HET-RC F-104 Thunderchief Build Instructions

The HET-RC F-104 Starfighter Minifan EDF as it comes from Markos at Warbirds-RC Opening the box reveals a well packed and rather long model Every that comes with the ARF is shown Shown is a closeup of the wood and hardware included with the kit The F-104 Starfighter fuselage assembly Mark a Left and Right main spar and install them in each slot in the fuselage Install each wing and check that it is fully seated on the wing saddle. If it will not seat flush against the fuselage, sand the fuselage side of the spar, then take a little off the end of the spar until the wing sits flush With each wing installed, check the trailing edge for alignment and proper incidence. One wing was off in this kit and needed adjusted When sanding the spar, make sure you sand only enough on the inside so that it remains centered from top to bottom in the slot, then perform the remaining sanding at the tip. Use a sanding block to keep each end straight or the wing can rock in its position To adjust the wing, use a small round file to elongate the wing dowel pin hole in the fuselage. Remove a little at a time and check alignment. Continue to elongate until the rear of the wing is centered and runs evenly across the top and bottom of the fuselage wing saddle A properly aligned wing is shown To tighten the dowel in the new hole, drill a small hole above or below the wing depending on which side you had to sand the slot A toothpick is added and allows a snug fit of the dowel pin into the elongated fuselage dowel pin hole With the wing installed, apply some masking tape even with the rear of the wing Sand this area up to the tape to remove paint and allow for better glue purchase The rest of the wing saddle is sanded with 60-100 grit. Be careful not to remove too much, which will weaken the saddle Masking tape is applied around the wing saddles for both wings Trim the tape flush to the gluing surface of the wing saddle Add a fresh piece of masking even with the rear of each wing The wing area is shown ready for epoxy Apply masking tape flush to the end of each wing. This will catch any epoxy spill over and keep the wings clean Drill some 1/8" holes in each wing saddle, spaced about an inch apart and inside the glue area. This will allow rivots to form and add strength to the joint Mix some epoxy and set some of the mix aside, then add some fiberglass mil to thicken the remaining solution. Fifteen minute epoxy was used for each wing installation Apply the regular epoxy to the wing spar slot in one wing Apply epoxy to the spar in the area that will be inserted into the wing Install the spar in the wing and clean up the remaining epoxy. Note that the epoxy may "hydraulic" in the hole, so push and pull the spar a few times to work it in so it is seated flush Use a stick to apply the thickened epoxy mix to the wing saddle Apply regular epoxy to the exposed spar area Apply regular epoxy to the wing spar area Apply regular epoxy to the remainder of the wing in a thin film so it will soak into the spar Install the wing on the spar and flush to the fuselage Use denatured alcohol and paper towels to remove excess epoxy Wing is shown installed. Allow some time for the epoxy to set Drill holes in the second wing saddle as shown Install regular epoxy in the wing spar slot on the fuselage Apply regular epoxy to the spar and install as shown. Make sure it hydraulics and bottoms out so it sits flush inside the fuselage, then clean off the excess Apply thickened epoxy to the remaining wing saddle Use a stick to apply regular epoxy to the exposed wing spar Apply regular epoxy to the wing spar slot and wing spar as shown Install the second wing on the fuselage Remove excess epoxy with alcohol and paper towels Allow the epoxy on the second wing to set Remove the tape from each fuselage saddle and wing Wing installation shown completed Construction begins with wing preparation and installation. Remove the tabs from your servo and place it over each opening. Mark the outer shape and enlarge the opening width Cut forward to the wing spar as shown. A small portion of balsa may need to be removed near the Aileron, but cut to the spar first. Use a mixing stick to push out the foam blocking the servo wire hole You can also use a ruler to remove the foam from the inside The flat of the ruler should be drawn across the balsa surface to remove loose foam and glue Sand the opening smooth with 320 - 400 grit sandpaper Apply a thin coat of CA to create a smooth surface for the servo Once the CA has dried, sand smooth again to a plastic like feel Install the wire through the wing and into the fuselage, then check the fit of the servo Check the aileron servo wire holes and clean with a short piece of rolled up sandpaper if necessary. Install the aileron servos and make sure that the horn is spaced far enough away from the wall so it does not rub. Remove the servos and set them aside Measure the opening of the servo well and add 1/4" overhang to each of the four sides Make some servo hatches by cutting two pieces of 1/32" ply to the dimensions you just measured Apply a drop of thin CA to the bottom corners of each hatch, then sand smooth once dried Apply CA to the top of each hatch and allow it to soak in, then sand them to a plastic like finish and paint if necessary Stack both hatches and hold them together with masking tape, then drill 1/16" holes at each corner, about 1/8" in from the sides Use tape to mark the location where the hatches must be placed so they overlap the opening about 1/4" on each of the four sides. Drill 1/16" holes into the wing using the previously drilled holes in the ply as guides Mark on the inside one hatch for the left and one for the right and also draw an arrow on each hatch to show forward placement Open up the holes on both hatches with a 3/32" drill. Sand the surface of the holes smooth if necessary Clean the mounting surface of each wing servo with Acetone. HS-81MG metal gear servos were used for the Ailerons Connect each servo to a receiver or servo tester and use a horn to make sure the servos are centered Remove each horn, then cut away the unused side of each horn Install the horn on each servo and make a left and a right assembly. Install each servo temporarily in the wing and make sure the horn is centered and pointed straight up. Even though the horns may be centered outside the wing, the servos themselves wind up being tilted downward toward the front of the wing, so you may have to move the horn back toward the Aileron a notch for it to be centered in the well. The servo horns need to be centered in the well or they will not have full range of motion! Cut two pieces of servo tape and install them on the respective bottoms of each servo. Install the horn screw in each servo Run the servo wire for one wing through the hole into the fuselage area Remove the backing from the servo tape, then install the servo in place, making sure the horn has clearance and does not bind on the side of the well opening Position the hatch in place, then slide it upward and mark a 3/16" slot on the hatch for a horn opening With the opening drawn, cut out the ply and use a file and sandpaper to clean up the opening Position the hatch over its mounting holes and check the fit of the horn, then sand as necessary. The opening needs to be about 3/4" long Install the hatch with some #2 button head screws Run the other servo's wires through the opening and into the fuselage Remove the backing from the servo tape Install the servo in place, making sure the horn has clearance and does not bind on the side of the well opening Install the hatch and cut out the slot in the same way you did the first hatch Install the second wing hatch and check for horn clearance. Both hatches are shown installed Measure and mark the center on each of the Aileron hinges Draw a line down the center of each hinge Install each hing into the wing up to the line. Open the slots with a razor if necessary and position the hinges at least 1/2" in from each end Instal an Aileron, making sure there is clearance on both ends. Make sure the hinges remain square in the slots and are not pushed into the fuselage Tilt the Aileron downward so there is enough deflection, then apply thin CA to each hinge from the top and bottom. The CA should wick into the slots Install the second Aileron, making sure there is clearance on both ends Tilt the second Aileron downward so there is enough deflection, then apply thin CA to each hinge from the top and bottom. The CA should wick into the slots Install a clevis on each of the two pushrods and center them on the threads Drill the Aileron servo horn out of necessary so the clevis has a nice and tight fit Install the clevis on a servo horn Install the second clevis on the other servo horn Remove the tape from maufacturing that is holding the hatch in place Remove the bottom hatch Use a piece of tape that is placed parallel to the servo and place the pushrod parallel to the tape Install the horn as shown on the inside of the wire. Use a drill to make a 3/32" hole Install a screw in the servo horn. It is a good idea to pre-thread the servo horn caps by using a screw to cut threads in each cap Install the horn in place as shown Use the pushrod to keep the horn straight, then tack it in place with CA Drill the second hole for the horn screw Install the second screw and check pushrod alignment Install the cap that you pre-threaded in place as shown. Do not overtighten the screws Use tape to align the second pushrod and drill the holes for the second aileron horn Install the screws in the aileron horn Position and install the horn in the Aileron and screw on the cap. Be careful not to overtighten Clamp the end of the Aileron so it is even with the wing Connect a servo to a receiver or servo tester, then center the servo Mark the location of the Aileron horn hole on the pushrod Begin making a Z-Bend at the mark Finish the Z-Bend and trim off the excess pushrod. Clean up the end tip with a grinder Open up the Aileron horn with a drill so the pushrod will fit Install a pushrod on the Aileron horn Clip the clevis in place on the servo horn. A piece of fuel tubing is used as a safety retainer on the clevis Clamp the end of the second Aileron so it is even with the wing Connect a servo to a receiver or servo tester, center the servo, then mark the location of the Aileron horn hole on the pushrod Make another Z-Bend at the end of the pushrod as you did with the first Aileron Drill the Aileron horn and fit the pushrod, then clip the clevis to the second servo horn. Completed Aileron installation is shown Use a grinder to carefully cut the remaining screw threads flush to the plastic cap Do not overheat by cutting to hard or you can deform the cap. Do a little and allow the screw to cool Apply some thick CA to the top of the threads to prevent snagging or cutting Mark center lines down each of the four Elevator hinges Install the Horizontal Stab in the slot from the rear until it is flush with the vertical stab joint IMPORTANT: Make sure the Stab is perpendicular to the vertical stab before proceding. Use a pencil to mark the stab and fuselage at all points where they join and mark both the top and bottom sides Remove the stab and cut just inside the pencil mark to remove the excess covering material. Do this to both the top and bottom Lightly sand inside the pencil marks on the vertical stab where the horizontal stab will reside for a good glue purchase Rough up the top and bottom of the vertical stab slot, taking care not to change the shape of the slots Install the horsizontal stab and measure at the rear both sides to insure it is centered Tape the stab even to the joint to catch excess epoxy Finish by taping the vertical stab above and below the horizintal as shown Place the model on a flat surface and use tape to hold the center in pace Run masking tape over the exhaust tube and slightly forward, then pull tight so the pivots back and the rear is flush with the surface Use a square to rotate the model and adjust the vertical stab so it is perpendicular to the surface Remove the horizontal stab Use 15 minute epoxy so you have enough time to adjust and apply epoxy to the top and bottom of the vertical stab slot, as well as the forward sides of the stab Apply epoxy to the horizontal stab on the forward slot and rear exposed surfaces Install the horzintal stab on the fuselage Clean any excess epoxy with paper towels and alcohol Insure the rear of the stab is centered and the same distance from the vertical stab on both sides Use a ruler and make sure the horizontal stab is parallel. Adjust if necessary before the epoxy sets Horizontal stab sown installed Install the hinges in the horizontal stab up to the center line Cut off the Z-Bend on the pushrod wire, then make a very small loop and a half with needle nose pliers Loop shown, which should be just round enough for the wire to pass through Cut a 2 1/2" piece of wire from the other end and install it in the loop so that 1" protrudes from a side Use soldering flux, good solder such as Deans and a high power gun and solder the joint. Make sure the short wire remains perpendicular to the long wire before the solder hardens Solder joint shown completed Trim the other end so the you have 1" of rod on each side of the joint Cut two 1" pieces of plastic sleve from the pushrod assembly and install them over the wires as shown Box cut and file the rear of the fuselage so it is square Mark the top rear of the vertical stab with a punch Use a 1/16" drill to open a small hole at the marked location Open the hole with a 3/32" drill Install the pushrod sleeve Install the pushrod and test for binding Place the pushrod sleeve across the rounded mount plate. Leave about a 1/4" overhang on one side and make a mark on the sleeve where it meets the other end of the balsa mount Sand the sleeve with 60 grit sandpaper just enough to score it for good glue purchase. Sand from the mark to the 1/4" overhang Install a piece of tape, as shown in blue, sticky side up and about 6" wide Apply epoxy to the rounded edge of the mount Place the mount piece on the tape as shown Apply epoxy to the curved edge of the outer mount balsa plate Starting at one end, leave 1/4" or so of sleeve extending past the mount as shown on the left and use masking tape to anchor it in place Bend the sleeve around the curve Install the outer mount in place, making sure the sleeve is tightly wedged between both plates. Make sure the ends of the plates are aligned with eachother Tape the sleeve down as shown and allow the epoxy to set. You can also cover the assembly with a plastic sheet and block of wood to weight it down and keep it flat Once the epoxy sets, remove the tape from the assembly Trim the long side of the plastic sleeve 2" past the balsa mount as shown Grind the other end of the pushrod to a rounded shape so it doesn't bind when installed inside the sleeve Place a scrap piece of 3/32" balsa over the mount, leaving 1" of open area at the short end as shown Draw and cut out the balsa cover Sand the mount cover even with the mount Apply epoxy to the entire side of the mount as shown. Make sure you apply epoxy to the correct side Apply a thin coat of epoxy to the cover Install the cover on the mount Clamp the assembly together until the epoxy sets Pushrod mount assembly shown completed Slightly bevel the outer flat area so it tapers toward the short end of the sleeve. Test fit it in the inside of the vertical stab and taper until you hae a good fit Apply a thick layer of epoxy to the sleeve side of the mount Make sure the entire mount is covered. Install short end first and make sure the 1/4" of sleeve exits the hole in the top of the vertical stab. It is ok if not all the 1/4" exits Install the plate to the side of the vertical stab as shown. The end of the plate should be recessed about 1/8" inside the stab opening Trim the pushrod sleeve flush to the top of the vertical stab Install the pushrod in the sleeve Install the Elevator and while keeping the pushrod parallel to the stab, trace the outline of the pushrod Use a knife to remove the covering for the pushrod. Re-install the elevator to make sure the cut is centered Center a pushrod sleeve over the removed covering and draw an outline of the sleeve on each side. Cut the drawn slot area halfway down into the stab. DO NOT CUT all the way through to the other side (top of the stab) Use a pick or tool to remove the balsa from each slot as shown Make sure the slot depth is even all the way across each slot. A 3/32" drill makes a good tool for this and be sure to make the slot deep enough to completely recess the sleeves Slots are shown completed Measure and remove the covering about 1/4" away from the slot on each side, as well as the ends Covering shown removed Cut a piece of 1/64" or 1/32" ply plate to cover the opening Tape the plate temporarily in place Turn the elevator over and draw the slot opening on the ply plate Draw the back of the slot at the rear Remove the plate and use a tool or knife to cut out the slot Install the plate and sand even with the slot opening Install the Elevator to the stab Flex the Elevator downward at lease 15mm and use thin CA to glue the Elevator in place. Be sure to glue from both the top and bottom Install the poshrod sleeves on the poshrod Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the ply plate. Make sure you apply epoxy to the correct side Tape off the edges of the plate area and apply epoxy to the slots Press the pushrod sleeves into the slots as shown Install the ply plate and clean up any excess epoxy with alcohol Clamp the plate in place until the epoxy sets Elevator installation completed Trim a horn for your servo so that one arm and two holes are showing Center the servo, using a servo tester or receiver Install the arm as shown, centered on the servo Use some scrap 1/4" x 3/8" pieces of hardwood and cut them to fit the sides of the servo Hardwood shown cut to size Drill the horn hole with a 1/16" bit Install a Sullivan #550 pushrod connector in the horn Apply Loktite to the connector threads Install the nut snug, but loose enough for the connector to spin. Apply a drop of CA to the threads to hold the nut in place The connector comes with a retaining bolt, but it is too long. You can instead use a 4-40 set screw from a bag of small wheel collars to secure the pushrod. Apply Loktite to the set screw Apply Loktite to the connector retainer threads and install the set screw Slide the pushrod through the connector and position the servo. Move the horn all the way toward the red pushrod sleeve and position so there is still clearance as shown Make sure the pushrod is centered over the vertical stab opening and mark the sides of the servo Rough up the servo area with 60 grit sandpaper, sanding about 3/4" past each line Apply fifve minute epoxy to the bottom of the long hardwood block Hold the servo in place and install the hardwood block. Make sure the servo is held square until the epoxy sets Apply epoxy to a piece of 1/2" triangle Install the triangle against the hardwood block as shown Install triangle stock to the short hardwood block Remove the pushrod from the servo and use a piece of tape to hold the sevo in place Apply epoxy to the the smaller hardwood block and use a knife to install it against the side of the servo Remove the servo and install a couple pieces of servo tape in the center to build up the area that will be against the curved side of the fuselage. Apply an ample ammount of clear silicon to the top and bottom of the servo Install the servo between both blocks and apply a bead of silicon across the top of each block where it meets the servo Hook up your receiver or servo tester once again and center the servo Clamp the Elevator so it is in a neutral position Cut the pushrod to length at least 1/4" past the end of the horn connector Unplug the servo from the tester, move the arm to the right and install the pushrod. Center the servo once more with your receiver or tester Use an allen wrench to tighten the setscrew on the horn connector Elevator Servo installation completed Install 3.5mm connectors on your motor leads. Always use plugs on the non-power side Install heatshrink over the plugs Apply Loktite ONLY to the motor threads as shown and wipe up all excess. DO NOT get Loktite on the plastic parts or it will disintegrate them. You can also use Green Loktite, which is plastic safe Install the motor into the fan shroud (HET-RC 6904 Ducted Fan shown). If you are using a HET-RC motor, you can use three bolts for the installation. Do not tighten the bolts Slide the heatsink (supplied with HET-RC Fan) lip end first, over the rear of the motor, then apply a few drops of CA to the inner lip and install it flush inside the shroud. The heatsink will help center the motor Tighten the motor mount bolts Install the fan adapter over the motor shaft Make sure the fan is balanced. HET-RC 6904 Fans come pre-balanced, but check them anyway and balance if necessary. See installation instructions for your fan or find them at www.warbirds-rc.com Apply some Loktite to the center adapter shaft Install the Fan over the adapter shaft Install the fan retaining bolt Tighten the retaining bolt, making sure there is at least 1/16" clearance between the rear of the fan and the front of the shroud motor mount area. Check for free movement once tightened Fan assembly completed Plug the three ESC wires into the motor and use a piece of large heatshrik to keep them from pulling apart. Dress up the assembly with tie wraps Two feet of 12ga Deans wire was used and sockets for the ESC power wires were installed at one end Install a Deans Ultra Plug at the other end of the wires. Note the orientation of the black and red wires Make marks on the wire harness at 8" and 16" away from the power plug end Make a cut at each mark with a razor, cutting only through the rubber insulation Make a second cut about 1/8" past the first Using the first wire for reference, make two similar cuts to the other wire Cuts shown completed, showing bare wire. Make similar cuts at the 16" marks Use Rosin and solder to tin each wire Install some small heatshring on two leads of a 470uf Electrolytic capacitors, available at Radio Shack, part # 272-1030 Make sure you install the negative lead with the Black stripe and "-" mark to the Black power wire. Failure to do so will ruin your Cap and could damage the electronics. Solder the leads at the 8" mark by applying rosin, then an ample ammount of solder Slide a couple of 3/4" long pieces of heatshrik over the exposed leads Capacitor shown installed. This will reduce damaging noise levels caused by long lead lengths from feeding back into the electronics Prepare the second capacitor for installation by installing some 3/8" pieces of heatshrink to the leads Once again, apply an ample ammount of rosin with a toothpick to each joint, then solder the wire. Check the back of the wire to make sure it is soldered all the way around Install two more pieces of heatshrink over the leads of the second cap Wire harness assembly shown completed Tape up the ESC ends of the wire harness Tape the harness to a long piece of small metal rod or carbon fiber strip and install the strip through the front cockpit area and back along the bottom of the fuselage Pull the rod through the motor area, working the harness to the back Tape the harness ESC wires to the side of the fuselage for now so they don't get pushed forward The Battery leads are shown in the correct position under the cockpit area Slide some heat shrink over the Aileron servo leads Connect the Aileron leads to a "Y" harness Seal the heatshrink around the servo plugs so they cannot be pulled out by accident Use a tie wrap to gather up the excess Elevator servo leads if necessary Apply a couple layers of servo tape to the bottom of your receiver. Be sure to use a full range, high quality receiver for this model Remove the backing from the tape and install the receiver on the side of the fuselage If you are using a power configuration and require the use of an external BEC, apply servo tape to the bottom of your BEC unit or receiver battery pack. A 400mah NiMH receiver pack is shown Remove the backing fom the servo tape The Battery or BEC is positioned in the bottom center of the fuselage, just behind the intake's fan lip Closeup of BEC location NOTE: Antenna placement may differ on your model depending on the type of receiver you use. ALWAYS range check before flying. Drill a 1/8" hole between the vertical stab and exhaust, centered on the bottom of the stab tail Install a piece of antenna tube in the hole that was drilled Extend the tube into the fuselage about 1/4" past the inside wall and make a mark on the outside about 1/8" past the exhaust as shown Cut the antenna tube to length Rough up the bottom side of the tube that will be glued with 60 grit sandpaper Apply a bead of epoxy along the sanded bottom of the antenna tube Install the tube in the fuselage. A toothpick makes a good tool to ease installation Center the tube over the vertical stab tail, then tape the toothpick down to hold the antenna tube in place until the epoxy sets Cut a 1/2" length of fuel tubing and insert a push pin through the center Use the pin to guide your receiver antenna through the first side, then make a small slit on the other side and pull the antenna through Install your antenna through the tubing and out the rear of the model. Leave some slack inside for strain relief of the antenna by moving the fuel tubing down the wire The end of the fan unit needs built up as there is a lot of play when inserted into the intake. Use several layers of tape as shown to build up a 3/8" wide lip on the front of the fan. 6-7 layers were required for a tight fit Install the rear of the fan asembly in the fuselage. Check for a tight fit and add tape as necessary A piece of packing tape is used to help hold the fan, although it should be fitted tight by the previous steps Use the pattern in the book to cut the Exhaust tubing from the clear sheeting supplied in the kit. Cut the entire width of the sheet, extending the curve to the edges and do not remove any length from the tube material Use masking tape to adjust the shape of the tube. Make sure the large end fits snugly over the fan and the tail should be tapered to around 53-55mm in diameter With the masking in place, cut a 1" wide strip of packing tape and install it at the seam inside the tube as shown. Use a burninshing tool to rub the tape down along the entire inside length of the tube Remove the masking from the outside of the tubing Clean any marks you made with alcohol Tape the tube , seam side up, to a hard surface as shown Apply a 1" wide strip down the center of the outer seam of the tube Use a burnishing tool to press the tape down the entire length of the seam Use two large 3/8" washers sandwiched between the plastic as a cutting jig to cut a circle near the fan end of the tubing for the ESC wires. Make the hole about 3/4" from the end of the tube Temporarily install the tube over the fan and mark the outside where it exits the fuselage Cut the excess tail material from the tube Install the tubing in the fuselage. Fold it first as shown for easier installaion Run the wires of your ESC through the hole cut in the thrust tube Install the tube over the fan unit, then use a 3/4" wide strip of packing tape to secure it Connect the two ESC power wires to the harness, then use heat shrink to hold them in place. Plug the ESC control wire into the receiver Power assembly installation completed Install the cover over the fan compartment. A couple strips of clear tape can be used to insure it holds in place Basic fuselage assembly is completed Gather the parts from the kit that you will need to assemble the cockpit The larger piece was badly warped A new piece was drawn and cut from a scrap sheet of ply Stack the two pieces and sand the new piece until it is even with the original Install the two end pieces into the cockpit frame and check for fit Cover the cockpit area with thin plastic wrap Install the cockpit frame, making sure it is centered at the front and back. Tape the frame in place Apply epoxy to the small forward ply piece Install the piece in place as shown. Use a toothpick to apply a small fillet of epoxy at the joint for strength Apply epoxy to the rear ply piece Install the piece in place and tape it flush to the rear of the cockpit area. Allow the epoxy to set Drill the center of the front cockpit wall with a 1/8" bit Install and center the cockpit frame, then use tape to hold it in place and use a hand drill to continue the hole through the front plate to the fuselage Round one end of the supplied wood dowel so it will more readily install in the fuselage Epoxy the dowel in the hole, applying epoxy only to the wood frame and dowel and not the fiberglass fuselage Add a small fillet of epoxy around the dowel pin Cut the ends off the canopy. Trim as little as possible to remove the end caps Use a punch to make a center mark in the rear of the cockpit frame as shown Drill through the frame and fuselage with a 1/8" bit Make a pin 1/2" long from a piece of scrap 1/8" diameter wood dowel and round one end Install the pin as shown, leaving a little bit of the pin exposed at the top. Add a fillet of epoxy around the dowel pin. This pin will be used to insure the rear of the cockpit is centered when installed Center the canopy on the front of the fuselage, making sure the window frame is centered and the side windows are the same distance from the cockpit frame. Tape the canopy in place as shown Use some vinyl trim tape on the canopy to mark a cutting point that is flush with the firewall Cut along the tape and remove the excess material Lightly sand the canopy front so it is a perfect fit, then tape it's edge flush to the fuselage firewall. Center and secure the rear of the canopy with masking tape Using the same method, mark the rear of the canopy with vinyl tape, then remove and trim it. Check the fit on the fuselage Apply some clear packing tape, then masking tape to the sides, front and back of the fuselage Sand the sides so they match the inward taper of the fuselage Draw a edge mark with the back of a pencil along both sides of the cockpit frame. Lightly sand to the line so the edges of the frame will be slightly recessed Sanding the sides will leave a small lip at the fuselage joint as shown. This recess allows the canopy to sit flush with the sides of the fuselage Center the canopy an tape it down at the front and back. Use vinyl tape along the edges to mark a cut at the fuselage shelf Remove the canopy and cut the canopy at the mark. You may have to repeat until you have a good fit Canopy fitting completed. Detail the cockpit as desired Appl masking tape along the bottom of the cockpit frame as shown Apply canopy glue to both sides of the cockpit frame Position the canopy, holding it tight to the frame, then fold the masking tape up to hold the canopy in place while the glue dries Apply CA to the rear corners of the cockpit frame on both the top and bottom sides Position a magnet as shown and mark its location with a pencil. Repeat for the other corner Drill the holes with a 1/4" drill or forstner bit Carefully enlarge the holes with a dremel and router bit. Do not over-enlarge Place the frame on the fuselage and transfer the hole locations to the fuselage with a pencil Drill the hole with a 1/4" bit or forstner. Open the holes so the magnets fit tightly. cut a piece of 1/32" ply 1/2" wide and to a length equal to the width of the fuselage rear. This will be used to support the magnets Apply Epoxy to the ply and install it in place Clamp the plate and before the epoxy sets, install two magnets in the holes so they are flush with the top of the fuselage Apply masking tape to the bottom of the cockpit frame IMPORTANT: Check the position of the two top magnets so they attract rather than repel from the magnets in the fuselage. They must be mounted on the correct side. Rough up the opposite side of each magnet Press the magnets into the frame holes IN THE CORRECT DIRECTION so they are flush with the tape on the bottom of the frame Apply Epoxy to the hole filling the well and allow the glue to set Apply a piece of masking tape to the bottom of the fuselage even with the front lip of both intakes The block inside the fuselage for the tow hook is shown Measure and make a mark 1/4" behind the tape at the center seam of the fuselage Drill the hole with a small drill for the towhook Rough up with 60 grit sandpaper the towhook on the side that inserts into the fuselage Apply epoxy to the towhook and hole in the fuselage Install the towhook and clean up any excess epoxy with alcohol. Make sure the hook is pointing straight back Mark the CG location at 52mm back from the leading edge of each wing as shown Install the retainer strap in the supplied battery tray as shown. Some Epoxy can be applied along the the bottom side edges of the straps to make sure it does not pull apart Add a long strip of Velcro to the entire length of the battery tray. Also apply a couple squares of Velcro cloth to the battery itself. This method allows re-positioning of the battery for CG and prevents the battery from slipping backward, which is what happens if the straps are used without Velcro added to the tray Install the battery and tray in the fuselage Move the assembly forward or backward until CG is achieved, then mark the front location of the tray with masking tape Remove the battery and position the tray to the tape's edge, then apply epoxy along the edges of the battery tray, gluing it permanently in position Adjust Elevator throws to 15mm UP Adjust Elevator throws to 10mm DOWN and set Expo at 60% for a starting point if desired Adjust Aileron throws to 12mm up and 6mm down F-104 Top View F-104 Side View The HET-RC F-104 Starfighter EDF Jet This Website and all documents herin are Copyright © 2012 www.scalerocketry.com - All rights reserved.