used to hold the ruler in place 239 - Vertical Stab installation completed 240 - The Stab should be perpendicular to the fuselage 241 - Tape is once again added to the fuselage around the stab area 242 - A fillet of epoxy is applied with a toothpick 243 - Use your finger to make a nice fillet around the stab 244 - The other side is done 245 - Excess epoxy is removed to form a small fillet. Remove the tape when finished and before the epoxy sets 246 - The HET-RC EDF 6904 Minifan 247 - The components of the HET minifan 248 - The fan comes with the hub molded together as one piece 249 - A HET-RC 2W motor will be used to power the model 250 - The ring that comes with the fan can be placed over the rear. Note that the inner lip will insert into the back of the fan housing. The ring was not used in this build 251 - Motor is test fit in the fan housing and fit well 252 - As you can see, the housing was made for this motor. Note the two kidney shaped slots in the motor and the housing 253 - The motor is installed with the slots aligned with the motor. these will help provide some cooling 254 - Some blue Loktite is applied to the motor threads only and then wiped clean on the surface. Do not apply Loktite to the bolts as it can touch the sides of the mounting holes when installed and attack the plastic 255 - The 3mm x 6mm bolts that came with the fan are installed to retain the motor and tightened using the supplied allen wrench 256 - Photo shows the shaft adapter and how it fits inside the fan unit 257 - The fan comes pre-balanced but was still checked to confirm 258 - The blue spot shows the area that was pre balanced at the factory 259 - The fan and housing prior to installation 260 - Install the shaft adapter first 261 - Next, install the fan unit 262 - Seat the fan flush for now 263 - Install the front hex bolt that retains the fan 264 - Before tightening, pull the fan unit away from the rear of the housing as shown by the pencil so it will not rub 265 - Tighten the bolt with the supplied wrench and check the fan to make sure it is not rubbing on the housing 266 - Make sure the clearance appears even on all fan blades and check for rubbing 267 - The HET-RC 6904 mini Fan Assembled 268 - Connectors are soldered to the motor and ESC. This allows you to swap your motors and ESCs around easier without taking apart your model 269 - Motor ends of the ESC are covered with heatshrink to prevent shorts 270 - Power wires for the ESC also have connectors installed 271 - Power wires to the battery with connectors and heatshrink. Always install so the sockets such as those shown below are coming from the battery source. This way, no matter where you disconnect down the line, you will not risk a short like you would if plugs were substituted 272 - Plug in the three wires of your motor into the ESC sockets. A large piece of heatshrink is then installed over these wires at the plug asssemblies To prevent them from coming apart in the air turbulence 273 - A wire tie is used to secure and anchor the front of the ESC 274 - Fan, Motor and ESC assembly completed and ready to install in the Jet 275 - The instructions call for you to remove the mounting tabs of the fan as seen in the pic 276 - Tabs have been removed 277 - Fine grit sandpaper was wrapped around a dowel and used to smooth the rough spots in the fiberglass exhaust duct 278 - Exhaust duct after sanding 279 - The outside lip of the fan is sanded to round the edge and make it easier to install 280 - Fiberglass duct is temporarily installed to the fan assembly 281 - A servo had to be loosened so the fan and duct could pass by from the rear 282 - Work the fan past the servos 283 - Insert the fan into the forward intake duct. It may seem a bit difficult at first to get it to engage the intake duct. Keeping the bottom of the exhaust duct low enabled it to slide in better 284 - Pic shows duct fully seated in the intake. It will need to be trimmed to length 285 - Keep the Tailcone centered and measure the difference between the mounting holes on the fuselage and the tailcone. This is how far you will need to trim the exhaust duct 286 - A 1" wide strip of paper is wrapped around the exhaust tube and a mark is made at a distance from the end that you measured in the previous step 287 - A cutting tool or knife can be used to trim the exhaust tube. Cut it a bit short of the line so you can fine sand the excess tube to the line 288 - Sand the tube to the line 289 - Drill a hole in the front of the tube at the top location 290 - Open the hole up to about 3/8" for your ESC wires to pass 291 - The hole should be sanded to remove sharp areas 292 - The ESC wires are passed through the hole 293 - Packing tape is used to fasten the exhaust tube to the fan assembly 294 - Fan and exhaust tube shown with wires coming from the top. Notice there is a slight upward angle , which was required to have the exhaust center in the fuselage rear 295 - Tape is used to secure the ESC wires 296 - Temporarily fit the unit in the fuselage. Make sure the exhaust rear is centered in the fuselage. If not, remove the unit, loosen the tape on the fan and re-adjust/tilt slightly until centered 297 - Check the fit of the tailcone. The Exhaust tube may still need some fine trimming 298 - Make a mark on the exhaust tube again for final trimming 299 - Scissors are used to fine trim the exhaust tube 300 - Check the tailcone fit and make sure it is flush 301 - Check for buckling in the exhaust tube and sand more if needed. It should be a nice tight fit 302 - Rear exhaust area of the fuselage shown 303 - The inside of the tailcone is roughed up with 60 grit in the area where the exhaust tube will touch 304 - Lightly rough up the outside of the exhaust tube 305 - Apply a heavy coat of epoxy and quickly install the tailcone 306 - Keep the fuselage vertical so the epoxy runs down to the exhaust tube joint inside. Quickly install the screws so the glue sets while the tailcone is in the correct position 307 - Leave the fuselage in a vertical position until the epoxy sets 308 - Once the epoxy has set, remove the assembly 309 - Photo of the completed Fan Assembly 310 - Some additional epoxy was mixed and poured in the tailcone joint for added strength 311 - The power wires are installed and heatshrink is added 312 - A couple small slices of heatshrink are used to dress the cable 313 - Servo tape is added to the radio receiver 314 - This step is not necessary, but I added a inner lexan thrust tube as it made for a smoother walled exhaust, a more even transition to the tailcone and should provide more efficient airflow 315 - Servo cables are installed in the receiver 316 - The receiver antenna wire is run through the grommet 317 - A nut is taped to the wire to help with routing 318 - The wire nut is installed in the vertical stab area 319 - The nut helps route the wire out the rear of the vertical stab 320 - The receiver is prepared for installation 321 - The receiver is installed on the right side of the fuselage just in front of the servo tray. It is a bit tight, but can be reached 322 - Receiver installed in place 323 - Tape is used to retain the servo wire on the other side 324 - Tape is shown retaining the servo wire so it doesn't snag when the fan assembly is installed 325 - A nut is used to help route the power wires to the front of the fuselage 326 - Install the fan assembly in the fuselage, taking care to route the wires 327 - Keep removing the slack out of the power wires during installation 328 - Set the fan assembly in the forward intake 329 - Installed the tailcone screws to hold the fan assembly in place 330 - Re-install the screws for the servo that was loosened 331 - Fan Assembly installed in fuselage 332 - Trim the excess length from power wires 333 - An Ultra Plug is installed on the power wires 334 - Power plug installation completed 335 - The canopy is trimmed with a pair of scissors 336 - Trim a little at a time and check the fit. Leave enough on the sides for gluing 337 - Use epoxy or canopy glue to mount the canopy to the frame. DO NOT glue the canopy in place if you plan to paint it 338 - Canopy assembly completed 339 - The model comes with magnets for the canopy, but I opted for a more secure mount. Make sure the canopy is centered in the rear and drill a 1/16" pilot hole through the rear of the canopy and into the fuselage 340 - A small piece of wood should be epoxied under the fuselage area for more grip from the screw 341 - A clamp is used to hold the ply plate in place until the glue sets 342 - Only the top section of the canopy is opened with a 1/8" drill and a #2 hex screw is used to secure it 343 - A mark is made at 3.5mm from the bottom of the fuselage and is the center for the Elevons. Adjust the ball links so that they center at this mark 344 - Elevator up is 11mm from the center mark. The same applies for Aileron movement 345 - Elevator down is 11mm from the center mark. The same applies for Aileron movement 346 - The servo openings are covered with a piece of self stick monokote 347 - CG for the model is set at 75mm behind the wing root. Make sure your model balances before flying 348 - Place your battery in the opening and install the canopy. Move the battery around until CG is found. Add a black mark to show the rear location of the battery for the model to balance at CG. A small strip of velcro is used to hold the battery in place. Do not use large strips as you can damage Lipos when removing them 349 - A velcro strap is epoxied to the bottom of the fuselage and actually retains the battery, while the small velcro strip prevents it from shifting around 350 - Battery shown installed in place 351 - Battery retention completed 352 - The bungee hook is roughed up with 60 grit at the end that glues into the fuselage 353 - A mark is made 25mm from the intake seam on the bottom of the fuselage. This is the location of the ply plate for the bungee hook 354 - A 1" strip of paper is anchored with tape flush to the bottom of the fuselage and shown at the bottom, then it is creased at the bottom on the other side 355 - The paper is folded back so it is flush to the bottom of the fuselage 356 - The excess strip is removed 357 - The strip is folded in half, then a pencil is used to mark it at the fold 358 - The strip of paper is taped to the fuselage at each end and a mark is made for the hook at the dead center mark on the paper 359 - A hole is drilled at the mark with a 5/64" drill bit 360 - A toothpick is used to push epoxy into the drilled hole 361 - The hook is installed as shown and the excess epoxy is removed 362 - Bungee hook shown installed 363 - Make sure the hook is pointing rearward and let the epoxy set 364 - The HET-RC F-16 Falcon from Warbirds-RC Just add decals and paint(if necessary) and it's ready to fly! 365 - Paint scheme used was for the F-16 Prototype, making it very visible in the air 366 - Rear View showing decal placement 367 - Top View 368 - The HET-RC F-16 Falcon EDF Jet

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